Starting Problem
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Houston Texas
Starting Problem
I"m having a recurring problem starting my 62. Sometimes I turn the ignition and nothing happens; no click, just diming of the interior light. I use a screwdriver on the starter and it starts normally. Afterwards the car may or may not start using the key. I have changed the starter out several times because I thought the heat was causing the problem. The current starter is less than a year old. Anyone had this problem before?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
I"m having a recurring problem starting my 62. Sometimes I turn the ignition and nothing happens; no click, just diming of the interior light. I use a screwdriver on the starter and it starts normally. Afterwards the car may or may not start using the key. I have changed the starter out several times because I thought the heat was causing the problem. The current starter is less than a year old. Anyone had this problem before?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 131
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From: Houston Texas
I tried "wiggling" the connector on the back side of the switch today with no effect. I have a car show tomorrow and won't have time to check all the wiring but will look at it Monday. Thanks for the reply.
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Army
Carry a long jumper wire with you and if you have a problem jump the + battery terminal to the + terminal on the ignition coil and see if the car starts. If it does you can limp home that way but shouldn't do it for too long as it bypasses the ballast resistor. If that trick DOES work then you definitely have an ignition switch or related wiring problem !
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 131
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From: Houston Texas
Don't think I need the jumper wire. Although the starter won't turn via the switch, if I have the switch "on" and use the screwdriver on the starter the engine cranks and runs fine afterward.
Regarding the avatar...she's one of the models from a Miss Corvette contest I shot in 2010 (I'm a photographer)
Regarding the avatar...she's one of the models from a Miss Corvette contest I shot in 2010 (I'm a photographer)
Last edited by Paladin62; Mar 24, 2012 at 11:17 PM. Reason: Left off part of reply
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
Don't think I need the jumper wire. Although the starter won't turn via the switch, if I have the switch "on" and use the screwdriver on the starter the engine cranks and runs fine afterward.
Regarding the avatar...she's one of the models from a Miss Corvette contest I shot in 2010 (I'm a photographer)
Regarding the avatar...she's one of the models from a Miss Corvette contest I shot in 2010 (I'm a photographer)
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Mar 25, 2012 at 07:28 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Greenville, Indiana
Don't think I need the jumper wire. Although the starter won't turn via the switch, if I have the switch "on" and use the screwdriver on the starter the engine cranks and runs fine afterward.
Regarding the avatar...she's one of the models from a Miss Corvette contest I shot in 2010 (I'm a photographer)
Regarding the avatar...she's one of the models from a Miss Corvette contest I shot in 2010 (I'm a photographer)
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Kannapolis NC
The fact that the interior lights dim when you turn the key sure makes it sound like the starter solenoid. Jumping with a screwdrive replaces the solenoid activating the starter. I don't know why you would keep having the same issue with different starters, providing of course you changed that as part of the swap.
Team Owner
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From: Greenville, Indiana
The screwdriver just eliminates any problem with a open circuit or high resistance in the starter circuit.
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Army
I believe it would be more accurate to say the screwdriver replaces the ignition switch activated starting circuit. The solenoid still has to function as intended in order for the starter motor to do it's job.
The screwdriver just eliminates any problem with a open circuit or high resistance in the starter circuit.
The screwdriver just eliminates any problem with a open circuit or high resistance in the starter circuit.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Kannapolis NC
But if the lights dim, wouldn't that indicate that the power is getting to the solenoid but it wasn't moving? Something is drawing power when the switch is turned, or the lights wouldn't dim. I had the same indication on my 65 and the solenoid was the problem. On mine, the voltage gauge was also pegging negative, but no sound from the solenoid. When the ignition closes the loop to activate the solenoid and put 12v battery voltage on the starter, and that causes the lights to dim, the only two things that make sense to me is either the solenoid is stuck, or one of the connections at the starter is corroded or loose causing too low a voltage to actually activate it.
I know that in the earlier days if a solenoid went bad and the car wouldn't crank, you could use a screwdriver to short across the two lugs that provided the battery voltage to the starter and the car would start fine. Those were fender mounted solenoids with no moving parts though. I hope the OP will post what fixes the problem in the end.
I know that in the earlier days if a solenoid went bad and the car wouldn't crank, you could use a screwdriver to short across the two lugs that provided the battery voltage to the starter and the car would start fine. Those were fender mounted solenoids with no moving parts though. I hope the OP will post what fixes the problem in the end.
Last edited by 65GGvert; Mar 25, 2012 at 10:47 AM.
Instructor
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Solenoid/ Had no problem W/starter since owning car had car jacked for side pipe replacement easy to check remove bench check solenoid was problem also found frayed starter wire connector. lites dimming on start good indication solenoid problem
Team Owner
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From: Greenville, Indiana
When the solenoid goes full stroke it does two things:
1) It pulls the starter drive gear into engagement with the flywheel as FTF said above. This is what makes the loud clicking/clunking sound.
2) It also pulls the flat disc into contact with both big copper terminals. One of those terminals is on the end of the battery cable. The other big terminal feeds the starter motor.
Not related to the OP's issue is when that disc contacts the brass terminals, it will wear them down over time to the point that the solenoid plunger will bottom out before it can contact the starter motor terminal and cause it to spin the starter. That's why sometimes your starter will click but won't crank.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
Solenoid may have shorted wire turn(s), causing less magnetic force, and higher current flow (causing the lack of "pull in" & dimming of the lights).
Or a frayed wire or poor connection can weaken the current going to the solenoid (insufficient voltage to pull in the solenoid, but still drawing current to dim lights).
Plasticman
Or a frayed wire or poor connection can weaken the current going to the solenoid (insufficient voltage to pull in the solenoid, but still drawing current to dim lights).
Plasticman
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From: Taylor Michigan
if the switch refuses to operate you may have a case but I doubt it..a bad ground will react the same way with dim lights and no crank
By the way, interested in how to reach the switch without crawling under the car? I`ll even make it worse, how about 100 miles from home and 20 degree weather, but cant energise the switch by the key..I pulled the oil dip stick and reached the starter from above with the key on and in neutral...worked like a charm....
NO SUCH thing as 'heat soak' everything under the hood gets too hot to touch...I`ll concede its electrical, but NOT the starter
By the way, interested in how to reach the switch without crawling under the car? I`ll even make it worse, how about 100 miles from home and 20 degree weather, but cant energise the switch by the key..I pulled the oil dip stick and reached the starter from above with the key on and in neutral...worked like a charm....
NO SUCH thing as 'heat soak' everything under the hood gets too hot to touch...I`ll concede its electrical, but NOT the starter
