Total Timing Question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 149
From: Anaheim California
Total Timing Question
My car is a '61 283/315. I installed a set of gold (heaviest) advance springs from the Mr Gasket 928G kit. Stock spring were worn out. Initial timing is 18* stock. With the timing light set at 36, I am all in by 2150 RPMS. The normal range is 2500-3000. Would I need to add a heavier weight to get the timing all in at 2500-3000? Retard timing? Or should I live with being all in at 2150? Thanks
Last edited by jtranger; Nov 23, 2011 at 06:53 PM. Reason: add
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
My car is a '61 283/315. I installed a set of gold (heaviest) advance springs from the Mr Gasket 928G kit. Stock spring were worn out. Initial timing is 18* stock. With the timing light set at 36, I am all in by 2150 RPMS. The normal range is 2500-3000. Would I need to add a heavier weight to get the timing all in at 2500-3000? Retard timing? Or should I live with being all in at 2150? Thanks
If you want the advance to come in later, you need to remove some weight, not add it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
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From: columbus oh
that is a pretty quick curve and may show up as a surge at cruising speed in hot weather, at least it might on a carbed mill....may want to shave some weight or add one lighter weight or heavier springs
i like all in at 3500-4000 with unleaded fuels ......good luck
i like all in at 3500-4000 with unleaded fuels ......good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
Most everything I have read suggests having all your timing in by 2,500-3,000 but I'm not going to argue with you. Quite the contrary. I worked my butt off trying to get my timing on my '72 454 before 3,000 to no avail cause it always pinged under part throttle. I think it's all in by about 3,300 now and I'd like to delay it closer to 4,000 as I still have the tinyest ping under the right conditions. It would be nice to find a source for springs other than the ones you get in the curve kits. For my car all of those are way to light.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 149
From: Anaheim California
If I can assume you don't have vacuum advance on that engine and it doesn't spark knock, doesn't kick back on the starter when it's hot, I'd be tempted to let it alone. That's a pretty quick curve for street driving.
If you want the advance to come in later, you need to remove some weight, not add it.
If you want the advance to come in later, you need to remove some weight, not add it.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 28
From: Long Beach CA
No, he's saying you want to lighten the weights. The lighter the weights, the less they are affected by centrifugal force, so they'll fly out at a higher rotational speed. The same principle as putting in heavier springs to resist centrifugal force.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
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From: Greenville, Indiana
You can slap yours up against a flat file or a grinding wheel and take some metal off to make them lighter. The further you grind away from the pivot point, the more careful you have to be about removing metal as a little will go a long ways.
Make sure you understand what MidYear said above.
Make sure you understand what MidYear said above.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2011
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I don't know if they case harden weights for wear purposes.
But you could drill an 1/8" hole in each one near the outer end and keep enlarging the holes until you slowed down the advance enough.
I know I have seen (factory) weights with holes.
But you could drill an 1/8" hole in each one near the outer end and keep enlarging the holes until you slowed down the advance enough.
I know I have seen (factory) weights with holes.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
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From: Greenville, Indiana
Drilling would be more accurate than grinding also if you can do it.
