On my engine wiring harnes (LL); does anyone know where the RED)wire for the voltage regualtor runs threw the firewall? Does it run threw the same hole as the tach cable on a 61?

In addition when your are running a pertronix iginition and illimiate the ballast resistor which wire from the engine harness goes to the coil. I believe there is a green and brown wire. Normally the green goes to the (C) terminal on the solenoid to the Passenger side of the ballast resistor and the Brown wire on the Driver side of the Ballast Resistor locks into the starter switch. I think thats right. I got a good wiring diagram, but naturally it does not indicate a wiring change for an electric distributor.

One more thing if anyone can be of assistance. My solenoid has a (R) terminal not a (C) terminal as indicated by Lectric Limited. What is the difference?

Thanks for any help.

 

Here is the Pertronix wiring (eliminating the ballast resistor) on my '61...note the extra black shrink wrap on the bright green wire as it passes under the sharp edge of the shielding. Basically you just move the bright green coil wire to the driver's side of the resistor and that has full-time 12V applied (cranking and running). The dark green wire from the starter (passenger's side of ballast resistor) does nothing at this point - strictly there to keep an original look. You should prob run an upgraded coil if you bypass the ballast resistor although I got away running a stock Delco coil for a year or so with this arrangement.

I BELIEVE the V/R red wire goes into the firewall at the big grommet shown to the left of the ballast resistor in the picture...but its really hard to trace without removing the shielding so you might want to verify that -- the AIM is really illegible in this area (to my eyes anyway).

The "R" starter terminal is the old ballast resistor bypass putting a full 12V to the coil during starting (but NOT running). I believe its the equivalent of the old "C" terminal with the dark green wire going to the ballast resistor (passenger side)...basically a 'non-player' in a 12V Pertronix arrangnement.

 

The Red wire should come out of the big grommet, go under the heater intake, up to the clips along the ridge under the hood and down to the VR.

 

My guess: R = resistor? or run?, C = coil

 

Frank
I am a little confused.
I basically have (3) wires coming out of the engine harness.
1. is dark green for the PSGR side of ballast resistor.
2. Is brown for the Drvr side of the ballast resistor.
3. is red for the VR
I do not have a light green wire,
I have a red wire from the pertonix that goes to the + on the coil.
If I use the ballast as a junction. I should hook the brown (+) consist voltage to the Driver side of the ballast. (if i did not use a ballast junction this would go directly to the (+) side of the coil?) Make up an additional wire (your is light green) and run that frorm the Driver side of the ballast to the (+) side of the coils? The dark green wire is connected at the top of the Passenger side of the ballast, however not connected to anything at the bottom (C or R) stud?
So the Green wire on the engine harness that goes to the (c) terminal is not used.
I think I confused myself??????

 

correct
correct
i would say yes however my v/r wire is separate from the harness that goes into the firewall grommet although it runs beside it at that point. It isn't 'wrapped' into the larger harness.
i added the light green wire (couldn't find a dark green wire at the time)
Leave the brown/green wires connected just like stock. Yes - you will need a wire from the coil + to driver's side of ballast -- pick a color that pleases you.
If you connect the dark green wire from the C/R starter solenoid stud it still provides 12V when cranking...however it is meaningless as you now (after the conversion) have 12V on the other side of the ballast feeding the ignition coil. Connect the green wire to the starter just so you don't find it hanging down later and wonder what it is...doesn't hurt a thing.
this is typical of the confusion about the pertronix wiring...the only difference from stock is that you are moving the ignition coil wire on the ballast resistor from the passenger side to the driver's side...providing full time (running & cranking), 'switched' 12v to the ignition coil (and the pertronix too since its attached to the + side of the coil). See figure 2...you are just using the driver's side terminal of the ballast resistor for a dumb terminal to tie the ignition coil/pertronix to the 12v coming from the ignition switch. Almost impossible to go wrong using my previous picture.

 

Once again you came through!!!!!
I got it.
Now on the LL engine harness the Amp Gauge PSGR Stud (Black) wire that goes directly to the battery stud on the starter is where the 30 amp in line fuse attached? Is that right?
By the way you recommended attaching the dark green wire on the PS of the ballast that runs down to the started to the (R) terminal. That 12 volt cranking wont have an inpact on anything? So it doesnt matter if attached or not?
I appreciated all the help. Sorry for the dumb questions.

 

Yes - a 30 AMP ATC Blade-type fuse in the black line from the starter to the amp gauge protects 98% of the car's wiring....mine is on the back of the gauge in a weatherproof connector. If you want to 'pimp' it a little there are blade fuses that lite up when blown for easy inspection. Another 10 AMP fuse in the cigarette lighter line is add'l protection. Be aware that most C1 schematics have the amp gauge wires shown reversed...you'll know if your ammeter reads positive when you turn on the headlights with the engine not running.

The green ballast resistor wire connected to the starter solenoid (C or R terminal) won't hurt anything.....I've run like that for 2-1/2 years now. It just puts 12V on that side of the resistor when cranking the starter....which attaches to nothing of consequence. It just makes for a cleaner, more original looking installation.

 

Sounds good. So the green wire that has 12 volt cranking does not go threw the ballast to the other side (brown (+) coil) and create any problems. I dont know anything about ballast resistor or what the hick they do.
Man oh man if you could only see the mess under my dash. It is a wonder it has not caught fire!
Rog

 

No...the green wire only supplies 12V to the PSGR-side of the ballast resistor during cranking and the ignition coil no longer attaches there so nothing happens. Since there is also ALWAYS 12V on the DRVR-side of the ballast resistor whenever the key is not in the OFF position there is no current flow thru the resistor....e.g. the voltage 'potential' across the resistor is 0V.

You are doing the right thing replacing the wiring...the original stuff gets brittle, corrosion builds up, insulation fails and Bubba screws it up over the years.

 

Thanks again.
Well since I am fusing everything i.e. amp/clock/cigarette lighter, do you think the red wire to the VR should be fused? Hear about any problems with that one?

 

No need -- the red V/R wire is fed from the ammeter.
If you fuse the black ammeter line then the V/R wire is also protected.

 

Good deal, one step less I will have to do.
Thanks for all the help.
I will be one it tomorrow again.

 

Reference above should be: I will be (on) it tomorrow again.
Good thing you do not have to know how to spell to work on a corvette!