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Is there an easy way to get the hood gaps relatively straight and even or does it involve body shiming? Id be happy even if I could move mine a little.
You can use wooden gallon size paint stir sticks to shim the hood.
please advise how that helps the margins?
If I found a paint stick shimming my hood, I'd look underneath and see if someone had done a paper mache' or plywood base to form a bondo repair! I bought a '63 swc once that had the back end formed from 1/4" plywood. Didn't know it until it rolled over the hill and crashed into a tree!
A little tip I learned the hard way on an earlier car, leave a decent gap at the front of the hood. If you don't, and then raise the hood the center of the hood can rub the front and take a chip out of both the hood and the front portion.
If I found a paint stick shimming my hood, I'd look underneath and see if someone had done a paper mache' or plywood base to form a bondo repair! I bought a '63 swc once that had the back end formed from 1/4" plywood. Didn't know it until it rolled over the hill and crashed into a tree!
Maybe he meant to space the gaps temporarily until you tightened the bolts? Just guessing.
If I found a paint stick shimming my hood, I'd look underneath and see if someone had done a paper mache' or plywood base to form a bondo repair! I bought a '63 swc once that had the back end formed from 1/4" plywood. Didn't know it until it rolled over the hill and crashed into a tree!
I think what the poster means is to use a paint stick as a gauge around the perimeter of the hood to get the margins LT/RT and Fore/Aft equal.
We used to use match book covers to accomplish the same thing back in the day when everybody smoked. Now, nobody carries matches anymore.
Let me toss out another thing to add to what Mike posted.
After you have the hood shimmed around the perimeter, AND you have removed the male/female catches on the firewall..................
you can lay under the car with a LONG extension on your 3/8 drive ratchet and tighten the hood hinge bolts without raising the hood.
After you get it as "good as it gets", then re-install the male/female firewall catches and line those up so they don't **** things off kilter when you close the hood.
Maybe he meant to space the gaps temporarily until you tightened the bolts? Just guessing.
I don't know how you could space the gaps until you tightened the bolts with a chunck of wook stuck in the hinges unless you had run out of adjustment on the hinge slots. That shouldn't happen.
I don't know how you could space the gaps until you tightened the bolts with a chunck of wook stuck in the hinges unless you had run out of adjustment on the hinge slots. That shouldn't happen.
Not in the hinges, in the gaps between the hood and the fenders to space them. See the post above yours.
I think what the poster means is to use a paint stick as a gauge around the perimeter of the hood to get the margins LT/RT and Fore/Aft equal.
We used to use match book covers to accomplish the same thing back in the day when everybody smoked. Now, nobody carries matches anymore.
Let me toss out another thing to add to what Mike posted.
After you have the hood shimmed around the perimeter, AND you have removed the male/female catches on the firewall..................
you can lay under the car with a LONG extension on your 3/8 drive ratchet and tighten the hood hinge bolts without raising the hood.
After you get it as "good as it gets", then re-install the male/female firewall catches and line those up so they don't **** things off kilter when you close the hood.
Chuck
That's exactly how it's done on a midyear. Guess I didn't explain it well enough in my post. Thanks for making things clear with your detailed explanation.
You don't need the shims at all. All you gota' do is adjust one side at a time on the hinges and let the hood down to check. When you get it where you want it, put the latches on and don't let them pull the hood anyway but DOWN!
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