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Distributor End Play

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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Jackfit
'Hi you may find this post , with a problem like yours, helpful, the forum helped me, read through all the replies and the fixes

Jack

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...my-l-79-a.html
Thanks Jack. Did you have a problem like mine with a dead and weak cylinder? I replaced the wires/plugs to those cylinders with no charge.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by leadking
I remember putting two big shims (.060?) to take up the end play (this was 40 years ago) It doesn't affect the dwell, only the timing.
A change in dwell effects a change in timing.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 05:14 PM
  #23  
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Default Came down to wires

Originally Posted by jtranger
Thanks Jack. Did you have a problem like mine with a dead and weak cylinder? I replaced the wires/plugs to those cylinders with no charge.
The missing on engine was due to a general breakdown in the "more correct wires " that you get from vendors.

The fact that my distributor needed to be rebuilt, ( like about 70%) of these old things in our cars, was not the problem in itself

make sure you have a good new cap

good plugs

good Napa wires ,,,,, dark blue , fit perfectley

Car runs like a clock

But back to your problem, you need to know that each component is good

Put your timing light on #5 and see if it flashing, no flash and it may tell you no juice to plug

If you know the wire is good, the plug is good, the cap and rotor are good

the only thing is the Petronix unit, but it sounds unlikely that it would only be bad for one cylinder, possible , but not likely.

When you say dead, is there no fire at all, or is the fire being smothered by oil, excess gas (mechanical stuff)

electrical non conduct to just one cylinder is should be able to be found

I would really rebuild that distributor no matter what.....

It is not hard to do, and once done , will last your life time

Jack
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 05:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Jackfit
The missing on engine was due to a general breakdown in the "more correct wires " that you get from vendors.

The fact that my distributor needed to be rebuilt, ( like about 70%) of these old things in our cars, was not the problem in itself

make sure you have a good new cap

good plugs

good Napa wires ,,,,, dark blue , fit perfectley

Car runs like a clock

But back to your problem, you need to know that each component is good

Put your timing light on #5 and see if it flashing, no flash and it may tell you no juice to plug

If you know the wire is good, the plug is good, the cap and rotor are good

the only thing is the Petronix unit, but it sounds unlikely that it would only be bad for one cylinder, possible , but not likely.

When you say dead, is there no fire at all, or is the fire being smothered by oil, excess gas (mechanical stuff)

electrical non conduct to just one cylinder is should be able to be found

I would really rebuild that distributor no matter what.....

It is not hard to do, and once done , will last your life time

Jack
Jack, When I pull the wire at the cap when running the #5 cylinder idle does not drop at all. #2 only drops slightly and all other cylinders drop noticeably. Swaped new wires/plugs on #5 & #2, no change. I am leaning toward bad pertronix I, distributor or plugged injectors.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 07:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jtranger

or plugged injectors.
Take your air cleaner hose off and with the engine idling, use a squirt can of some kind and shoot some gas in the air meter. If the engine picks up, it may be a fuel problem.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 07:33 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Take your air cleaner hose off and with the engine idling, use a squirt can of some kind and shoot some gas in the air meter. If the engine picks up, it may be a fuel problem.
I ain't responsible for backfires or you burning the hair off yer head either. Do it at your own risk but that's what I'd do to confirm a plugged injector or lack of fuel to at cylinder.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 07:45 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by larrywalk
After reading all the above, I'd say that the misfiring has to be caused by one of the following: cap, #5 wire, or spark plug.

Even though a spark plug may fire ok in air, it is possible for it to misfire due to higher voltage requirements at the gap when under compression.

The cap and wire may also leak when stressed to the higher voltage required by a plug under compression.
You stated you have new plugs. Let me tell you a story. I built a nice 301 for my 56 Belair. Everything new. Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, you name it. From the initial start up it ran like **** and had a miss. I checked everything. Cap-okay, rotor-okay, wires resistance check- okay, plugs looked okay as well. Several weeks of checking everything and found nothing wrong. An old racing buddy stopped by and I told him the whole story. He said "What plugs are you running?" I said "It's not the plugs, they are brand new Champions". His reply was "Throw those POS plugs in the garbage, put in a set of AC or Autolite plugs and I'll bet you $100 it will run perfectly". He was 100% correct. From that day in the early 70's to today, I wouldn't run a Champion plug if it was free.
The moral of the story is don't assume something is okay just because it's new. That applies even more today with the lack of quality control and all the Chinese crap on the market.

Jim
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