DJ's Car

Not an issue in itself. Wondered if it was true.

MikeM

He wasn't referring to you.

No, you don't have to keep using synthetic once you start.

rustylugnuts

I was replying to John’s dilemma Sorry! I should have been more explicit.

rustylugnuts

DJ's Car

Yeh, I realized that after I sent the response.

Anyhow, thanks for the info. I appreciate everyones input. I am new to this site but belong to the GTO forum which is about the same. Good guys and good info.

Oz's 59

No that's not true, you could go back anytime but why you would... there's nothing better than synthetic.

Frankie the Fink

Total myth....as is the nonsense that switching to synthetic oil will cause leaks in your motor.

If you have flakey, seeping, gaskets and other seals it might certainly make them seem worse....but it does not cause leaks...
I use Mobil 1 15W-50W as well and have for about two years now in
the same engine that you have; my solid lifter 283ci sees a lot of road time....and the oil works superbly.

I have installed the spin on adapter to use regular oil filters and use 2-quart truck oil filters from NAPA...this gives close to the same capacity as the old, original canister.

Oz's 59

The same thing here except I use the #M1-111 Mobil Oil Filter in my '59's "original" 283ci engine (sale price @ Advance Auto: 5-qts w/Mobil-1 filter $32).

MikeM

There's lots of way to waste money on oil and filters for your engine. Some are described above.

Frankie the Fink

I think $32 for an oil change and filter on an irreplaceable original engine is a flat out bargain. Of course there are those SeaFoam folks....you know who you are!

MikeM

I think at least $12 of that $32 is wasted money, as is changing the oil/filter every 2K miles or once/twice a year regardless of miles and regardless of what engine is in the car. No doubt it gives some, $12 worth of "feelin' warm and fuzzy" so I guess it's worth the extra cash to them. Not me!

rustylugnuts

I don't totally agree, if you look at what quality oil protects, it isn’t really expensive, and if you compare oil costs to what a gallon of gas cost today, and how long that gallon of gas lasts! The expensive oils are not looking so bad anymore. I know most oils give you the same protection against ware, so you say look for the best price, but those oils can and will change over time removing lubricating properties. Why play that game reading the updated ratings hoping that particular oil is the same as it was last year. Select a quality oil (reference to #15 of this thread) that will not ever change its lubricating properties that is designed for our classics to perform and last. The bottom line, use the best oil that protects and gives you ease of mind.

rustylugnuts

MikeM

That is your bottom line, but I had to read it several times before I figured out you didn't really say anything!

I broke in a lot of new engines on Valvoline 30W motor oil, going all the way back to the early '60's. Used it all the way up until '95 when I bought a diesel truck. Truck takes Rotella 15-40 so now, so does all the old stuff for the last 16 years. Change oil/filter every 8-15K miles or ten years, whichever comes first. Never any problems with lubrication. Some of these engines have 150-300K miles on them. Always clean inside the valve cover.

PS. I THINK the old Valvoline oil had about 900 ppm zinc in it for years. Not this magical number of 1300 ppm that some seem to pull out of thin air. Not sure about the Valvoline zinc # but I am sure I never had any premature camshaft wear.

I don't need the $10-$15/quart Joe Gibbs stuff to give me a woody.

rustylugnuts

15w-50 is kind of heavy for a low mileage engine don't you think? Was your working engine tolerances put into consideration for this weight oil when built say under .0027?
What’s your oil pressure? I use this Moble 1 15w-50 in my diesel truck with 210,000 miles, thought there would be a little more slop to accommodate this weight oil. Also use Moble 1 0w-40 in the BMW 85,000 miles. Joe Gibbs Hot Rod synthetic 10w30 in my 61 fuelie 20,000 miles. Would like to hear your thoughts on this I also drive in Florida.

rustylughuts

Frankie the Fink

Actually there was a Mopar recommendation years ago to use the heaviest oil that would let the motor turn over easily in cold weather...can't remember which car that was for.
Maybe MikeM knows...

rustylugnuts

I think the ppm numbers increased do to today's higher lift camshafts and quoting "Duke Williams gonzo valve springs" that caused premature camshaft ware. I agree 900 ppm is ok for lifts under .450 using factory med duty (L79) valve springs. As for the Rotella 15-40 diesel oil, I know what Duke states I'm also a member of the NCRS but the article about thread #15 referenced API SM engine tests, high phosphorus diesel engine oil was run in a flat tappet, push rod engine test and it failed the wear requirements with worse results than most low Phosphorus passenger car oils. That's why I no longer want to play that game reading researching, hoping my API oil hasn't changed again. So it's a no brainer for me that gives me ease of mind to select a oil that will not change over time.
Also yes, I do get a woody using Joe Gibbs oil at 9.99 qt. total= $70.00 with quality oil filter. I've spend more than that a week on Avgas!

rustylugnuts

MikeM

Why don't you use the 89 octane E10 in your fuelie like I do in mine? $3/qt oil and $3.85 (currently) gas.

Seems you're throwing a lot of money away. $10/quart oil and $6-7/gal gasoline.

PS. Sometime when you get a chance, check around and find out what the JG racing oil ISN"T doing for your engine that standard motor oil does.

MiguelsC2

Let's not forget how important image is.

You know, AV gas, Joe Blows Purple Miracle ZDDP Custom Motor Oil etc.. Have won many a bench race.

MikeM

Is that similar to "if it don't go, chrome it"!?(and it'll look fast)

RIP, Stroker McGurk.

rustylugnuts

Mike I see you live in Greenville, In. A "little cooler" then Tampa, FL... ha ha ha!!!.... So my fuelie doesn't have vapor lock (percolation) at 98 degrees. Also I have compression ratio between 11.3:1 & 11.7:1 so she runs well @ 50/50 avgas/high-test Oct to May, from June to Sept 100% avgas.

What year is your fuelie?

rustylugnuts

MikeM

It's a '63.

Don't kid yourse;f about the temperature here. We had somewhere around 30-40 days in the 90's here this summer, the last few days of August were 100+.

It sputters a little sometimes on hot restarts but quickly clears out and runs well. Our summer gas has the same vapor pressure as the Tampa gas as far as I know. I don't know what my actual compression ratio is but I decked the block, the heads were previously surfaced and I have the .125 Speed Pro domed pistons in it with the .03? thick head gasket. I also run manifold vacuum advance with the light can as opposed to the OEM venturi vacuum tighter can. 12* initial, 36 total + vacuum, 21mpg.