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Yup! Provided by our own John Hinkley (JohnZ on the forum). I followed it exactly and had zero problems with my intake swap! Nice tips too - like using a 1" wooden dowel in the distributor hole to line things up when re-installing the intake (attached).
A few other tips:
1) Don't use those little rubber gaskets on each end of the intake unless the car will be judged - they are notorious for oil leaks (the article will tell you more).
2) Use thread sealer on intake bolts so you don't have oil 'wicking' up later onto the nice clean intake.
3) This is the time to decide to block off the intake heat riser passages using fuel injection gaskets if you haven't already done so....this helps reduce carb bowl heat and potential percolation. If you need more info on this I'll post it.
4) Make sure to torque the intake down in the proper sequence and with the right foot-lbs...
2) Use thread sealer on intake bolts so you don't have oil 'wicking' up later onto the nice clean intake.
3) This is the time to decide to block off the intake heat riser passages using fuel injection gaskets if you haven't already done so....this helps reduce carb bowl heat and potential percolation. If you need more info on this I'll post it.
4) Make sure to torque the intake down in the proper sequence and with the right foot-lbs...
Thanks again Frankie,
For thread sealer would you use blue lock tight?
Sure post the info on the block off.
A couple years ago I picked up a great torque wrench and use it often.
I used NAPA Permatex thread sealant - it doesn't have to be anything exotic to do the job.
The fuel injection gaskets provide factory metal block offs for the intake passages (yellow circle in the picture)...all the major vendors have these gaskets. Be forewarned...if you do not have an exhaust crossover pipe then this mod will affect your exhaust sound. Frankly it rankled me so I added an exhaust crossover under the oil pan to restore the sound...only cost about $80. The fuel injected cars had this as standard equipment.
I used JohnZ's great tip about the alignment dowel. I (no help) was putting the manifold on while the engine was in the car and slightly elevated. I used about a 7" piece of 1" PVC and cut kerfs to make it fit and it held itself in place snugly. Worked like a charm.