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It looks like it is time to replace the clutch in my 65, it has a Center Force dual friction now and I'm not sure if I want another. What would be your recommendation for my kind of driving? Mostly cruising I do run a handfull of Corvette/Muscle car drags, 403 bell, lite wt flyweel 365hp looking 383. Been 13.16 109 on 205/70-15 Michelin radials. Thanks for you help.....
Last edited by qwik-tripp; Dec 2, 2011 at 06:53 AM.
Reason: spell
I'll offer my thoughts just so you'll know someone is reading your posts. I have a Center Force dual friction in my car, but I only use it for cruising. I've not tried any high RPM fast shifts with it. The word-of-mouth about the Center Force is that the same weights that make it grab harder at high RPM also make it harder to release and shift quickly when shifting at high RPM as you would during a drag race. I don't know if this is true, but that's what I read. As you've been driving one, I'd think you would know.
My Cobra replica has a SPEC Stage II ceramic clutch that feels more like an on/off switch. It's tolerable for street use, but I wouldn't recommend it, especially if you want to use the clutch to feather the power during a hard launch. That's about all I can offer. Good luck.
Thanks Kellsdad, I haven't had any experience with the ceramic jobs. Thinking of going with a LUK or something comparable. Just trying to get some input.
I've heard good things about the LUK clutch. I have a Hays behind a 383 -- pedal isn't too stiff, and I've been beating on it for several years with no problems.
for what it's worth, when I put a new clutch in back during winter of '09 when I had the tranny rebuilt I got the LUK # 04-021. I think that's just the basic Chevy replacement clutch kit for Corvette, Camaro, GTO, Firebird, Nova, etc.
kit included everything and felt great driving with it. Not sure what clutch WAS in the car previously and by the time I pulled the old clutch out it was toast and way overdue for replacement but the new LUK clutch feels a lot better than the old one ever did.
Since this model was a basic replacement clutch though I wouldn't know if it's heavy duty enough for the added horsepower and torque your 383 makes over my stock motor.
LB66383, I have used Hays way back in the day when 4speeds ruled the strip. I hadn't even thought about one of those. Thanks that is the kind of info I'm looking for.
Barry, I haven't forgot about you and your brake system dilema. I was hoping this thread would take off and get me lots of testimonials on different products and uses. It seems the LUK is very popular after doing many searches, by the way of the many searches I didn't see as much info as a thought I would. Thanks again guys.
Tripp, my brake system issues are what they are - with no money or anyone to help me with the work since I don't know how to do the repairs myself the car has just been sitting there waiting for it's day to get back on the road. Hell, it's only been 17 months up on jack-stands ...... who knows, it may still be there in another 20 years and than I can call it a barnfind! LOL (although lately even Linda has been making a few quiet comments about how nice it would be to get it on the road again and enjoying it)
I haven't forgotten my offer to help you do any buffing out on the paint on your car if it needs it, just let me know.
to be honest, I was surprised to see you post such a simple question in here considering all the experience you have working on these cars. I figured you would have had a few spare clutches just sitting around on your shelves.
Anyway, as mentioned, I do like the LUK clutch I put in but I can't tell you how well it compares or lasts against other brands or models such as the CenterForce or HAYS
for what it's worth, when I put a new clutch in back during winter of '09 when I had the tranny rebuilt I got the LUK # 04-021. I think that's just the basic Chevy replacement clutch kit for Corvette, Camaro, GTO, Firebird, Nova, etc.
kit included everything and felt great driving with it. Not sure what clutch WAS in the car previously and by the time I pulled the old clutch out it was toast and way overdue for replacement but the new LUK clutch feels a lot better than the old one ever did.
Since this model was a basic replacement clutch though I wouldn't know if it's heavy duty enough for the added horsepower and torque your 383 makes over my stock motor.
Barry,
When I looked up the LUK units for the 65/66 model years I came up with the 04-049 unit. This is a bent finger unit that replaced the original system that was in the Corvette.
When I looked up the LUK units for the 65/66 model years I came up with the 04-049 unit. This is a bent finger unit that replaced the original system that was in the Corvette.
Steve
Steve, for my application every cross check I used came up with the 04-021 unit as the correct one so that's what I bought and it works.
From your post, I just researched the 04-049 unit you mentioned. the differences are that the 04-021 is a 10.5" clutch and the 04-049 is an 11" clutch. Various sites show thew 04-021 as NOT correct for my SB motor application. On the vendor site I bought my clutch from it shows the 04-021 as the only choice (in LUK brand) for the SB motor but it lists both units of 04-021 and 04-049 as choices with the BB motors (along with a 3rd choice of a heavy duty unit # 04-902).
Barry it is always good for me to get as much insight from the forum, other than the centerforce units I have used on the last 4 corvettes my clutch experience was always old school ram 3 finger killer units that broke alot of parts and sucked on the street. I am also building a 396sb picked up a ultra-lite Crower crank having it machined now so I would like to have whatever clutch in and and adjusted before I finish this engine.
I found an old post by JohnZ and he did say the 04-021 was the corvette proper clutch for the midyears.
Claysmoker, thanks I'll check into the ram power grip.
On the vendor site I bought my clutch from it shows the 04-021 as the only choice (in LUK brand) for the SB motor but it lists both units of 04-021 and 04-049 as choices with the BB motors (along with a 3rd choice of a heavy duty unit # 04-902).
That's because different big-blocks used different clutches. The '65 L-78 (396/425hp) and the L-88 used a 10.5" clutch and 153-tooth flywheel (same as SB), and all other midyear big-blocks used an 11" clutch and 168-tooth flywheel.
When I put the 460hp 400 in the car, I switched to a Hays unit. No harder to push than the LUK. Haven't had any problems no matter how hard I pushed the car.
I think either unit would probably be fine for your application, but for track times, I'd go with the Hays.
I have a few thousand miles on my centerforce II, and I haven't felt a difference so far from the inexpensive "30% stronger than stock" - (Hays?) that I had with my ZZ4 motor (355hp/405tq) - that clutch lasted around 50,000 miles with a 3:55 rear, then another 15,000 miles tolerating a 3:08 rear as pictured below - All the while being driven like a rental (but no slicks). It was working fine when taken out - no sign of slipping. It was a 10.5", and ran 12.9 at 108 on 235/60/15's at the track when it had 45,000 miles on it.
Thanks Kellsdad, I haven't had any experience with the ceramic jobs. Thinking of going with a LUK or something comparable. Just trying to get some input.
a lot of them , luk included make a great unit...i went with the cfII after the luck and hayes for pedal effort...my wifey now loves to drive our 66 because of the low pedal effort...for competition, im not sure how long the cfII would last over the others....jmo....
From: I'm not doing as well as I expected, but I never expected I would
I replaced the old borg&beck style finger clutch in my 61 with the LUK diapharm type as described above. Be sure to install the TO bearing properly and you will be happy for miles.
Thanks guys, the centerforce have worked fine in every different car, just not sure the cost is justified. I never really noticed a big difference in the pedal effort. Looks like Hays and LUK both have about the same number of fans as the CF DFII.