67 fuel pump brass fitting
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: El Dorado Hills CA
67 fuel pump brass fitting
I just received a brass fitting for my rebuilt fuel pump that I ordered from LIC. I have a L79. I tried screwing it in by hand and it went in about 3/4 of a turn. I grabbed a wrench and tried tightening it and it felt pretty hard so I stopped. From what I could tel,l getting it all the way in felt like it would be pretty tough if not impossible but I'm not sure. I just dint think it should be that hard.
How hard should it be?
Also, I'm assuming I shouldn't be using and Teflon tape or dope as that would only make it worse.
When I takes the old one off tomorrow I can try te one on the old pump.
Thoughts?
Ed
How hard should it be?
Also, I'm assuming I shouldn't be using and Teflon tape or dope as that would only make it worse.
When I takes the old one off tomorrow I can try te one on the old pump.
Thoughts?
Ed
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There's at least 2 different size inlet/outlet lines, so just wait to get yours off and side by side before you force anything. They may have sent the wrong one, or the wrong fitting!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: DFW
I'm almost embarrassed to ask, but is it pipe thread? If so, it's supposed to behave as you've described... And there will be no hard "bottom". Alternately, if you only got a turn or so, you may be forcing a pipe thread into an inverted flare. Google inverted flare for a pic..
Harry
Harry
Last edited by 66since71; Jan 7, 2012 at 08:36 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: El Dorado Hills CA
I'm almost embarrassed to ask, but is it pipe thread? If so, it's supposed to behave as you've described... And there will be no hard "bottom". Alternately, if you only got a turn or so, you may be forcing a pipe thread into an inverted flare. Google inverted flare for a pic..
Harry
Harry
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: El Dorado Hills CA
Here are pictures of the fitting and the pump. Not sure what type of fitting this is called but maybe the connector isn't right. I purchased it here (see photo at bottom of page):
http://www.licorvette.com/fuel_line_set_corvette.htm
Ed
http://www.licorvette.com/fuel_line_set_corvette.htm
Ed
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From: Taylor Michigan
you should have gone to a GOOD local parts store like I suggested....but the fitting you purchased is a pipe thread .....its unclear what the pump will take however it could be an inverted flare style as GM pumps offer both depending on the year.....What is on your OE line leading from the pump to the carb?....it should be an inverted flare from the factory as OE would be a hard line and not a hose fitting.....the flexible hose line is between the pump and frame/tank'
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: El Dorado Hills CA
you should have gone to a GOOD local parts store like I suggested....but the fitting you purchased is a pipe thread .....its unclear what the pump will take however it could be an inverted flare style as GM pumps offer both depending on the year.....What is on your OE line leading from the pump to the carb?....it should be an inverted flare from the factory as OE would be a hard line and not a hose fitting.....the flexible hose line is between the pump and frame/tank'
Melting Slicks
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From: Reno Nv
Something's wrong with the threads/thread style match. It's hard to tell from the pics.
I just walked into the shop and looked at my original. The hose fitting should screw into square fitting on the pump far enough that there is only a 1/8th gap between the two square parts.
The threads on the pump fitting look a bit questionable on the right side of the hole but again, it's hard to tell from that pic.
You certainly don't want to force it in any further.
I just walked into the shop and looked at my original. The hose fitting should screw into square fitting on the pump far enough that there is only a 1/8th gap between the two square parts.
The threads on the pump fitting look a bit questionable on the right side of the hole but again, it's hard to tell from that pic.
You certainly don't want to force it in any further.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: El Dorado Hills CA
Something's wrong with the threads/thread style match. It's hard to tell from the pics.
I just walked into the shop and looked at my original. The hose fitting should screw into square fitting on the pump far enough that there is only a 1/8th gap between the two square parts.
The threads on the pump fitting look a bit questionable on the right side of the hole but again, it's hard to tell from that pic.
You certainly don't want to force it in any further.
I just walked into the shop and looked at my original. The hose fitting should screw into square fitting on the pump far enough that there is only a 1/8th gap between the two square parts.
The threads on the pump fitting look a bit questionable on the right side of the hole but again, it's hard to tell from that pic.
You certainly don't want to force it in any further.
Once I do that, I'll be able to look at the fitting on the current pump.
Ed
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Thanks. I need to run to the auto parts site because my next step is to remove the old pump which means I need to come up with something I can put on the end of the rubber hose to keep the tank from draining onto my garage floor!
