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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 01:50 AM
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Default Water pump question

Just went through a bunch of threads regarding replacement water pumps. I couldn't find anything that shows how to tell if I have an original(and should rebuild) or not and just get a replacement from my local parts store.

Its on a 65 327/300 with a casting# of 3782608 and also had
T GM2 and D47

thanks,
Bob
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 09:22 AM
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Bob the 608 pump is the correct pump for your 65 300hp......however, your pump is not original to your car. The casting date D47 translates to April 4,1967. If your looking for a rebuilder, I can highly recommend Arthur Gould Rebuilders. He might even have a date coded correct 608 pump on his shelf for your car, if you are interested in going that way.
.
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 09:35 AM
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To add to the above, not all 608 pumps are the same. Corvette 608 pumps are different than pass. car 608 pumps.

Jim
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bobs65
Just went through a bunch of threads regarding replacement water pumps. I couldn't find anything that shows how to tell if I have an original(and should rebuild) or not and just get a replacement from my local parts store.

Its on a 65 327/300 with a casting# of 3782608 and also had
T GM2 and D47

thanks,
Bob

I'd go to NAPA if you don't have to have a correct number/date and get one of their rebuilts.

Many NAPA stores can provide a rebuild service on your old core.
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 1snake
To add to the above, not all 608 pumps are the same. Corvette 608 pumps are different than pass. car 608 pumps.

Jim
What are the differences, Jim?
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by corvettedk
What are the differences, Jim?
Stiffening "ribs" on the "truck" pumps as shown here (on the far side of the pump). (BTW, this one was sold to a CF member who told me the difference.)
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Old Nov 19, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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Corvette pumps don't have the ribs. Many don't know the difference and just go by the casting number. Here's a correct one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-66-67-...item19cae9275d

Here's an incorrect one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Chevy-2...item519becb667

Jim
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 12:41 AM
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A follow on question to this post. I got the new pump installed(first timer), filled coolant etc...

Fired her up to check leaks etc...all good so far. What I did notice is the water temp gauge pegged at 280. It didn't over heat or puke coolant anywhere. Now hours after its still at 280. I did some forum searches and found from John Z:
When it's pegged high, the circuit is shorted to ground; when it's pegged low, the circuit is open.

Is this a coincidence because I just replaced the water pump or could the water pump install have caused this?

thanks as usual,
Bob
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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Check the wire going to the sending unit on the intake manifold. Disconnect it from the sending unit and if the gauge now reads low, your sending unit is shot. If it still reads high, the wire is shorted to ground somewhere or the gauge has died.

Jim
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Many NAPA stores can provide a rebuild service on your old core.
I went that route years ago with an original pump. The rebuilder neglected to true the front hub on a lathe (like the better rebuilders do) so the pulley had a very slight wobble to it. Be sure to check for that.
Pilot Dan
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 02:03 PM
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Ok, disconnected the wire, turn the key to acc and it went back to zero. Put the wire back on and started it up. Seemed to work normal...slowly increasing as the engine warmed.

Now, as I let it idle for about 10min or so, revved it up to 2500-3000 a few times, it climbed to almost 240 degree's. How can I tell that my new water pump is actually working?

Bob
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 08:23 PM
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do you have a infrared thermo gun? check the thermostat housing and make sure your
temp gauge is same as the thermo gun. some times the the gauge is not accurate and
your engine is fine. jmho jim
sorry if this has been asked before.
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