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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 07:36 PM
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Default Guess the problem

Engine has been running rough in the '62. The engine is a 70 LT-1 short block, Dart Heads, headers, weiand manifold, Hei dist. All added components are are only a few years old.

Engine started to run rough during the summer on a trip. Most noticed at low to mid RPM. It is not the carb, not the ignition. Today I had a chance to check the compression. All cylinders are right around 150lbs, except #3 which is 60 or less. There is no fouling of the spark plug, no valve train noise like a broken rocker or spring. There no smoke from exhaust so no burned piston or broken ring.

I haven't taken the valve cover off as yet, but was wondering what others might think the problem might be.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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Hate to say it, but it sounds like a wiped intake lobe on the cam. Been there, done that.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 08:47 PM
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If you have no noise or lifter tapping, I suspect a tight exhaust valve.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Westlotorn
If you have no noise or lifter tapping, I suspect a tight exhaust valve.
60 lbs is alot if its a guess I guess compression ring or if it has a hydro lifters a sticky lifter,valve, weak valve spring, leak at intake gasket at #3,while running spray some carb cleaner around #3 see if it picks up, pull the valve covers run the starter and see what the valve train does
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 09:38 PM
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If it is quiet, lifters are working but might be adjusted poorly.
If it is low on compression an intake leak would not affect compression in any way.
Weak valve spring, should show up at high RPM with a floating valve.
Be interesting to find the answer on this one.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 11:21 PM
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Might try a leak down test to see if cylinder can hold compression with valves closed. If no big leak and rocker/rocker stud/pushrod look OK then maybe a cam lobe but I would be skeptical. Listen to dipstick to hear if air is going into crankcase or carb to see if is going topside. Compression is leaking out somewhere at only 60lbs. Let us know what you find.

Fred
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 11:32 PM
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I suspect a burnt valve/seat, not enough to smoke yet, or a scuffed wall! Did it get overheated ever?
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 11:45 PM
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valve/seat, lobe would cause lean popp above 3000rpm unless carb is sick rich. good luck
Keith
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 12:26 AM
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Have you replaced the plug wires. Check for cracked dist. cap.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 08:07 AM
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George. This may sound way to simple but it can't hurt to try. Pour some water down the carb and keep the motor running. I'm sure you know this trick. You may just have some carbon build up on an exhaust valve keeping it open just alittle. I know when your car was here it did run alittle on the fat side.

If you lost a lobe I would think you would here it in the valve train.

Let me know what you find. If I can help in any way let me know.

Brian G.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by GCD1962
Engine has been running rough in the '62. The engine is a 70 LT-1 short block, Dart Heads, headers, weiand manifold, Hei dist. All added components are are only a few years old.

Engine started to run rough during the summer on a trip. Most noticed at low to mid RPM. It is not the carb, not the ignition. Today I had a chance to check the compression. All cylinders are right around 150lbs, except #3 which is 60 or less. There is no fouling of the spark plug, no valve train noise like a broken rocker or spring. There no smoke from exhaust so no burned piston or broken ring.

I haven't taken the valve cover off as yet, but was wondering what others might think the problem might be.
at 60 lbs...something is amiss in that cylinder.
pull the valve cover and check the action on both intake and exhaust valves...check lash for too tight clearance on the valves for that cylinder
apply air to that cylinder with both valves closed, this will show the condition of the valves, seats and rings
could also be a head gasket but im leaning more towards a lack of air in the intake charge for adequate compression or a leaky exhaust valve...jmo....
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:19 AM
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:38 AM
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Burnt exhaust valve allowing leakage, IMO.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:15 AM
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I'm leaning towards the burnt valve. Don't think it is a lobe as it's the original cam and always had good oil and good pressure. Inside of engine very clean. If it was a broken spring there would be more noise and would be more noticable at higher rpm. I do remember when I check that plug on the trip it was bright white as running too lean. Other plugs were normal
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by anips
60 lbs is alot if its a guess I guess compression ring or if it has a hydro lifters a sticky lifter,valve, weak valve spring, leak at intake gasket at #3,while running spray some carb cleaner around #3 see if it picks up, pull the valve covers run the starter and see what the valve train does
lets try this again, worn rings, cracked head or blown head gasket, but doesn't necessarily mean oil in the water or water in the oil, burned or cracked piston, cracked cyl, burned or cracked valve, broken or weak valve spring, bent or broken push rod, bad rocker arm or pulled rocker arm stud, flat or worn cam, sticky lifter or valve, lets hope its not a bad the cam or cyl., a stand up on #3 would be a lot easier, if you didn't do a wet- dry test do another comp. test on # 3, first dry and then wet by squirting oil into the cyl. its normal for it to come up a little but if it comes up alot close to your 150# benchmark then I would guess its the piston assy.

Last edited by anips; Feb 10, 2012 at 12:40 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by UberLegend
I saw Jungle Jim and his pit lady back in the day, which are you?

Last edited by anips; Feb 10, 2012 at 12:51 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 01:10 PM
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Good tips above.
White spark plug, good indicator. Very Lean burn, no oil in burn. Rings are fine.
Head gasket, Lean burn makes detonation and that could cause a head gasket failure.
This much compression leaking will presurize the Radiator, I did not see any mention of rapid loss of fluid in radiator. I drove an engine with one cylinder leaking in the head gasket for a couple months while building the replacement engine. I drilled a small hole in the Radiator cap to allow the pressure to release and it worked fine till the new engine was installed.
If a cam lobe is worn bad enough to kill your compression there would be a lot of valve train noise.

The Water trick may work if this is carbon issue but do it slowly so you dont bend a rod or break a piston.

I would start with a simple valve adjustment on that cylinder and see what you find.
Good advice above to pressurize that cylinder with the cyl on TDC will identify where the air is going. Your symtems indicate exhaust leak as an intake leak would be heard in your carburator. Hope the valve is not burned and with your low mileage it may not be.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 01:22 PM
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Quit screwing around and pull the head. In the time you second guess it here, you can have the head off and see.


I've done the second guess thing far too many times.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 07:14 PM
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I do intend to dig further. Takes me awhile though as car is in an unheated barn and others must be moved to get to it. I will start with taking the valve cover off, then if needed intake and then head. I'm guessing now that it is a bent or burned exhaust value. Past couple of times briefly running the car there was a sheen of something (fuel?) coming from the exhaust on the #3 side. It did not leave an oily trace. If need be I'll buy a new head or maybe a new set. I let you know the progress and what I find.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Pulled the valve cover off today. Appears to have wiped the lobe off of intake #3. No movement of pushrod when cranking. With the low compression I thought it would have been a hung open valve. There is no gas in the oil so it might have just happened. It had been acting up and getting worse, but I didn't drive the car once it got real bad (total wipe of the lobe). Next will be to pull the intake to pull the lifter and check the lobe. If it is just the cam any suggestions as to a replacement - solid, hydraulic or ? It is a stock LT-1 cam that came with the short block. Hard to see why it would happen now as I always use proper oil and change oil & filter every 1,000 miles. Block has about 40k miles on it now (installed in '72).
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