Flat Tappet Cam
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Anyhow, thanks for the info. I appreciate everyones input. I am new to this site but belong to the GTO forum which is about the same. Good guys and good info.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
Total myth....as is the nonsense that switching to synthetic oil will cause leaks in your motor.
If you have flakey, seeping, gaskets and other seals it might certainly make them seem worse....but it does not cause leaks...
I use Mobil 1 15W-50W as well and have for about two years now in
the same engine that you have; my solid lifter 283ci sees a lot of road time....and the oil works superbly.
I have installed the spin on adapter to use regular oil filters and use 2-quart truck oil filters from NAPA...this gives close to the same capacity as the old, original canister.
If you have flakey, seeping, gaskets and other seals it might certainly make them seem worse....but it does not cause leaks...
I use Mobil 1 15W-50W as well and have for about two years now in
the same engine that you have; my solid lifter 283ci sees a lot of road time....and the oil works superbly.
I have installed the spin on adapter to use regular oil filters and use 2-quart truck oil filters from NAPA...this gives close to the same capacity as the old, original canister.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Fulton NY
Total myth....as is the nonsense that switching to synthetic oil will cause leaks in your motor.
If you have flakey, seeping, gaskets and other seals it might certainly make them seem worse....but it does not cause leaks...
I use Mobil 1 15W-50W as well and have for about two years now in
the same engine that you have; my solid lifter 283ci sees a lot of road time....and the oil works superbly.
I have installed the spin on adapter to use regular oil filters and use 2-quart truck oil filters from NAPA...this gives close to the same capacity as the old, original canister.
If you have flakey, seeping, gaskets and other seals it might certainly make them seem worse....but it does not cause leaks...
I use Mobil 1 15W-50W as well and have for about two years now in
the same engine that you have; my solid lifter 283ci sees a lot of road time....and the oil works superbly.
I have installed the spin on adapter to use regular oil filters and use 2-quart truck oil filters from NAPA...this gives close to the same capacity as the old, original canister.
The same thing here except I use the #M1-111 Mobil Oil Filter in my '59's "original" 283ci engine (sale price @ Advance Auto: 5-qts w/Mobil-1 filter $32).
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Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,610
Likes: 11
From: Tampa, FL & Harleysville, PA
rustylugnuts
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
I broke in a lot of new engines on Valvoline 30W motor oil, going all the way back to the early '60's. Used it all the way up until '95 when I bought a diesel truck. Truck takes Rotella 15-40 so now, so does all the old stuff for the last 16 years. Change oil/filter every 8-15K miles or ten years, whichever comes first. Never any problems with lubrication. Some of these engines have 150-300K miles on them. Always clean inside the valve cover.
PS. I THINK the old Valvoline oil had about 900 ppm zinc in it for years. Not this magical number of 1300 ppm that some seem to pull out of thin air. Not sure about the Valvoline zinc # but I am sure I never had any premature camshaft wear.
I don't need the $10-$15/quart Joe Gibbs stuff to give me a woody.
Last edited by MikeM; Sep 9, 2011 at 01:43 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,610
Likes: 11
From: Tampa, FL & Harleysville, PA
Total myth....as is the nonsense that switching to synthetic oil will cause leaks in your motor.
If you have flakey, seeping, gaskets and other seals it might certainly make them seem worse....but it does not cause leaks...
I use Mobil 1 15W-50W as well and have for about two years now in
the same engine that you have; my solid lifter 283ci sees a lot of road time....and the oil works superbly.
I have installed the spin on adapter to use regular oil filters and use 2-quart truck oil filters from NAPA...this gives close to the same capacity as the old, original canister.
If you have flakey, seeping, gaskets and other seals it might certainly make them seem worse....but it does not cause leaks...
I use Mobil 1 15W-50W as well and have for about two years now in
the same engine that you have; my solid lifter 283ci sees a lot of road time....and the oil works superbly.
I have installed the spin on adapter to use regular oil filters and use 2-quart truck oil filters from NAPA...this gives close to the same capacity as the old, original canister.
