Engine storage
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,964
Likes: 419
From: Melbourne FL
Engine storage
I've pulled my original motor and will be putting it away for the next owner. It will be stored with no intake manifold, no fuel or water pump. It will have a non-vette oil pan and old steel vavle covers in place.
I've thoroughly oil-fogged the cylinders as well as the intake and exhaust ports and rotated the engine through several revolutions to spread the oil. I've drained the cooling system and this is where I'm debating the next step.
I let this motor sit several years once before and although it had a 50/50 mixture in the cooling system when it got parked, it was full of scale and junk when I went to put it into service again. I had to pull, disassemble and clean out the engine before even considering turning it over. The motor is in good shape and I don't want the next owner to have to deal with the same mess.
I often pickle marine motors that have sunk and use either ATF or kerosene to stop futher corrosion and am considering doing the same with the cooling system. I'll probably drain and overfill the crankcase with ATF while I'm at it.
Any thoughts? Any other things to be concerned with?
I've thoroughly oil-fogged the cylinders as well as the intake and exhaust ports and rotated the engine through several revolutions to spread the oil. I've drained the cooling system and this is where I'm debating the next step.
I let this motor sit several years once before and although it had a 50/50 mixture in the cooling system when it got parked, it was full of scale and junk when I went to put it into service again. I had to pull, disassemble and clean out the engine before even considering turning it over. The motor is in good shape and I don't want the next owner to have to deal with the same mess.
I often pickle marine motors that have sunk and use either ATF or kerosene to stop futher corrosion and am considering doing the same with the cooling system. I'll probably drain and overfill the crankcase with ATF while I'm at it.
Any thoughts? Any other things to be concerned with?
Last edited by 65air_coupe; Jun 25, 2012 at 03:42 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
I've pulled my original motor and will be putting it away for the next owner. It will be stored with no intake manifold, no fuel or water pump. It will have a non-vette oil pan and old steel vavle covers in place.
I've thoroughly oil-fogged the cylinders as well as the intake and exhaust ports and rotated the engine through several revolutions to spread the oil. I've drained the cooling system and this is where I'm debating the next step.
I let this motor sit several years once before and although it had a 50/50 mixture in the cooling system when it got parked, it was full of scale and junk when I went to put it into service again. I had to pull, disassemble and clean out the engine before even considering turning it over. The motor is in good shape and I don't want the next owner to have to deal with the same mess.
I often pickle marine motors that have sunk and use either ATF or kerosene to stop futher corrosion and am considering doing the same with the cooling systme. I'll probably drain and overfill the crankcase with ATF while I'm at it.
Any thoughts? Any other things to be concerned with?
I've thoroughly oil-fogged the cylinders as well as the intake and exhaust ports and rotated the engine through several revolutions to spread the oil. I've drained the cooling system and this is where I'm debating the next step.
I let this motor sit several years once before and although it had a 50/50 mixture in the cooling system when it got parked, it was full of scale and junk when I went to put it into service again. I had to pull, disassemble and clean out the engine before even considering turning it over. The motor is in good shape and I don't want the next owner to have to deal with the same mess.
I often pickle marine motors that have sunk and use either ATF or kerosene to stop futher corrosion and am considering doing the same with the cooling systme. I'll probably drain and overfill the crankcase with ATF while I'm at it.
Any thoughts? Any other things to be concerned with?
also loosen all the rockers that are under pressure to relax the valve springs so the valves are seated, this is great insurance against a future stuck valve even though you fogged the mill......
tape up the intake ports and exhaust too.....
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,939
Likes: 199
From: Palm Bay Florida
remove the lower drain plugs from the block and use a screw driver to poke away any build up so they are clear......then re install the plugs
also loosen all the rockers that are under pressure to relax the valve springs so the valves are seated, this is great insurance against a future stuck valve even though you fogged the mill......
tape up the intake ports and exhaust too.....
also loosen all the rockers that are under pressure to relax the valve springs so the valves are seated, this is great insurance against a future stuck valve even though you fogged the mill......
tape up the intake ports and exhaust too.....
While you have the plugs out flush the block coolant passages with clean water let it dry out install plugs and tape off water passages as well.
Mark
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,964
Likes: 419
From: Melbourne FL
Cooling system has been thoroughly flushed with block drains removed.
As for the suggestion to tape off things...how many years do you think that tape will last in non-air conditioned storage? I'm looking for some stretch wrap to wrap the entire engine. It won't be air-tight but I can't see bothering to put tape on anything. I've considered making simple caps for the water passage openings so I can fill the block with kerosene but beyond that plan on leaving everything else open.
As for the suggestion to tape off things...how many years do you think that tape will last in non-air conditioned storage? I'm looking for some stretch wrap to wrap the entire engine. It won't be air-tight but I can't see bothering to put tape on anything. I've considered making simple caps for the water passage openings so I can fill the block with kerosene but beyond that plan on leaving everything else open.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,964
Likes: 419
From: Melbourne FL
I have considered finding an old intake manifold to seal off that part of the block. I believe I will fab plates for the water pump and fuel pump openings. That will only leave the exhaust ports and I'll take the advice of backing off the rockers to close all the valves and leave it at that.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,367
Likes: 59
From: FL
I think you are going to extremes on the trouble. Once you have the block clean and dry, it is going to rust very slowly in regular air. If you are within 5 miles of the ocean and have sea air blowing in where it is stored, you will have more from the salt air. Also, if you have wild temperature swings in a very humid area, you will get more than most places.
Still, the rate of rusting is going to be very slow.
Mist in some WD40 or a light oil spray on the bare surfaces, stick it in a big garbage bag, and seal the bag.
If you are intent on making it last 100 years, dip it in a barrel of oil, wipe the cylinders clean, and spread a layer of grease on them. Seal in a bag and wake in 2112 to see how it survived.
Heck, I have old short block engines sitting around fresh out of a vehicle from 20 years ago that the only prep work was to coat a layer of grease on the cylinder walls. I could wipe the grease off today, spray the block clean, and it would be ready to run. They aren't full of rust, so why would yours be if you take any precautions at all?
Oh, and wipe a layer of grease across the stamp pad. That is the only critical area that must be retained stock so take your precautions there.
Still, the rate of rusting is going to be very slow.
Mist in some WD40 or a light oil spray on the bare surfaces, stick it in a big garbage bag, and seal the bag.
If you are intent on making it last 100 years, dip it in a barrel of oil, wipe the cylinders clean, and spread a layer of grease on them. Seal in a bag and wake in 2112 to see how it survived.
Heck, I have old short block engines sitting around fresh out of a vehicle from 20 years ago that the only prep work was to coat a layer of grease on the cylinder walls. I could wipe the grease off today, spray the block clean, and it would be ready to run. They aren't full of rust, so why would yours be if you take any precautions at all?
Oh, and wipe a layer of grease across the stamp pad. That is the only critical area that must be retained stock so take your precautions there.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,964
Likes: 419
From: Melbourne FL
Thanks Mark. I do live where the temps swing wildly and the humidity is often 100%....like it is right now!
I was stunned a few years ago about how bad the inside of my motor looked at after sitting several years still in the car. Of course I hadn't prepped it for storage as I had no idea it would be unused for so long but it's made me a wary of not doing enough.
Roger that on the stamp pad...the most important part!
I was stunned a few years ago about how bad the inside of my motor looked at after sitting several years still in the car. Of course I hadn't prepped it for storage as I had no idea it would be unused for so long but it's made me a wary of not doing enough.
Roger that on the stamp pad...the most important part!
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