storage for winter

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Nov 7, 2011 | 04:04 PM

iluvhockey

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Joined: Feb 2011

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From: Vancouver BC

storage for winter

WHat do you guys do for preparation for WInter storage. There are a lot of articles on it. My main concern is the gas tank. To leave empty as possible (I been told that that is trouble for rust. Or to keep entirely full and put gas stabilizer (but that means having gas int here for over six months).

Opinions?

Nov 7, 2011 | 04:18 PM

32361ARTHUR

Racer

Joined: Jan 2011

Posts: 407

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From: LAS VEGAS NV

Quote:

Originally Posted by iluvhockey

Here in Las Vegas you can get race gas at the pump. I have some vintage motorcycles that sit for more than six months at a time without being started. I put race gas in them for the last three years and have not had one problem. I keep the tanks full. Before I used the race gas I had nothing but problems and usually had to take the carb off of each bike before it would start after a long sit. Cars are not as sensitive to the crappy gas as the bikes as the jets are bigger, but if it was mine and I knew it would sit for six months I would fill it with the 100 octane race gas. It is pricey but it works.

Nov 7, 2011 | 04:29 PM

stingrayl76

Safety Car

Joined: Jun 2003

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From: Grosse Ile MI

Filling the fuel tank helps reduce the exposed area where condensation can form and promote rust inside the tank. Fill the tank, add Stabil and drive it a few miles so the additive gets to the carb. Six months shouldn't be a problem. One good way of storing for the Winter is to put the car in a Car Jacket. Keeps moist air out.
CAR JACKET LINK

Nov 7, 2011 | 04:40 PM

66jack

Team Owner

Joined: May 2006

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From: CA

fill the tank and park it in garage..start it once in awhile...drive it on good days after the roads have cleared....thats it here in N. CA. they don't use salt on the roads around here...

Nov 7, 2011 | 04:44 PM

OldKarz

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From: On the bank of the Columbia River..... Washington State

Park it in my shop and drive when roads are good!

Nov 7, 2011 | 05:15 PM

capevettes

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I have always kept the tank full. Less room for moisture to develop. I have never used Stabil but it won't hurt, especially with 10% Ethanol which attracts moisture. I change the oil before winter and give it a good polishing. I try to find as many opportunities to drive as I can. If the roads are clear and dry I take it for a good ride. If it's going to sit all winter a good battery tender like a C-Tek 3300 is a good idea.

Nov 7, 2011 | 08:27 PM

Hitch

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Joined: Jul 2002

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From: Clayton NC

Not sure why so many people have problems with their cars over winter. Fill the tank and start it every couple of weeks.

Nov 7, 2011 | 09:20 PM

Mike Ward

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I don't either, it'll be fine for six months or so. No need to start it, that can do more harm than good.

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Nov 7, 2011 | 09:21 PM

Hitch

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From: Clayton NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Ward

I don't either, it'll be fine for six months or so. No need to start it, that can do more harm than good.

I only start mine because I drive it.. lol

Nov 7, 2011 | 09:34 PM

#10

Mike Ward

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Hitch

I only start mine because I drive it.. lol

That's a good thing then!

Nov 7, 2011 | 09:42 PM

#11

jim lockwood

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From: northern california

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Quote:

Originally Posted by iluvhockey

WHat do you guys do for preparation for WInter storage.

Other than connecting the battery to a float charger, absolutely nothing.

Anything else is too much trouble and a waste of time.

Jim

Nov 7, 2011 | 09:45 PM

#12

Hitch

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From: Clayton NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim lockwood

Other than connecting the battery to a float charger, absolutely nothing.

Anything else is too much trouble and a waste of time.

Jim

I agree, not sure why some would add stabile and then run the car. Any fuel in the bowls will evaporate in about a week or two.

I think the biggest thing is a lot of folks have the cars parked in unheated garages that invites condensation...

Dave

Nov 8, 2011 | 11:56 AM

#13

wonderful

Burning Brakes

Joined: Aug 2008

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From: Mosquito Land, Manitoba, Canada

I jack up my car and put it on stands, remove the tires (to stop flat spots), start the car and pour new oil in the carburator until the engine stalls, remove the battery and put it in a warm location and keep it charged, cover the car. There is no heat in my dry storage facility.

Last edited by wonderful; Nov 8, 2011 at 12:01 PM.

Nov 8, 2011 | 12:10 PM

#14

OCS1667

Burning Brakes

Joined: Jun 2004

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From: Sandia Park NM

We lower, or take the top off in the winter. In the summer we keep the top up, and use air if you have it.

Or you can join us here this winter, as many do and bring their cars.
Dennis

Last edited by OCS1667; Nov 8, 2011 at 12:13 PM.

Nov 8, 2011 | 12:18 PM

#15

jim lockwood

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From: northern california

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Hitch

I think the biggest thing is a lot of folks have the cars parked in unheated garages that invites condensation...

My cars are parked in an unheated barn. I've never seen any evidence of condensation.... such as would manifest itself as rust formation on bare steel. Admittedly, here in CA humidity is generally low. But even when it rains/snows, though, no condensation ever.

Jim

Nov 8, 2011 | 01:38 PM

#16

builder

Burning Brakes

Joined: Jun 2006

Posts: 1,148

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From: South Dakota

In SD we have, regular -0 to -20 freeze, humid temps and spring thaw which creates a lot of condensation. All I do is the following:
Fill the tank and put in fuel "Stabil"izer, change oil and filter, remove battery or place a battery tender on it, place dryer sheets on top of the floor mats, and cover the car.
I drive the car enough to bring the gas level down a gallon or two (so it will not overflow if temp changes expand the gas) and to get the Stabil into the fuel system.
In the spring when there is a good thaw day, I open the doors so the breeze can help dry out the cement sweat.
When I get the car out, I put in the battery (or take off the tender) and drive the car until the tank is as empty as I dare. Then I fill it up again with 91 octane. check all fluids, lights, tires, antifreeze, grease, etc. I try to take a nice long drive (2-5 hrs) right away to help rid any condensation in the engine. I change the oil again when I park it. Usually less than 2500 miles a year.

If I park it in a heated garage, I do nothing special but a battery tender and cover.

Nov 9, 2011 | 10:37 AM

#17

wonderful

Burning Brakes

Joined: Aug 2008

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From: Mosquito Land, Manitoba, Canada

Quote:

Originally Posted by OCS1667

We lower, or take the top off in the winter. In the summer we keep the top up, and use air if you have it.

Or you can join us here this winter, as many do and bring their cars.
Dennis

You lucky duck. Up north we freeze our buns in the winter. I am seriously considering your offer.

Nov 9, 2011 | 11:14 AM

#18

5thvet

Le Mans Master

Joined: Apr 2006

Posts: 5,347

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From: San Clemente CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by OCS1667

We lower, or take the top off in the winter. In the summer we keep the top up, and use air if you have it.

Or you can join us here this winter, as many do and bring their cars.
Dennis

Nov 9, 2011 | 10:34 PM

#19

Hitch

Race Director

Joined: Jul 2002

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From: Clayton NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim lockwood

I think that has a lot to do with where you live here in NC where humidity is a problem there is definitely condensation due to the temperature and humidity changes.

Dave

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