I'm redoing the frame on my 62. I used Por15 the first go-around but just don't care for how it looks. Now I'm looking for the better alternative. I would like to stick with a satin finish.

Recommendations please?

Thanks!!!
Doug

 

Powdercoat...

 

Why not look into powder-coating? It can be done in about any level of shine you desire - cost no more than paint.

 

I always just use a single stage urethane that has been flattened to semi-gloss sheen. I prime with PPG DP90, followed by PPG DCC in Tuxedo black (DCC 9300), and add the specified amount of flattening additive (DX685), to yield a semi-gloss sheen.

This makes a finish that is as tough as nails, and will last for years and years, as well as looking correct. I never took a single point hit for chassis finish at judging with this combo.



Regards, John McGraw

 

tough coat works well.

 

I wish! Last time I had parts powder-coated (which admittedly was about 10 years ago) I think I could have had them chrome plated for about the same price. Maybe the prices have come down since then, or maybe my local shop was just way out of line.

I sprayed my frame with slightly-flattened Dupont Imron, which came out nice; would have preferred powder-coat but 'way too expensive.

 

I would say John's instructions are by far the best recommendations - especially if your going to drive this car a lot and it gets in bad weather once in a while.

There are cheaper ways to go if necessary. Twenty years ago before I got set up to spray paint I had mine dipped, primered it with spray cans, sprayed it with semi-gloss Rustoleum spray cans and sprayed a coat of low luster clear polyurethane over it out of more spray cans. It looks the same today as it did 20 years ago.

early 90s


today


Make no mistake - there is nothing NCRS correct under there.

If you already have a compressor and spray outfit you have lots of options. If I were doing it today I would use the PPG urethane John mentions.

 

I would and even have a local guy ready to do the job. However, it is sort of the chicken and the egg problem. I have treated the inside of the frame with rust inhibitor and it likely won't stand up to the heat. On the other hand, had I waited until after PC, the inhibitor would have gotten all over the finished product. I felt it more important to make sure the frame doesn't continue to rot from the inside..

 

Thank you. This is exactly type info I was hoping for. Would two quarts do the job?

 

It sure must be cheaper in Arizona. My neighbor just had the frame and suspension pieces powder coated on a 23 Ford he's building. The frame is basically a rectangle with 4 cross members. Everything was brand new metal and the cost was $1000.
I much prefer paint. Cheaper and easier to touch up.

Jim

 

dad had the his 67 coupes frame powder coated. to get the frame and all the other components sand blasted was about 500 bucks then another 500 bucks to have powder coated. turned out great.

 

Absolutely!
Only flatten the amount you mix to put in the gun. That way, you will have non-flattened material to use for other uses, or you can flatten to other sheen's for other places on the car.



Regards, John McGraw

 

Powder coating prices can vary widely from one vendor to another. I blast my own chassis, and I have a powder coater in San Antonio that has been doing my blasted chassis for $350, and this is for a SRIII frame that is way more work to get coverage on all the round tubes. This same shop does all of Billy Dawson's frames, and is a real big operation A couple of my local shops, regularly get over $1000 to do a frame.

I took a SRIII chassis to a new shop today that is charging me $450, but I don't have to carry the frame all the way down to San Antonio and back. I am sure hoping that they meet my expectations, as I sure am tired of of all the road time, for a competitive price! If I am pleased, I will let everyone know, as Austin has never had a competitive cost powder coat shop until now.

I usually paint original frames, and powder coat resto-mod frames. Sometimes, trying to powder coat original frames that can have oil and grease come out during the bake, can be a real pain. Unless you can have the frame dip degreased, inside and out, I would recommend staying away from powder coat. The problem is, if the grease comes out and ruins the adhesion or looks of the finish, you have to burn all the coating off the frame and start all over. This is why some shops get so much for a chassis, they have gotten burned in the past, and are trying to cover their ***!


Regards, John McGraw

 

Sem rust shield. It comes in flat, semi or gloss. I use it on all frames. Some of my own cars where done well over ten years ago and still look like day one. Just to make a point, I do drive my cars.


Brian G.

 

Looking to use SEM Rust Shield on my frame. Can you tell us more about the process and the products you used? I see they have several different numbers including a primer.

 

Just wanted to update this thread and thank everyone for their input. After much thought, I decided to go with John's suggestion. As a matter of fact, I printed it and took it to the local shop. The guy was very happy to oblige.

It was a very hard decision. Basically, I was looking at the same cost (around $500.00) to have it done either by conventional paint or powder coat. The powder coat guy seemed a little more concerned about the rust inhibitor used by Chem-Strip. Either way, the frame came out looking great! I gave the painter a brake backplate I had powder coated Satin Black and he match the tint to a tee.

Thank you again for the help. I start reassembling the chassis this weekend. I still have some powder coating to do but really enjoy that part of the deal. I also have the engine at the machine shop for rebuilding. Hopefully will have a rolling chassis by Spring!

Doug

 

Just did a frame last summer (acid dipped then powder coated) tuff stuff!The inside of the frame turned out great and the powder coating made its way in there to.It was very inexpensive under a grand and a quick turn around very satisfied!!!

 

Sounds like you got a good painter! You will not ever regret doing it right. The DCC is real tough, but it is also real easy to touch up.



Regards, John McGraw