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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 06:40 AM
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Default Coil Overheating

I have been chasing a misfire when the engine is hot on my '61 283/315. I am running the original Pertronix I (10 years old) with the Pertronix coil.

When the car was at operating temperature 165* I touched the coil and it was very hot, almost fried my hand! I put an IR gun on the thermostat and the engine was 165* and the middle of the coil case was a whopping 195*. I swapped the stock coil in and it also heated up. The unit is hooked up correctly: red wire to 12V resister, black to
- coil. The ballast resister is also new.

As a comparison, I fired up my '65, same pertronix set up as above and the engine temp was 180* and coil was only 160*. You could touch the coil without frying you hand!

Could a defective Pertronix module be heating up my coils? I haven't replaced the module yet. Anyone have this problem?
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 08:01 AM
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Which side of the ballast resistor is the red wire hooked to ?

That determines if the resistor is in the circuit -- which is what you want with a Pertronix I with a stock (or high-resistance substitute) coil.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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When using an electronic trigger instead of points you need a higher output coil than the stock one
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Which side of the ballast resistor is the red wire hooked to ?

That determines if the resistor is in the circuit -- which is what you want with a Pertronix I with a stock (or high-resistance substitute) coil.
Frank, I am hooked up to the 12V side of the resister and I am using the Pertronix coil. I have swapped out back to the original coil with no change.

Last edited by jtranger; Dec 28, 2011 at 12:31 PM. Reason: add
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by GCD1962
When using an electronic trigger instead of points you need a higher output coil than the stock one
I disagree - Pertronix units work just fine with the stock coil; they just substitute an electronic switch for the electromechanical points switch. The type of switch has nothing to do with the coil operation or output.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jtranger
I have been chasing a misfire when the engine is hot on my '61 283/315. I am running the original Pertronix I (10 years old) with the Pertronix coil.

When the car was at operating temperature 165* I touched the coil and it was very hot, almost fried my hand! I put an IR gun on the thermostat and the engine was 165* and the middle of the coil case was a whopping 195*. I swapped the stock coil in and it also heated up. The unit is hooked up correctly: red wire to 12V resister, black to
- coil. The ballast resister is also new.

As a comparison, I fired up my '65, same pertronix set up as above and the engine temp was 180* and coil was only 160*. You could touch the coil without frying you hand!

Could a defective Pertronix module be heating up my coils? I haven't replaced the module yet. Anyone have this problem?
Where are you getting power for the (+) coil terminal?
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jtranger
Frank, I am hooked up to the 12V side of the resister and I am using the Pertronix coil. I have swapped out back to the original coil with no change.
This sounds like the problem! You should be hooked to the output of the resistor and not the input. It sounds like you have completely bypassed the resistor. This will make the current go through the roof, and eventually damage the coil. Move the wire to the low voltage side of the resistor, and hope that you have not already damaged them. The only time that the coil should see full battery voltage, is when in the cranking mode. That is why the wire comes up from the starter solenoid to the output side of the resistor.


Regards, John McGraw
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 02:45 PM
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I use a 1/4" thick hard rubber insulator gasket between the coil bracket and the coil on my 61 fuelie (a bike cycle inner tube works well). Also base of coil shouldn’t touch anything leaving a nice size air gap. You will see a dramatic reduction in heat transfer afterwards.

rustylugnuts
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
I disagree - Pertronix units work just fine with the stock coil; they just substitute an electronic switch for the electromechanical points switch. The type of switch has nothing to do with the coil operation or output.
John - Pertronix, Mallory, Accel, MSD, all list higher output .06 ohm coils for electronic conversions. Stock can be used and will work, but for maximum spark the heavier duty coils are suggested.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
Where are you getting power for the (+) coil terminal?
John, Wire goes from positive coil terminal to low voltage regulator side of resister as per instructions with pertronix I.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by John McGraw
This sounds like the problem! You should be hooked to the output of the resistor and not the input. It sounds like you have completely bypassed the resistor. This will make the current go through the roof, and eventually damage the coil. Move the wire to the low voltage side of the resistor, and hope that you have not already damaged them. The only time that the coil should see full battery voltage, is when in the cranking mode. That is why the wire comes up from the starter solenoid to the output side of the resistor.


Regards, John McGraw
John, Instructions call for Ignitor module (red wire) to get the full 12V to the input/ignition side of coil. The + coil side has a wire to the low voltage side to keep the coil from getting the full 12 volts.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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John, Instructions call for Ignitor module (red wire) to get the full 12V to the input/ignition side of coil. The + coil side has a wire to the low voltage side to keep the coil from getting the full 12 volts.
That sounds correct for an early Pertronix.

Is the coil that's getting hot epoxy or oil filled ?
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Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Dec 28, 2011 at 03:52 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jtranger
John, Instructions call for Ignitor module (red wire) to get the full 12V to the input/ignition side of coil. The + coil side has a wire to the low voltage side to keep the coil from getting the full 12 volts.
Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that the coil was hooked to +12V.


Regards, John McGraw
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GCD1962
John - Pertronix, Mallory, Accel, MSD, all list higher output .06 ohm coils for electronic conversions. Stock can be used and will work, but for maximum spark the heavier duty coils are suggested.
Of course they do - they're in the business of selling performance parts; the heavier-duty coils will also provide more secondary voltage when used with points. The electronic conversions are just a switch (like the points); the coil produces the spark.

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...tionBasics.pdf
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GCD1962
When using an electronic trigger instead of points you need a higher output coil than the stock one
IMO: no
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:22 PM
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I agree John, but if they didn't work better then they wouldn't be making and selling them for very long. You can't knock all performance parts
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jtranger
John, Instructions call for Ignitor module (red wire) to get the full 12V to the input/ignition side of coil. The + coil side has a wire to the low voltage side to keep the coil from getting the full 12 volts.
SHOULD READ: John, Instructions call for Ignitor module (red wire) to get the full 12V FROM THE KEY SWITCH SIDE OF THE BALLAST RESISTOR. The + coil side has a wire to the low voltage side to keep the coil from getting the full 12 volts

A combination of resistor spark plug wires and resistor plugs can overload the coil.

A short in the engine harness from any 12 volt line to the pink wire from the starter solenoid to the coil will provide 12 volts to the coil all the time.

Last edited by magicv8; Dec 28, 2011 at 04:42 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by GCD1962
I agree John, but if they didn't work better then they wouldn't be making and selling them for very long. You can't knock all performance parts
I bought the Flamethrower coil from Pertronix. It melted down in 2 months. I put an old GM coil back in. No problem for years and years.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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Perhaps your resistor is no longer a resistor(?) Check the voltage to the positive side of the coil with the engine running.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by GCD1962
I agree John, but if they didn't work better then they wouldn't be making and selling them for very long. You can't knock all performance parts
I'm not knocking performance parts - I've bought and used plenty of them over the last 40 years of building hot rods and race cars; you just have to take a lot of their marketing hype with a grain of salt.
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