My old chrome gun style pre-induction style, you know, with the spring thing that goes on the plug, finnally died after 20+ years of service. So I go out and buy a midline (black plastic gun, probably Chinese) one for 70$at a HF style place, but it doesn't work! A couple of flashes then nothing. Maybe the heavy silicone wires are too thick, I don't know. So it's going back.
Has anyone replaced the xeon (sp?) bulb/tube successfully? Can you even buy them? What are you gents using?

Two steps forward, one step back, and on, and on.....

 

I borrowed a buddies sears adjustable timing light and immediately melted the wiring across the exhaust manifold. checked out price of wires from sears, it was about $42, and a new base light was $48....adjustable light was more like $75, but used same wiring. Went to flea market, bought a good used light with good wire for $15. Put the wire on buddies light, gave it back to him, and I then used the $15 light with the melted wires for a few years.
recently hit one of the sears sales and got an adjustable light for only $40, but it's one of the plastic chicom ones, don't know if it will last long or not.

You're probably just as well off getting one of the old type at a flea market and throw the dice.

 

Beware that the adjustable advance lights are not necessarily accurate. I have an Actron CP7528 (Inductive pickup with the advance dial). I compared it's readings with a distributor on my Sun Machine, to check it's accuracy (firing a separate ignition coil to fire the Actron strobe/circuit).

The Actron readings showed a consistent 2 degrees of error at all positions above zero, as tested @ both 500 & 1000 dist. RPM on the Sun (1000 & 2000 crank RPM). In other words, 2 separate sets of tests.

When the Actron's advance dial was set on "0", Sun agreed "0".
Actron set on 10, Sun read 4 dist. (8 crank).
Actron set on 20, Sun read 9 dist. (18 crank).
Actron set on 30, Sun read 14 dist. (28 crank).
Actron set on 40, Sun read 19 dist. (38 crank).
Actron set on 50, Sun read 24 dist. (48 crank).
Actron set on 60, Sun read 29 dist. (58 crank).

In each case, if I added 2 degrees to the Actron setting as a correction factor, it would fire at the correct point.

Examples:
Actron set at 12 deg. would actually be 10 crank deg.
Actron set at 32 deg. would actually be 30 crank deg.
Actron set at 62 deg. would actually be 60 crank deg.

While I agree that 2 deg. of error is not a lot, it still can matter.

And your results may vary......

I also tested my other 2 timing lights at the same time (both non "advance" type). An older Craftsman Inductive pickup, and a cheap Equus Inductive pickup unit. Both fired at zero, and worked fine at all RPMs.

The Actron was the brightest, and the Equus the dimmest.

Plasticman

 

As Shultz would say...."very interesting" you can't even trust the darn things. Ever repaired one? I'm looking at the smaller hand held ones with one wire, no advance option, and self contained batteries. Nice and simple to use. Anyone familiar with this type.
I remember in the old days having to set the timing at night just to be able to see the damn thing flash! But, at least they worked!

 

I bought one of the cheapos from Harbor Freight - theirs is adjustable which really makes timing a lot easier. I can't speak as to its accuracy but it has worked every time.

 

Got a picture of it, or a HF stock number. I'm curious if it's the same as mine. Does it work on heavy silicone wires?

 

"Cen-Tech" Timing Light Item # 40963

I bought it about a year ago. It was the only adjustable timing light they had. It works on my after market wires but I'm not sure if they are "heavy silicone wires".

 

I've found that most of the thicker wires the inductive pickup has a hard time recognizing the pulse. I have an el cheapo plug wire I keep in the box with my timing light just for this purpose....

Dave

 

Back in the 60s I built a Heathkit xenon flash tube timing light and engine analyzer. Used them for years and then one day it died. Bought a dial back Craftsman unit and have been very happy with it.

 

Thanks guys, the cheap wire trick is a great idea, why the heck didn't I think of that, Dah!

 

I bought an Actron CP7519 dial-back light about ten years ago, and have had no issues with it at all; it checks within one degree of my neighbor's Snap-On light at any rpm level. Actron also makes the Craftsman dial-back light.

