harmonic balancer installation concern
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
harmonic balancer installation concern
Hello,
I just {I think} finished installing a new harmonic balancer on a new crate 350. I boiled the balancer for 15 mins { as per directions} and installed it with a Proform balancer installation tool.
I used to use a block of wood and a 5 lb hammer in the old days.
Anyway, towards the end of the install I heard a noise from the tool that I didn't like and I removed the tool to find that the threaded end that goes into the crank snout had started to strip. Luckily I got it out without it snapping inside the crank. My questions is, how do I know if the balancer is fully seated. Is there a measurement re the distance from the outside surface of the balance in relation to the end of the crank snout that I can use? Right now there is approx 1" from the outside surface of the balancer to the end of the crank snout.
Any suggestions at this point would be appreciated. I'd like to start dressing the motor today and don't want to proceed installating he pulleys etc if the balancer isn't fully seated.
Thanks
Dan Siegel, NJ
I just {I think} finished installing a new harmonic balancer on a new crate 350. I boiled the balancer for 15 mins { as per directions} and installed it with a Proform balancer installation tool.
I used to use a block of wood and a 5 lb hammer in the old days.
Anyway, towards the end of the install I heard a noise from the tool that I didn't like and I removed the tool to find that the threaded end that goes into the crank snout had started to strip. Luckily I got it out without it snapping inside the crank. My questions is, how do I know if the balancer is fully seated. Is there a measurement re the distance from the outside surface of the balance in relation to the end of the crank snout that I can use? Right now there is approx 1" from the outside surface of the balancer to the end of the crank snout.
Any suggestions at this point would be appreciated. I'd like to start dressing the motor today and don't want to proceed installating he pulleys etc if the balancer isn't fully seated.
Thanks
Dan Siegel, NJ
#2
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St. Jude Donor '07
wow, i can't imagine threads in the crank stripping, considering how deep they are...
the easiest way would be to temporarily put the water pump and crank pulleys on and see if the grooves line up..
Bill
the easiest way would be to temporarily put the water pump and crank pulleys on and see if the grooves line up..
Bill
#3
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St. Jude Donor '12
Bill, The 62 that I recently bought didn't have a bolt in the snout-- stripped! Luckily ARP sells one that is quite a bit longer than the stock bolt. I put it in, had several good threads at the back end of the hole, and torqued it very carefully. It seems that is a more common occurence than I would have thought. I bought a used Callies crank for an engine I am building, and it had the exact same problem. I gues it comes from using the threads to pull the balancer on. Like you, I'm very surprised that the threads pulled.
#4
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Was the install tool bolt threaded all the way (deep) into the crank? If not, then if only partially threaded in can cause stripped threads.
Did you put any sealant (RTV silicone) on the inside of the balancer prior to installation (to prevent oil from seeping past the woodruff key)? If you need to pull the balancer, then recommend you use the RTV next time. I use a thin film all the way around the bore of the balancer. It helps lube during installation, and then sets & seals.
If the balancer appears to be in the right spot (per Bill's recommended check above), then you can add the RTV inside the bore after balancer install (but before the pulley, large washer, and crank bolt are installed). Just wipe a small bead of it all the way around the inside of the balancer bore at the crand end.
I just checked a spare engine, and another spare balancer. Both show approx. 1" from the end of the crank to the face of the balancer, so maybe you are there.
Plasticman
Did you put any sealant (RTV silicone) on the inside of the balancer prior to installation (to prevent oil from seeping past the woodruff key)? If you need to pull the balancer, then recommend you use the RTV next time. I use a thin film all the way around the bore of the balancer. It helps lube during installation, and then sets & seals.
If the balancer appears to be in the right spot (per Bill's recommended check above), then you can add the RTV inside the bore after balancer install (but before the pulley, large washer, and crank bolt are installed). Just wipe a small bead of it all the way around the inside of the balancer bore at the crand end.
I just checked a spare engine, and another spare balancer. Both show approx. 1" from the end of the crank to the face of the balancer, so maybe you are there.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 04-29-2012 at 12:12 PM.
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St. Jude Donor '07
the BEST way to pull the balancer on is with a high strength stud/all-thread that can be threaded all the way to the bottom of the crank hole, then use a nut & washers to pull the balancer on.
however, a hammer and a block of wood does a fine job if you've got room to swing the hammer....
Bill
however, a hammer and a block of wood does a fine job if you've got room to swing the hammer....
Bill
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks guys for the replies.
Yes, the balancer tool was fully seated into the crank snout. And the almost stripped threads were on the tool, not the crank threads.
Since this engine is sitting on an engine stand on my shop floor, I may give it a whack with a block of wood and a 5 lb hammer. Looking at the balancer froma the side, it appears that it could only go about 3/8" deeper into the tiiming chain cover. Does that seem about right?
Yes, the balancer tool was fully seated into the crank snout. And the almost stripped threads were on the tool, not the crank threads.
Since this engine is sitting on an engine stand on my shop floor, I may give it a whack with a block of wood and a 5 lb hammer. Looking at the balancer froma the side, it appears that it could only go about 3/8" deeper into the tiiming chain cover. Does that seem about right?
#7
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St. Jude Donor '07
double check using John's measurement
I just checked a spare engine, and another spare balancer. Both show approx. 1" from the end of the crank to the face of the balancer, so maybe you are there.
Bill
I just checked a spare engine, and another spare balancer. Both show approx. 1" from the end of the crank to the face of the balancer, so maybe you are there.
Bill
#9
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St. Jude Donor '07
FWIW, i just checked the-end -of-crank-to-face-of-balancer dimension on my spare engine, using the BIG 8" balancer, and it's 1-1/2"
your pulleys lining up is gonna be your best indication
Bill
your pulleys lining up is gonna be your best indication
Bill