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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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Default Engine Pull Questions

I'm getting ready to pull the engine (L79) and transmission (muncie) as a unit. I have a "tilter" that should make the job a little easier. I've removed the radiator and shroud, but still have a few questions:

1. Do I need to drain the oil?
2. Do I need to take the water pump off?
3. Do I need to take off the crankshaft pulley?

I'd like to do as little as possible so things go back together as quickly as possible. Thanks for the help!

Tom
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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no,no,no
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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I removed my L76 with all the stuff still in place. I removed the carb only. The only issue I ran into was the engine crane's reach. The center of the engine is pretty far back from the nose. Make sure the hydraulic cylinder on your engine crane doesn't lean against the car's nose.

I used a tilter also. I needed to adjust it as the engine came out. It will be at a pretty steep angle and you need to get the engine/trans combination pretty high. Make sure you don't have the engine crane too close to the intake manifold. When you tilt the engine, the crane may contact the front of the engine if the chains are too short.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 04:54 PM
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dont forget beer...cold beer..real cold beer
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 05:13 PM
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I'd remove the distributor.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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Thanks, guys . . . just as I suspected. John . . . Distributor is out!

Tom
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Austin
I'm getting ready to pull the engine (L79) and transmission (muncie) as a unit. I have a "tilter" that should make the job a little easier. I've removed the radiator and shroud, but still have a few questions:

1. Do I need to drain the oil?
2. Do I need to take the water pump off?
3. Do I need to take off the crankshaft pulley?

I'd like to do as little as possible so things go back together as quickly as possible. Thanks for the help!

Tom
Tom,

I always have pulled the fuel pump...two bolts, 10 minutes and it's out. You may ask why? The pump is next to the right upper a-arm. When you start picking the engine up, moving it forward more times than not the pump will contact the a-arm. By pulling the pump you get 3 to 4 inches of wiggle room to pull up and out. Just a thought.

RestoMike
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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RestoMike,

Yep . . . planning on pulling the fuel pump as well! Thanks, guys!

Tom
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
dont forget beer...cold beer..real cold beer
After you pull the motor.

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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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The only thing I remove is the distributor, fan and clutch. Removing engine with a helper, those other items do not need pulling. I put mine back in the same way. Assembled!

Last edited by MiguelsC2; Jul 16, 2011 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Subfixer
I removed my L76 with all the stuff still in place. I removed the carb only. The only issue I ran into was the engine crane's reach. The center of the engine is pretty far back from the nose. Make sure the hydraulic cylinder on your engine crane doesn't lean against the car's nose.
Seems the newer cranes have short arms, kinda made for FWD cars. If you have an old school or more heavy duty crane it should be ok.

My son's cheapie "Big Red" Pep Boy crane made me have to pull and install his BB side saddle

Have a REAL one at the shop
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Subfixer
The center of the engine is pretty far back from the nose. Make sure the hydraulic cylinder on your engine crane doesn't lean against the car's nose.

I used a folded up bath towel on the nose. Gives a nice 3-4 inch cushion.

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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 08:24 PM
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The plan is to take it out the passenger side. . . may not have enough room in the garage to pull it from the front! May be a little trickier!
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 10:05 AM
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Going in from the side is going to be tough with the trans attached unless your lift rolls easy side-to-side. If car is facing front of garage having the door open should leave plenty of room.

larry
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Austin
The plan is to take it out the passenger side. . . may not have enough room in the garage to pull it from the front! May be a little trickier!

I've never heard of anyone doing it from the side. I would push the car outside and do it from the front. I would also drain the transmission oil. When the motor/trans is tilted up and the driveshaft is out the trans oil can come out of the rear of the trans.

Dave
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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Put a plug in the Muncie tailshaft housing?
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 11:41 AM
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yes put a plug in the output side...the stores will have em, same as a TH350

if you must do it side saddle...I would oil the wheels and casters of the hoist first, not real easy pushing that way!

Some garages have a step at the front..so hoist wheels might hit there
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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My cherry picker boom reach came up about 10 inches short to do an engine pull from the front. Had to come in from the side. A little inconvenient but not too bad.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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Default How much boom length do I need?

If my boom will drop the lift chain onto the carb's center, is that enough?

Or, is there some other pre-check to see if you can go from the front?
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 12:57 PM
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All good points - thanks, guys! My engine hoist is an older one with a long reach, and casters . . .should work pretty wee (I hope).

I'm surprised that nobody has asked why the engine/transmission is coming out? For inquiring minds . . . check out my album!

Tom
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