What’s your oil pressure? I use this Moble 1 15w-50 in my diesel truck with 210,000 miles, thought there would be a little more slop to accommodate this weight oil. Also use Moble 1 0w-40 in the BMW 85,000 miles. Joe Gibbs Hot Rod synthetic 10w30 in my 61 fuelie 20,000 miles. Would like to hear your thoughts on this I also drive in Florida.
rustylughuts
Last edited by rustylugnuts; Sep 9, 2011 at 01:57 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,610
Likes: 11
From: Tampa, FL & Harleysville, PA
That is your bottom line, but I had to read it several times before I figured out you didn't really say anything!
I broke in a lot of new engines on Valvoline 30W motor oil, going all the way back to the early '60's. Used it all the way up until '95 when I bought a diesel truck. Truck takes Rotella 15-40 so now, so does all the old stuff for the last 16 years. Change oil/filter every 8-15K miles or ten years, whichever comes first. Never any problems with lubrication. Some of these engines have 150-300K miles on them. Always clean inside the valve cover.
PS. I THINK the old Valvoline oil had about 900 ppm zinc in it for years. Not this magical number of 1300 ppm that some seem to pull out of thin air. Not sure about the Valvoline zinc # but I am sure I never had any premature camshaft wear.
I don't need the $10-$15/quart Joe Gibbs stuff to give me a woody.
I broke in a lot of new engines on Valvoline 30W motor oil, going all the way back to the early '60's. Used it all the way up until '95 when I bought a diesel truck. Truck takes Rotella 15-40 so now, so does all the old stuff for the last 16 years. Change oil/filter every 8-15K miles or ten years, whichever comes first. Never any problems with lubrication. Some of these engines have 150-300K miles on them. Always clean inside the valve cover.
PS. I THINK the old Valvoline oil had about 900 ppm zinc in it for years. Not this magical number of 1300 ppm that some seem to pull out of thin air. Not sure about the Valvoline zinc # but I am sure I never had any premature camshaft wear.
I don't need the $10-$15/quart Joe Gibbs stuff to give me a woody.
Also yes, I do get a woody using Joe Gibbs oil at 9.99 qt. total= $70.00 with quality oil filter. I've spend more than that a week on Avgas!
rustylugnuts
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Why don't you use the 89 octane E10 in your fuelie like I do in mine? $3/qt oil and $3.85 (currently) gas.
Seems you're throwing a lot of money away. $10/quart oil and $6-7/gal gasoline.
PS. Sometime when you get a chance, check around and find out what the JG racing oil ISN"T doing for your engine that standard motor oil does.
Seems you're throwing a lot of money away. $10/quart oil and $6-7/gal gasoline.
PS. Sometime when you get a chance, check around and find out what the JG racing oil ISN"T doing for your engine that standard motor oil does.
Last edited by MikeM; Sep 9, 2011 at 03:12 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,610
Likes: 11
From: Tampa, FL & Harleysville, PA
Why don't you use the 89 octane E10 in your fuelie like I do in mine? $3/qt oil and $3.85 (currently) gas.
Seems you're throwing a lot of money away. $10/quart oil and $6-7/gal gasoline.
PS. Sometime when you get a chance, check around and find out what the JG racing oil ISN"T doing for your engine that standard motor oil does.
Seems you're throwing a lot of money away. $10/quart oil and $6-7/gal gasoline.
PS. Sometime when you get a chance, check around and find out what the JG racing oil ISN"T doing for your engine that standard motor oil does.
What year is your fuelie?
rustylugnuts
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Mike I see you live in Greenville, In. A "little cooler" then Tampa, FL... ha ha ha!!!.... So my fuelie doesn't have vapor lock (percolation) at 98 degrees. Also I have compression ratio between 11.3:1 & 11.7:1 so she runs well @ 50/50 avgas/high-test Oct to May, from June to Sept 100% avgas.
What year is your fuelie?
rustylugnuts
What year is your fuelie?
rustylugnuts
Don't kid yourse;f about the temperature here. We had somewhere around 30-40 days in the 90's here this summer, the last few days of August were 100+.
It sputters a little sometimes on hot restarts but quickly clears out and runs well. Our summer gas has the same vapor pressure as the Tampa gas as far as I know. I don't know what my actual compression ratio is but I decked the block, the heads were previously surfaced and I have the .125 Speed Pro domed pistons in it with the .03? thick head gasket. I also run manifold vacuum advance with the light can as opposed to the OEM venturi vacuum tighter can. 12* initial, 36 total + vacuum, 21mpg.