Once I do that, I'll be able to look at the fitting on the current pump.
Ed
Once I do that, I'll be able to look at the fitting on the current pump.
Ed
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
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From: El Dorado Hills CA
Anyway, I'll take off the line later today and see if the piece on the current pump fits my new one.
Ed
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
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From: El Dorado Hills CA
This is wrong in a lot of ways, and just plain ugly! It's set up for a rubber gas line which is not a good idea and bubba to boot, the braided original is much stronger and has the proper fitting on the end of it, that second elbow is pipe thread going into a compression flare type fitting, and that's totally the wrong style pump (much later) for the car. You may even have clearance problems trying to fit it. Do it once, do it right!
You should have left the old pump alone if it was working well, IMHO.
1) This is the correct pump for a 67 L79
2) The original setup on a 67 L79 is to have this style connector with a rubber hose that connects to the metal line that goes back to the tank,
3) The set up that was on the car (original pump as described) had the outlet stripped so it contained a spacer so that the metal line that went between the pump and the carb was pushing into the water pump house - not too good.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
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From: El Dorado Hills CA
Ok, just took off the old fuel pump. wasn't too bad to take off but getting it back on isn't going to be fun.
Here's a picture comparing the inlet adapter that was on the car to the one I purchased form LIC. The good news is the old one fits nicely into the pump so I should be good to go.
I have a couple of questions:
1) When I took the pump off the push rod slid down... How do I get it back up? I tied with my hand it I can't seem to move it and it seems like it's all the way down. Do I need to remove the plate (2 screws) to get to the bottom of it?
2) I thought I read that I could remove the bolt that's on the from of the engine block and insert a longer one to hold that rod while the pump is installed... is that right? is it the on right on the front of the block? How long of a bolt should I use?
Thanks!!
Ed
Here's a picture comparing the inlet adapter that was on the car to the one I purchased form LIC. The good news is the old one fits nicely into the pump so I should be good to go.
I have a couple of questions:
1) When I took the pump off the push rod slid down... How do I get it back up? I tied with my hand it I can't seem to move it and it seems like it's all the way down. Do I need to remove the plate (2 screws) to get to the bottom of it?
2) I thought I read that I could remove the bolt that's on the from of the engine block and insert a longer one to hold that rod while the pump is installed... is that right? is it the on right on the front of the block? How long of a bolt should I use?
Thanks!!
Ed
Last edited by emdoller; Jan 7, 2012 at 03:40 PM. Reason: Forgot picture
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Opps, sorry about that. I assumed stuff I shouldn't have. I thought those closed units came out in 68. Apologies.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
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From: El Dorado Hills CA
Melting Slicks
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From: Allison Park, PA
1) When I took the pump off the push rod slid down... How do I get it back up? I tied with my hand it I can't seem to move it and it seems like it's all the way down. Do I need to remove the plate (2 screws) to get to the bottom of it?
ED,
YES - take the plate off so you can pull the push rod out. When it's out, stick one end in a tub of grease - and push that end in the engine - the grease will hold it in place until you get the pate and pump back on!
Tom
ED,
YES - take the plate off so you can pull the push rod out. When it's out, stick one end in a tub of grease - and push that end in the engine - the grease will hold it in place until you get the pate and pump back on!
Tom
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From: Taylor Michigan
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From: Washington Michigan
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From: Washington Michigan
I have a couple of questions:
1) When I took the pump off the push rod slid down... How do I get it back up? I tied with my hand it I can't seem to move it and it seems like it's all the way down. Do I need to remove the plate (2 screws) to get to the bottom of it?
2) I thought I read that I could remove the bolt that's on the from of the engine block and insert a longer one to hold that rod while the pump is installed... is that right? is it the on right on the front of the block? How long of a bolt should I use?
Thanks!!
Ed
1) When I took the pump off the push rod slid down... How do I get it back up? I tied with my hand it I can't seem to move it and it seems like it's all the way down. Do I need to remove the plate (2 screws) to get to the bottom of it?
2) I thought I read that I could remove the bolt that's on the from of the engine block and insert a longer one to hold that rod while the pump is installed... is that right? is it the on right on the front of the block? How long of a bolt should I use?
Thanks!!
Ed
2. A 1-1/2"-long 3/8"-16 bolt will work fine; be sure to remove it and replace the 1/2"-long original bolt before you start the engine.