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Tweaked my solid lifter settings yesterday on the '61 and they had loosened up more than I would have thought over 4,000 miles or so. Somebody a while back had posted the info (maybe 1snake -- Jim) about the best replacement nuts to use on the adjustment studs. Can anyone provide a recommendation ? And a source ?
any parts store selling valve train parts including a dealer....there are no different quality nuts...contrary to some of the Vette stores or Internet places...ie . Jegs, Summit ect...and if you really want trouble buy those posi lock things and be under the hood all the time....There must be some parts stores there besides those computer orientated dummy places...Machine shops doing valve jobs...there has to be a ton of places you can get them ..no luck, try a dealer 35-50 cents each
Frank,
These are the type I use. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-920G/
Once set, the only reason they will go out of adjustment will be valve train wear or the studs pulling out of the head. I've been using them for over 40 years on every performance motor I build. I don't use them on stock hydraulic cammed motors though.
Not sure how having posi-lock nuts will have me under the hood any more than the regular ones -- and I would assume a lot less. I used something similar on my hipo 289 mustang solid lifter motor and don't remember them being any trouble...and it was regularly revved to 7K...
I think I'll try the Summit versions with all due respect to Ironcross... Thanks folks...
Frank,
These are the type I use. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-920G/
Once set, the only reason they will go out of adjustment will be valve train wear or the studs pulling out of the head. I've been using them for over 40 years on every performance motor I build. I don't use them on stock hydraulic cammed motors though.
Jim
Jim
Can you comment whether the 921G version (7/16"-20) will fit under stock rocker covers on a L-71?
I've had many factory solid-lifter small-blocks over the years, and have never had an issue with the factory rocker arm nuts; the key is not to run them on and off multiple times. Those nuts are a Stover prevailing-torque (self-locking) design, and lose that capability as they're run completely on and off the studs. Use new nuts (they're cheap), and you shouldn't have any issues with them backing off; oil the ***** (I prefer the ***** with oil grooves) and rocker arm seats before you fire it up after a teardown so they don't run dry at startup.