Can anyone tell me how to go about getting the stainless moulding from around the windshield removed so that it can be sent in to have scratches removed and polished. Is this something I can do myself or should I take car to a glass co. Thanks, Rick

 

Rick, is it a coupe or a vert? verts i don't know about. on coupes you can buy a tool from NAPA to remove the stainless trim, it costs about 10 bucks. It slides under the the trim and releases the clips that hold the trim on. It is a pain to remove the trim -- ask me how i know...

as for as polishing the trim, i have

 

Hi Rick

Here is a post of mine . Should help, Hint....if a roadster, take off the molding starting with the top and interior pieces first, then sides, slide the side out of the lower front, Once all the other molding is off, you can see the clips for the lower piece . Hopefully no one used permanent glue to hold the molding to front.

I took a rock to the windshield last summer outside of Park City UT, on my trip. Found a local glass shop to perform the task of taking out my old windshield and putting new one back in birdcage.

It is an insurance claim , so I had to use a shop to have all materials paid for . Plus, I am not able to do the glass bit, Glass shop does removal and install and I made a deal to have me remove the trim and to put back the trim, as the glass shop did not want to be responsible for damage to trim.

They came out to my house and within a few moments, we had the glass out and started to clean up the birdcage of sealants.

I had the windshield replaced 36 years ago by a local shop in New Hampshire. He used the right materials, as they were still soft, my windshield never leaked. Top and trim leaked, but was cured by my third latch.

They did a good job, (35 years ago) as you can see from the pictures of my clips and birdcage. Clips look like new, look at the screws, shinny, no rust anywhere except on top corners and just surface rust. I will not need any clips at all.

Any tips on rust and rust proofing before glass install?

You can see the original Milano Maroon paint

My trim came off without problems, a little bending of the lower trim , but go on will be easier I hope. It is a two person job and I found a good tread on how to do it.

Seats are out to to be covered, can't wait , after 45 years on the same foam and springs.


Jack










Click on this link and you will see the installation of the windshield

http://s633.photobucket.com/albums/u...0Leak%20Drive/

check this link for all the pictures of trim removal

http://s633.photobucket.com/albums/u...shield%20trim/

sample picture See that lower trim is last to take off, and mark the locations of clips so when you put it on you will know where they are

 

Just a bit of advice based on my personal experience....be careful that you don't tweak the ends of the lower piece of stainless. Pretty sure I did on mine, although it looks just fine on each end

After putting everything back together, one end doesn't want to stay permanently snapped down flush over the upright piece of stainless. Close, but not perfect. I periodically have to push it back down after a drive.

 

It is very important to have the lower piece properly centered.

If it is the least bit off, the 'longer' side won't want to stay down.

If everything is fitting properly before you remove the moulding, try to reinstall it in precisely the same location.