 

We just slid a paper clip wire in the boot, that was enough to fire the light.

 

Yup, that looks just like mine.

 

I compared my Snap-on against a xenon cheapie from HF. This was on my MSD ignition. The Snap gave a much steadier and brighter light but was 2° advanced over the xenon light. Knowing this I now adjust for the Snap-on error.

 

How did u determine which one was the correct reading or did u just assume the Snap-on was the correct one?

 

This "Tech Bulletin" from MSD has some interesting info:

MSD TECH BULLETIN #113 ..... In just about any ignition application or installation, synchronizing ignition firing with piston position is done with a timing light. Therefore the timing light becomes critical to ignition performance, because you are basing the ignition system timing on this device. If the vehicle doesn't perform as expected the ignition system might be suspected. The last item considered is the test equipment, your timing light.
There are two reasons why you should check a timing light. The first reason is that many timing lights are not designed to provide accurate readings above 1200 RPM. Then there is the way a timing light is hooked up.
TIMING LIGHT ERROR
Because most do-it-yourself mechanics perform simple tune-ups, they often do not set timing above 2,000 RPM. Therefore, timing light manufacturers are able to make a simpler light no matter how expensive it looks or costs. This simpler light has a trigger delay built in, weak radio frequency noise protection or both. The delay makes little difference at low RPM. However, at higher RPM the timing will seem to retard. Lack of noise protection makes radio
suppression plug wire necessary for accurate readings.
MSD Field Service Technicians have had many calls on timing lights and the timing errors caused by these units. Therefore, realizing the need for a quality timing light, MSD engineers developed the MSD Timing Light, P/N 8990. This new timing light is extremely accurate and provides stable timing signals from 0 to 8,000 rpm. Another timing light that we can recommend is the Sears Penske Craftsman light, P/N A2134. We have tested this light and found it to be accurate and reliable.
HOOK IT UP RIGHT
Sometimes a good light won't read correctly because it's hooked up wrong. Here's what to look for when setting up a timing light.
1...Make sure the power clips are securely
attached to the battery. Do not connect these to
the coil.
2...Keep the power cables away from all spark
plug wires.
3...Connect the trigger clamp to the spark
plug wire (usually cylinder #1).
4...Make sure the #1 cylinder wire is well seperated from the other spark plug wires.
5...Make sure the trigger clamp cable does not pass near any spark plug wires. Again, this will help stop false triggering.
6...Check the position of the trigger clamp. On some timing lights, whether the jaws are up or down will affect the timing readings. With the MSD timing light, clamp position does not matter.
................... Other areas to look for in racing motor timing is
extremely high RPM timing errors. Whatever error exists at low to medium RPM levels is multiplied at higher RPM levels. Attempting to accurately time a racing motor with an imperfect timing light adds up to poor performance.
Another type of timing error can be caused by the use of adjustable timing lights. Using adjusting mechanisms can introduce so much error that any reading above a few hundred RPM may be false.
SUMMARY
Test your light at an electronic tune-up shop before you trust it to set your timing. Tune-up shops with digital engine analyzers provide a good comparison below 2,500 RPM. Assuming your timing light is accurate, make sure your procedure is correct. Having a good light and poor procedure can produce the same result, bogus timing.

 

rwerth7 ""How did u determine which one was the correct reading or did u just assume the Snap-on was the correct one?

A friend who is a professional drag racer who only runs MSD ignitions suggested I do this comparison. I assumed the xenon light was correct as it doesn't have the electronics of the Snap-on. The 2° degrees difference was steady up to 3000 rpm. I confirmed this with my ignition analyzer.

 

Without using a piston stop, and confirming true TDC is correct, none of this matters.

 

The problem with the timing lights is the same as any other gauge,
without a master or standard, calibration will be impossible.
A device that uses a plastic **** on a course printed scale would be considered to be unusable by any measurement lab.

Old saying from the gauge world:
The man with one watch knows what time it is. The man with two watchs is never sure.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EQU-5568/

I like being able to to see the RPMs on the gauge.