Am I crazy to think I can get a decent daily driver, (C-2 roadster), for the low $20's?

How much does the value of a C-2 drop if it doesn't have an original motor?

Here's a description of a car: 1964 roadster, nice paint, (original red color, not paint), original red leather seats with 8" separation on driver side seam, faded, but, good carpet, NOM, (350/300), rust through on the drivers side rear bumper, poor rag top, non-working radio & clock & speedo & odo, hurst shift, decent tires, original caps.

I can replace the carpet, repair the seat cover and replace the bad bumper with my labor for about $500.00. I don't know what a top would cost, or, where to go for that.

Is this car worth $25K?

What's the best pocket book to have for checking codes?

Thanks,

MOA

 

A: If you are looking for something in the 20s don't even bother worrying about codes.
B: All the stuff in your sample car is manageable...however, you should be much more worried about the condition of the 'birdcage', frame and vintage electrical wiring.
C: Your aren't crazy....just somewhat delusional.

 

Low $20's will take a bunch of work. The mechanical things are most important, then the cosmetics. Does the frame have rust in the usual places. Is the birdcage rusted. NOM is it a bandaided engine, what about the suspension front and rear? Have the rear track arms been rebuilt? If you look at it, please take someone who is familiar with the midyear cars. Do you have any books on these cars? Ask all the questions you want. Dennis

 

The car you described, and your WTB post don't sound anything like the same car, the 64 sounds like a $25k car, the car you describe in your other post sounds like high 20's

And by the way welcome

 

see above

 

Since you're asking for opinions, I won't say crazy either, but I don't think you'll find a decent driver for low 20's. Many basket cases are bringing that. You can buy one that needs a lot of work and make it a decent driver, but you'll have more than that in it. If you do find one, buy it. You won't lose any money on it. Be careful of frame and birdcage rust. Good luck.

 

If you want a good pocket book for codes look for the Corvette Black Book

 

The qualifier in your question is the part about "daily driver". Very doubtful you will find a car in highly reliable condition to use for daily transportation for in the low 20s. All these cars leak in the rain (just about). Driving them in wet weather will just accelerate what ever rust they may already have. Starters will fail. Gas tanks are full of gunk. Brakes leak and lines need replacement. 45 year old, patched up Corvette wiring makes English Lucas electronics look like a model of reliability. Most of the car is relatively easy to work on mechanically but some components of the rear suspension take special tools and some knowledge. Most mechanics under the age of 45 aren't going to know what to do with a carb or points type distributor. Not a good plan for reliable transportation.

 

Ive been studying prices for a couple of years and think you are at least $10k low for a daily driver. More $$$ is required for a trouble free car, maybe a lot more. Have you thought about a C3? You can get a good daily driver chrome bumper C3 for the money you have. There is a nice C3 LS1 conversion for $25k and several others in your price range. Just my opinion and good luck.

 

Crazy... naaah we used to call that tripping on LSD back in the 60's.

 

I did almost 6 years ago when the prices were higher. Mine is a non matching numbers coupe, but I could care less. I have had way too much fun so far and bought mine for $20k. I wouldn't sell it for double that.

 

More than ikely, you'll have to keep putting money in it and will have over $30k in it by the time you make it a reliable driver.

 

these guys are spot on. To answer your question....YES, you are crazy!

If you find one in the low 20's you'll probably have to put another 6 or 8K in it to be be a reliable driver, so skip all the work and time down, and spring for a 28-32 driver with all that sorted out first. You'll be happier!

Just make damn sure you get an C2 vettenut to check it out in depth for you before you jump in.

 

 

I'm really embarassed to state this, however, I don't know what the term "birdcage" refers to. I imagine this has to do with the area from the firewall to the seating area. The 2nd item I hate to admit, is, I used to work on these cars from 1972 - 1974, (I was a "parts replacer", not a mechanic). Still, I want to exercise as much caution as I can purchasing a 48 y.o. automobile.

Other than broken leaf springs, would they lose their tension, what else is there to look for?

The car referred to in my thread is an actual car which can be purchased for $25K. It was owned by a "collector", however, he stored all his cars in a barn. This causes me concern in that moisture, (dew), within the barn would cause premature rusting because it stays in the ground longer than it would on a hard surface storage area.

Since this car is out of state, how do I "get" a vette expert to check it out? He says the car was checked out by several vette enthusiasts and they gave it a 4 out of 5, but, who's to say? Is a good idea to contact a local vette club and offer to hire someone?

As respects C-2 pricing, it's interesting that another part of the forum discusses how values have dropped since the "peak". And, yet, another thread reveals how the values could go to the wayside starting now and continue in as early as five years as us boomers reach our late 60's and 70's. What raises its ugly head now, is, is this the new "peak" and will values continue to decline as the younger gun's turn towards their drifter's? Given that I am usually ahead of the curve, am I recognizing something which just hasn't happened yet?

My son is questioning my sanity in wanting a C-2; no a/c, no technology, lack of a comfortable ride, it's old; get a new one he says. Kid's, ugh.

Thanks to all who responded,

MOA

 

Yes the bird cage is the underlying metal structure for the cowl and firewall etc..

If you have a bumper thats rusted though? There's a good chance serious rust lurks elsewhere.

You will get a lot from both sides on any opinion. When it comes to a rise in value? You have nothing to worry about. The C2 you mention will likely never return your money regardless of the market.

Spend 10k more and get a real driver.

 

 

Pay him no mind. When my son learned I was buying a C2, he asked, "Why would you buy an old car like that when you could get a Prius?"

-- Steve

 

I bought my coupe for low 20's and I would gladly drive it daily if I didnt live 500ft from work. There is always going to be some compromise at this price... I did much of the interior work you talked about myself (about $500 like you say), had to get the headlight motors running (no cost, easy job) etc... it was driven daily before, starts right up and goes great (although with 4:11's it is not a highway car).

Bird cage and frame are solid (check carefully, I pulled the glove box etc), but the body isnt "no hit" and the paint is old. Basically the perfect driver at a great price.

I wouldnt sell it for 40K now, its a fun car, lots of character. Just have to be patient, they come up but they sell fast, so be ready when they do.