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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 05:56 PM
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I finally got my guages back, installed in the newly painted cluster, along with installing the Deluxe Lectric Limited wiring harness. An additional fuse for the Amp (black) wire is installed along with a fuse for the cigarette lighter. I checked everything twice and it looks Ok according to the DocRebuild schematic.

Anyone have a suggestion concerning putting power to the car i.e. place one fuse in at a time or anything else.

There are alot of crazy stories out there with guys installing a new wiring harness and burning wires up. If I can head off a potential problem let me know.

Thanks
Rog
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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  1. Put the fuses in
  2. Ensure no wires are loose and no hot wires are touching ground
  3. Connect the battery
  4. Start verifying circuits are working

The fuses will blow if you've got something hooked up wrong, although the wiring from the ignition switch to the starter is unfused and WILL start smoking if you have a short in that circuit (says the man who had that experience).
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Personally I would put the fuses in one-at-a-time while watching for smoke or overheated wiring...verifying correct operation of the related circuit as I go...

Oh I should have added.....step 1 SHOULD be:

1) Have a Halitron fire extinguisher close at hand!

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jan 8, 2012 at 06:37 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 06:34 PM
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Here is my somewhat cynical response. Whatever you do don't even think about checking the continuity of the individual circuits before you install the harness in the car. You know, apply power to the fuse box with a trickle charger and check the wire on the other end for power. If you discover a bad circuit that way (and most likely with a new harness you will NOT) you can correct it on the bench.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BADBIRDCAGE
Here is my somewhat cynical response. Whatever you do don't even think about checking the continuity of the individual circuits before you install the harness in the car. You know, apply power to the fuse box with a trickle charger and check the wire on the other end for power. If you discover a bad circuit that way (and most likely with a new harness you will NOT) you can correct it on the bench.
His harness is already in...
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 07:21 PM
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Keep them coming. I plan on firing it up tomorrow after I call the insurance company and raise my coverage. So far the plan is one circuit at a time. Thanks!
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
His harness is already in...
Yes, I read that part. As I said my response was somewhat cynical. A continuity check could still be performed prior to applying battery power. Just more difficult maneuvering around with the harness already installed.

For anyone else who might be considering a rewire with a factory style replacement or non factory replacement, like a Painless or other manufacture you might consider laying out your circuits and testing it all out prior to installation in the vehicle.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 07:54 PM
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Don't overthink this. Good results come from a patient and carefull install. Connect everything and verify the proper connections and wire routing. Connect battery, if all is well try headlamps, brakes, ect... then proceed to key on tests, followed by a start up in that order. I've done a few, just don't mix up the black and brown wires (Midyear black is ground to cluster) as that will create a dead short. The problems that usually result from a rewire come from poorly routed wires that cause problems down the road. Pilot Dan
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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Dan, that's my plan. We will see what happens.

By the way the difference between Lectric Limited and M&H is M&H claim to bench check every harness they make prior to going out. Just something to think about.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Quintero
Dan, that's my plan. We will see what happens.

By the way the difference between Lectric Limited and M&H is M&H claim to bench check every harness they make prior to going out. Just something to think about.
Hmmm, in 2006 Lectric Limited personally told me the same about their harnesses, although when it arrived several plastic connectors had fallen off of their associated terminals.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Quintero
Dan, that's my plan. We will see what happens.

By the way the difference between Lectric Limited and M&H is M&H claim to bench check every harness they make prior to going out. Just something to think about.
Roger, on a C1 the most important thing is to make sure the wires are PROPERLY supported with the proper clips. Here's what happened to one poor unfortunate owner of a 60 whose mechanic ignored the wiper cables which contacted the Red wire and resulted in a major fire :



Easily avoided
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 09:00 PM
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Dan, I know the wiper wire acts like a saw. It is a mess trying to work around them.
Thanks
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilot Dan
Roger, on a C1 the most important thing is to make sure the wires are PROPERLY supported with the proper clips. Here's what happened to one poor unfortunate owner of a 60 whose mechanic ignored the wiper cables which contacted the Red wire and resulted in a major fire :



Easily avoided
How are the wires suppose to route through the wiper cables? Plus the cowl vent hings? I have to replace my wiring harness because the rear harness was not grounded correctly. It was my fault. Now, I am in the process of replacing all of the wiring once more.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jimh_1962
How are the wires suppose to route through the wiper cables? Plus the cowl vent hings?
There are harness clips that are secured using the windshield mounts. I believe the routing of the wires is shown in the AIM.

Jim
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 01:14 PM
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The AIM is not really clear. More interested how the wires go from the cluster to the console. Do I put the wires inside through the cowl vent hinge or underneath it?
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jimh_1962
The AIM is not really clear. More interested how the wires go from the cluster to the console. Do I put the wires inside through the cowl vent hinge or underneath it?
The wires to the console exit the main harness just above the radio and above the cowl vent linkage. Mine don't come within 2-3" of the linkage. I can post a pic. if you need one.

Jim
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 01:43 PM
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Hello
I am installing new wiring harness myself. Before I did anything I read the shop manual and looked at the AIM book this will help you put wires back correctly. My original harness was a mess (melted at fuse box some time in the past) wires cut for no reason missing clips and other items I had no idea existed until looking at pictures and of course using most valueable reasource this forum!
Good luck
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jimh_1962
The AIM is not really clear. More interested how the wires go from the cluster to the console. Do I put the wires inside through the cowl vent hinge or underneath it?
It's exactly those type of things you need to pay attention to. Aside from using the proper supporting clips, move the cowl vent through it's entire open to closed travel positions and be sure it does not contact the wiring at all. It should go around it NOT through it.

Here's a photo I just snapped of my Harness install showing the proper clips. Notice how the wiring is nowhere near the Wiper Cables or anything else that moves.



In addition, you can use a couple of small well placed zip ties for added security which is what I did. Pilot Dan
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 06:47 PM
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Thanks gang. I took a little of everyone's advise.
I finished the wiring yesterday including the restoration of all my gauges and cluster. Everything worked this morning. It shocked me. I did a bunch of wiring with Painless and Easy wiring on hotrods and always had a problem or two. The Lectric Limited replacement Deluxe wiring harness was a little more complicated due to trying to keep everything looking original; but with everyones help things went great. All the advise on fuses and things to look out for cut the learning curve in half and save alot of time, not to mention limiting buring wirings.
I am still in shock that everything worked without a hitch and the car started right up.
I have not drove the car yet and will tomorrow. Hopefully the wiring will work fine on a short run.
By the way I made sure the windshield wiper cables were not in contact with anything. That could have been a big issue (chain saw effect).
Just want to say one more time (Thanks to Everyone). You guys saved me a bunch of time!!!!
Rog
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger Quintero
....Hopefully the wiring will work fine on a short run.Rog
Psst - phrases I like to avoid:

Taking a car for a "short run" after doing wiring.
Inviting people over for the "body drop"

Congratulations on the successful start to your car!
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