I wanted to get feedback from someone who has modified their ignition on a c2 corvette. I just bought a 64 c2 and wanted to change to an HEI or DUI ignition. Any recommendations? Were you able to use the heat plate that covers the original distributor after install? Thanks.

 

This is what i put in my 66
MSD 8572 Distributor with a Blaster 2 coil, "not shown".
I took off the ring that holds the wires on/in place but did not get a picture of how i routed them...



Then i used a MSD 6A box mount behind pass side headlight.



Here is pic with shielding on as you can see.

 

May I ask why?

 

Thanks for the info and pics. I was asking b/c the HEI and DUI come with the coil as part of the distributor, so I wanted to know if someone was able to use the heat shield as is or if it had to be modified.

 

If you don't need the tach drive (switched to electronic tach) then use the MSD 8360 and put the MSD 8437 cap on it and it will fit with no external box needed. You will still need an external coil, MSD or other with around 1 ohm resistance (don't remember exactly). No inline resister for the 12v should be used. With this cap it will use your existing wires. It is a ready to run distributor only a three wire hookup.
It has a tach out wire also.

chuck

P.S. I don't think there is any way to get the HEI large cap under the shielding.

 

Have a GM HEI in my 65. Works terrific but will not fit under shielding. Other than appearance why would you want to use the shielding. There is no radio interference with the HEI.

 

Even if you don't use the ignition shielding, the HEI will interfere with the SHP aluminum manifold used with the L79 and L76 motors.

 

Why not consider a Petronox inztallo. We did our '66 SBC two years ago and it runs kive a Singer Soowing machinhe. Looks almost 100% stock and no problems with ignition shielding.

George Schaerer
Fairfax, VA

 

I have to ask this only because I'm thinking about going back to an original Delco unit, why are you changing or why have most of you changed out your original units? In all my past cars I had stock units and don't ever remember having any trouble with the exception of a resistor that went bad on a 63 Nova.

 

I didn't change....I never had an original so I went with MSD...

 

That's great- didn't do much good for your spelling though.

 

The originals have that metal contact that is used to generate the spark. From what I have heard you need to space these contacts correctly if not you get misfires and the engine won't run as smooth as it should. The issue is finding someone who knows how to space them out correctly, so that it runs nice and smooth. You don't need to deal with this on the new electronic/HEI systems.

 

in the WORST case senario your original distributor hasn't been touched in over 40 years. Have it rebuilt (usually less $$$ than what you would spend on replacing it with another type of ignition system).
With a newly rebuilt distributor including new points, condensor, rotor and cap, you will have a great running and VERY RELIABLE ignition system.
The only maintainace you will need to do is to check and maybe adjust the dwell once a year (a 10 minute job). I do ths every spring when getting the car ready for the summer season - I check dwell and timing, adjust carb if needed, and change oil and filter.

You aren't goinhg to see any real advantage to "upgrading" to an HEI, MSD, or whatever other system out there although the vendor selling you the new system will be very happy to take your money.

BTW, you mentioned "spacing out the contacts". I have no idea what you are referring to in the ignition system except for the gap on the points and whoever rebuilds your distributor will do that for you (or do it yourself with a matchbook!!)

 

If all you re worried about is setting the correct gap on the points using a dwell meter & allen wrench will result on a spot on adjustment. A wise use of the money would be to rebuild the original distributor and have the ignition curve optimized. Should not run more than $60.

 

setting up points is easy, but if it really is a no go for you, buy a pertronix ignitor setup. I have one on my 66 mustang (289) and it works great! My vette runs just as well on its mallory dual point dist... (came on the car)

 

Any time you adjust the dwell, you have to adjust the timing (or at least check it) and then need a dial back timing light or timing tape.

 

I use a Mallory HyFire IV on my '64. It is mounted to the rear of the passenger-side wheel well behind the battery and doesn't show. This is triggered off of Accel points. Because the points only act as a switch and no longer carry current, they don't arc and burn, but they can go out of adjustment a bit.

This also allows me to use the stock cap and shielding. Also, if there is a problem with the system, a jumper plug gets me back on the points and the electronics are totally out of the picture in under a minute.

Regardless of how you set the dwell at the points, the Hyfire sets it at ~45 degrees (spec is 28-32 degrees). A longer dwell produces a better spark, but typically results in the points being closer together resulting in point bounce at high RPM. A shorter dwell results in a less intense spark, but because the points are spaced further, result in less bounce.

I can have the points so far out of adjustment that the car won't even start or run, but plug in the Hyfire and the car fires right up with a 45 degree dwell and you only need to set the timing. I bypass the system and set the points at the low end (26-27 degrees) resulting in the additional spread for less bounce, but if the electronics go out, still well within the working range of the ignition should I need to bypass it to "limp home." Then I remove the jumper and the Mallory takes the dwell back up to ~45 degrees and I set the timing.