1960 Power Top Problem
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 514
Likes: 13
From: Rowlett Texas
1960 Power Top Problem
I have eliminated almost all of the problems with installation, but one remains. When the deck lid cylinder retracts, the paddle arm swings back and out. For some reason, the paddle arm swings back so far that it interfered with the cardboard divider. Short term solution, I cut a square out of the cardboard so the paddle end can protrude. I am using the original cylinder and clevis on the end of the cylinder, original paddle that i have confirmed with measurements on another paddle.
There is no adjustment on the paddle; it mounts to the cylinder with a pin and a small bolt. I adjusted the deck lid short arm up as high as it would go on the deck lid and that brought the paddle in a fraction of an inch.
Any suggestions on what else to adjust?
There is no adjustment on the paddle; it mounts to the cylinder with a pin and a small bolt. I adjusted the deck lid short arm up as high as it would go on the deck lid and that brought the paddle in a fraction of an inch.
Any suggestions on what else to adjust?
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,462
Likes: 1,293
From: minneola fl
The cardboard for power top cars is different than the non-power. It has a wider cutout on the drivers side (about 4 inches or so), and is molded with a "bulge" to accomodate the equipment behind it. If you look in Nolands book, there are several good pictures.
Mike Coletta
Mike Coletta
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 514
Likes: 13
From: Rowlett Texas
I wished the solution was that simple, but I have the bulged divider that I purchased from Al Knoch 20 years ago and they told me that the dividers being sold today are no different in shape than what I purchased 20 years ago. The divider I now have is bulged enough for the bottom cylinder bracket and motor/pump equipment; all bulged at the bottom, but I need more bulge near the top; about 3 inches down from the top edge.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,462
Likes: 1,293
From: minneola fl
Take a look at the pictures in Nolands book. It looks to me like the "bulges" start right near the top edge. You'll have to look at the pictures of a 61/2 or a 56/7, as there are no pictures of the 58/60. I did a 57 several years ago, and I think that I had to reform the cardboard to clear the paddle. It would be easy enough to do. Steam would probably be the best, but I think that if you sprayed it down with some water, and used something to make a form, that you could push it out a little, and let it dry (while on the form/mold)???
Mike Coletta
Mike Coletta
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 514
Likes: 13
From: Rowlett Texas
Mike, you got me thinking about reforming the divider ever since I read your post. I don't know how much give the cardboard, actually paperboard, has when wet. I need the bulge near the top expanded about 1/2" over a small area; maybe 4" x 4"; just a guess on the extra bulge size. I suppose I could experiment with my divider that already has a hole cut in it, but I would be able to determine how much give there is to the paperboard by wetting it and increasing the bulge at the top.
