Yes I know that most will say I didn't need to do this, and that a newer electronic voltage regulator is much better. Yes I know many will say just put back the newer aftermarket VR and forget the stock one.

I purchased a restored voltage regulator for my 66. It is part number and date correct. It was to replace a later after market electronic (if that is the correct term) voltage regulator. No, don't plan to have the car judged, but when and where I can bring small things back to the way GM did it, I prefer to do that.

I am trying to figure out if it is working correctly. I am using a tester/monitor (pictured below).

For the electronic VR I get charging voltage of 14.2-14.4 volts at 1500/2000/2500 RPMs, doesn't change much after 1500 using this digital battery/alternator monitor. That is well within the specs in the 66 Chassis Service Manual (13.5 to 15.2). Also at constant RPM, the in dash battery meter is stable at 0. If I switch on the headlights the batt meter kicks to negative a slight amount, but quickly moves back to zero. If I turn on the turn signal the meter kicks to negative and bounces in conjunction with the turn signal flashing but not much.

For the correct/stock VR I get charging voltage of 13.6 volts using the digital battery/alternator monitor, which is still within specs. However, the in dash battery meter is a lot more active. At idle, the batter meter bounces around a little. If I switch on the headlights, the battery meter starts bouncing around, to negative back positive and keeps bouncing around until I switch the lights off.

Is this normal for an original type voltage regulator?

Thanks,

 

I would expect SOME degree of needle movement with an original styled VR due to the points opening/closing in the VR, where as the solid state VR has no points to act as little switches.

However even with original-style VRs I don't see my needle bouncing much.

 

I see quite a bit of difference, i.e. bouncing of the gauge needle. The only other difference is that I did install the capacitor on the stock VR and do not have one on the electronic VR. I don't know if that makes a difference or not. What is strange is that the digital monitor doen't fluctuage when I'm holding constant RPM. So I would think there is definitely something with the stock VR that gives the gauge fits in certain conditions.

 

Hi Don,

My gauge has been bouncing for 42 years, Since it is not a true amp gauge, it shows flow, I am not an expert, but the stock VR at low rpms , will have the lights flicker, and be dim, some put a smaller pulley on the alternator, to speed it up , lessening the dimming and flicker. You notice this as you step on gas, the gauge will move from slightly neg to pos side of gauge, if the battery has been run down, the needle will move far to right and slowly return to 0 .

(Please forum members who know more than I chime in )

The electronic VR reduces this effect at low rpms, again I am not an expert , but if you do not want your Electronic VR , let me know.

I was going to order one from Bill Caldwell, who sells them

Jack

 

Yea, I expected what you describe, but that isn't what's happening. The gauge needle bounces back and forth across zero. It's not like steping on the gas and the needle moves to positve then gradually back to zero. It bounces all over the place. But does not do this with the aftermarket VR.

I took the stock one off today so my wife and I could go for a ride. Going to put it back on and take a longer drive to make sure I have it warmed up enough. Still confused

 

I understand your desire to have many stock components, but , there is a reason that upgrades come along.

I drive my car a lot and an electrical VR will be more consistent with doing the job than a mechanical one.

It may well be the gauge if old or not calibrated, or more likley, the mechanical VR is not working at 100% , even if newly rebuilt.

The stock VR will cause more movement, but constant bounce means something is wrong. If it goes away or lessens with the E VR, you know the problem is in the mechanical VR.

My car is stock except newer parts that will be more reliable and are physically almost correct, (you can put the AC cover on the electronic VR)

I love the old, but sometimes, new can be better

Jack

Jack

 

FWIW I was having issues with my 67 volt meter acting oddly and battery not charging correctly with my restored date coded unit purchased from different source. I did open it up to see if I could attempt some adjustments using the service manual but was shocked by how badly it looked inside.
Closed it back up and I had that same unit updated with the custom electronic upgrade offered by Bill Caldwell Corvette and it now works perfectly, the gauge works as it should as moves as expected under load. Very happy with it and it was turned around in under two weeks as promised. From any angle, you cannot tell anything was done. Cannot beat the lifetime warranty either!