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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:29 AM
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I am stripping the car so I will doing a paint job.The question is the brand of paint to use. Of course I want some good paint but I do not want to break the bank.I am doing a single stage, and the color will be black.I have priced some paint it turn out with harder,reducer turns out to be about $400 a gallon.I will need a sealer,primer,and paint any ideas would be helpful. Thanks Vince
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 08:33 AM
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I'm not a pro, but I've always had good luck with PPG products. I MIGHT paint a car black in single stage if there is truly a mild advantage in maintaining it swirl-free into the future with polish, but I have to say I (again a hobbyist) always find it easier to shoot base/clear. It's just more forgiving I find.
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 11:05 PM
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spi ???
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 12:55 AM
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I am using the Restoration line of single stage paint for $150 a gallon in 36 Ford color bambalino blue by TCP Global for my 36 Ford Woodie. TCP Global has their own recipes for antique car paints. I don't think the PPG line is worth the extra myself although I did use it on my 29 Ford roadster before the Restoration line came out. I also am using epoxy and 2k primers from Southern Polyurethane for about the same $$. I've also used Kirker primers. The Kirker epoxy seems to be more resistant to sanding then the Southern Polyurethane stuff. My 63 verte was painted by a professional shop using Sherwin Williams paint.

Last edited by mrtexas; Apr 29, 2012 at 12:57 AM.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 08:25 AM
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I've used the Black PPG single stage before, and it turned out great. I had an old hot rodder tell me that he uses the color code IR from an '87 Ford. Why '87, I don't know but he said Ford used a Brown tint for the base, where GM uses Blue. The Brown tint makes the Black more Black.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 11:09 AM
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I was just asking this question of a guy who runs a auto paint supply store. He explained there are lots of great products and guys tend to have preferences based more on what they are used to or comfortable with. He said I was overthinking it and when I get to that point, he will help me select the paint brand based on the color I want and the price I am willing to pay. He did agree that the base/clear system seems to be easier for first timers like me. From what I have read, you shoot the base color and it dries super fast. You then shoot clear coat over that and let it dry. Eventually, you sand the clear with 1000 grit or so and buff it out. I tried shooting lacquer when I was younger and it is a real drag color sanding it without mistakes and then buffing it out without rubbing through. I like the base/clear idea.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 11:12 AM
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Not to change the subject but how are you stripping it? I am stripping mine with a razor and sanding but with five layers of paint built up, it's quite a chore. I'm afraid of hurting the car with chemical strippers but at the rate I'm going...
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 04:10 PM
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sanding lot and lots of sanding.Years ago I tried chemicals did not like it.I don't get the razor blade thing.I take most of the paint off with a finishing sander then block it out.It tacks some time but I have a lot of that Vince
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I just painted my Cobra Replica with PPG single stage black and I like it a lot. I asked my dealer for some help with the pricing and they gave me their commercial discount. I paid $255 for a gallon of paint, $50 for a gallon of reducer and $95 for a quart of hardner - so I was right at your price of $400 for a gallon of paint ready to shoot. I haven't heard on any complaints on PPG DDC single stage.
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