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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Default Starting Problem

I"m having a recurring problem starting my 62. Sometimes I turn the ignition and nothing happens; no click, just diming of the interior light. I use a screwdriver on the starter and it starts normally. Afterwards the car may or may not start using the key. I have changed the starter out several times because I thought the heat was causing the problem. The current starter is less than a year old. Anyone had this problem before?
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Paladin62
I"m having a recurring problem starting my 62. Sometimes I turn the ignition and nothing happens; no click, just diming of the interior light. I use a screwdriver on the starter and it starts normally. Afterwards the car may or may not start using the key. I have changed the starter out several times because I thought the heat was causing the problem. The current starter is less than a year old. Anyone had this problem before?
Sounds like ignition switch or related wiring....C1s don't normally have a heat soak problem with the bellhousing mounted starter. When I had this problem on my '61 I would get a 'no start' condition about every 20-25 times I tried to start the car - drove me nuts. Turned out it was a bad connector in the harness that connects to the ignition switch. It would make the circuit most of the time but every once in a while I got no juice at all.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:31 PM
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I tried "wiggling" the connector on the back side of the switch today with no effect. I have a car show tomorrow and won't have time to check all the wiring but will look at it Monday. Thanks for the reply.
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:33 PM
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I agree with Frankie on the ignition switch being suspect. But what do I know, I'm focusing on your avatar
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:36 PM
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Carry a long jumper wire with you and if you have a problem jump the + battery terminal to the + terminal on the ignition coil and see if the car starts. If it does you can limp home that way but shouldn't do it for too long as it bypasses the ballast resistor. If that trick DOES work then you definitely have an ignition switch or related wiring problem !
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 10:46 PM
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Don't think I need the jumper wire. Although the starter won't turn via the switch, if I have the switch "on" and use the screwdriver on the starter the engine cranks and runs fine afterward.
Regarding the avatar...she's one of the models from a Miss Corvette contest I shot in 2010 (I'm a photographer)

Last edited by Paladin62; Mar 24, 2012 at 11:17 PM. Reason: Left off part of reply
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Paladin62
Don't think I need the jumper wire. Although the starter won't turn via the switch, if I have the switch "on" and use the screwdriver on the starter the engine cranks and runs fine afterward.
Regarding the avatar...she's one of the models from a Miss Corvette contest I shot in 2010 (I'm a photographer)
Well a quick look at the attached diagram pretty much shows you what you are bypassing when you short the starter with a screwdriver (how do you even do that without jacking the car up?). As I said before - its the ignition switch or associated wiring. When you do that screwdriver thing YOU are the ignition switch !
Attached Files
File Type: doc
Starting_Circuit.doc (653.5 KB, 166 views)

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Mar 25, 2012 at 07:28 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 08:55 AM
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It wouldn't hurt to doublecheck the ammeter connections, almost everything goes through them.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Paladin62
Don't think I need the jumper wire. Although the starter won't turn via the switch, if I have the switch "on" and use the screwdriver on the starter the engine cranks and runs fine afterward.
Regarding the avatar...she's one of the models from a Miss Corvette contest I shot in 2010 (I'm a photographer)
What you need instead of a jumper wire is a test light. Next time it won't start, put the test light on the solenoid terminal you're jumping and see if you get a light. If you do, and the starter doesn't spin, you may have low voltage going to the start side of the solenoid from the ignition switch or you may have a bad solenoid. If you get no light, work your way back up the circuit towards the ignition switch until you get a light.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 09:21 AM
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The fact that the interior lights dim when you turn the key sure makes it sound like the starter solenoid. Jumping with a screwdrive replaces the solenoid activating the starter. I don't know why you would keep having the same issue with different starters, providing of course you changed that as part of the swap.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert

Jumping with a screwdrive replaces the solenoid activating the starter. .
I believe it would be more accurate to say the screwdriver replaces the ignition switch activated starting circuit. The solenoid still has to function as intended in order for the starter motor to do it's job.

The screwdriver just eliminates any problem with a open circuit or high resistance in the starter circuit.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
I believe it would be more accurate to say the screwdriver replaces the ignition switch activated starting circuit. The solenoid still has to function as intended in order for the starter motor to do it's job.

The screwdriver just eliminates any problem with a open circuit or high resistance in the starter circuit.
Completely agree...regardless of starting method that solenoid has to pull the starter drive gear into the flywheel ring gear...ain't no way 'round that...
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 10:43 AM
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But if the lights dim, wouldn't that indicate that the power is getting to the solenoid but it wasn't moving? Something is drawing power when the switch is turned, or the lights wouldn't dim. I had the same indication on my 65 and the solenoid was the problem. On mine, the voltage gauge was also pegging negative, but no sound from the solenoid. When the ignition closes the loop to activate the solenoid and put 12v battery voltage on the starter, and that causes the lights to dim, the only two things that make sense to me is either the solenoid is stuck, or one of the connections at the starter is corroded or loose causing too low a voltage to actually activate it.
I know that in the earlier days if a solenoid went bad and the car wouldn't crank, you could use a screwdriver to short across the two lugs that provided the battery voltage to the starter and the car would start fine. Those were fender mounted solenoids with no moving parts though. I hope the OP will post what fixes the problem in the end.

Last edited by 65GGvert; Mar 25, 2012 at 10:47 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:15 AM
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Solenoid/ Had no problem W/starter since owning car had car jacked for side pipe replacement easy to check remove bench check solenoid was problem also found frayed starter wire connector. lites dimming on start good indication solenoid problem
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert

But if the lights dim, wouldn't that indicate that the power is getting to the solenoid but it wasn't moving? Something is drawing power when the switch is turned, or the lights wouldn't dim. I had the same indication on my 65 and the solenoid was the problem.
Agree with this. I'd say the windings in your solenoid were shorted/open. Something and the solenoid plunger wasn't going full stroke.

When the solenoid goes full stroke it does two things:

1) It pulls the starter drive gear into engagement with the flywheel as FTF said above. This is what makes the loud clicking/clunking sound.

2) It also pulls the flat disc into contact with both big copper terminals. One of those terminals is on the end of the battery cable. The other big terminal feeds the starter motor.

Not related to the OP's issue is when that disc contacts the brass terminals, it will wear them down over time to the point that the solenoid plunger will bottom out before it can contact the starter motor terminal and cause it to spin the starter. That's why sometimes your starter will click but won't crank.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:43 AM
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Solenoid may have shorted wire turn(s), causing less magnetic force, and higher current flow (causing the lack of "pull in" & dimming of the lights).

Or a frayed wire or poor connection can weaken the current going to the solenoid (insufficient voltage to pull in the solenoid, but still drawing current to dim lights).

Plasticman
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:06 PM
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Or it could be physically binding causing the same symptom.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Or it could be physically binding causing the same symptom.
Probably unlikely if its kicking in just fine with a screwdriver...
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 01:15 PM
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To the OP - replace the solenoid and be done with it.

Jim
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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if the switch refuses to operate you may have a case but I doubt it..a bad ground will react the same way with dim lights and no crank

By the way, interested in how to reach the switch without crawling under the car? I`ll even make it worse, how about 100 miles from home and 20 degree weather, but cant energise the switch by the key..I pulled the oil dip stick and reached the starter from above with the key on and in neutral...worked like a charm....

NO SUCH thing as 'heat soak' everything under the hood gets too hot to touch...I`ll concede its electrical, but NOT the starter
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