1960 brake problems
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 23
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1960 brake problems
Hi everyone I am new to this forum and would like to say it is a blessing to be here. I have a problem with my 1960 when I apply the brakes hard it throws me pretty hard to the right. I took off the drums and noticed that the star wheel adjuster did not have the self adjusting lever on it.It was missing on both sides.I adjusted the brakes and she is stopping pretty straight now. I looked all over the place to see where I can purchace the lever and spring or to say the self adjusting repair kit to no avail. I can find the adjuster star wheel everywhere but not the lever and it's componants. Can anyone please help??
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
You adjust them by removing the block-off plug from the back of the brake backing plate, and then turning the star wheel through the exposed slot. They make a tool for this, you should be able to purchase at any auto parts store.
As for how often, I can't say.
As for how often, I can't say.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
The procedure is quite simple and doesn't have to be done all that often. Get a brake "spoon" at a local auto parts store and locate the slotted hole in the back of each drum in the bottom. This hole may have a small metal cover that will pop right off.
You put the spoon in and manually turn the star wheel until the tire can no longer be turned by hand (make sure your emergency brake is off when doing the rear brakes!).
Pushing the outer end of the tool upward tightens the brakes (e.g. expands the shoes).
Then back off from that point 8 clicks (some say 12 but its not critical).
You CAN convert the old C1 brakes to self-adjusting with some kits available from NAPA but its almost more trouble than it's worth. The adjustment procedure is in the ST-12 manual for these cars.
Guess what - you get to lube 24 grease fittings on the front end every 1,000 miles in these cars too. They are ONE HALF CENTURY old technology after all.
You put the spoon in and manually turn the star wheel until the tire can no longer be turned by hand (make sure your emergency brake is off when doing the rear brakes!).
Pushing the outer end of the tool upward tightens the brakes (e.g. expands the shoes).
Then back off from that point 8 clicks (some say 12 but its not critical).
You CAN convert the old C1 brakes to self-adjusting with some kits available from NAPA but its almost more trouble than it's worth. The adjustment procedure is in the ST-12 manual for these cars.
Guess what - you get to lube 24 grease fittings on the front end every 1,000 miles in these cars too. They are ONE HALF CENTURY old technology after all.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 5, 2012 at 09:39 PM.
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Race Director
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From: northern california
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
By the end of the day, I could do the job in under 10 minutes.
Jim
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 10
From: california
62 Jeff and Frankie's responses are right on. I think adjusting drum brakes has long ago almost become a lost art. Only us old drum brake guys know how to do it. The books used to say adjust the star wheel until the brake shoes just lock up to the drum, then go back 8 clicks.
I found with all drum brake cars, not just vettes (ALL THE CARS WITH DRUM BRAKES) it was faster and easiier on the lift to adjust all 4 brakes to the same slight drag, then just back off the star wheel 4 clicks.
In the 60s self adjusters for drum brakes showed up.
they were Cool, just back up and pump the brake pedal, one pump would = one click of the star wheel. In the early 70s i hated the self adjusters. After a brake job you would have to blindly shove both a small screwdriver through that slot in the backing plate to push the self adjuster away from star wheel, then get a brake a brake spoon in there to adust the shoes was a pain.
I have self adjusters on my 64 drum brake car, As long as the hardware is into spec they work way good.
I found with all drum brake cars, not just vettes (ALL THE CARS WITH DRUM BRAKES) it was faster and easiier on the lift to adjust all 4 brakes to the same slight drag, then just back off the star wheel 4 clicks.
In the 60s self adjusters for drum brakes showed up.
they were Cool, just back up and pump the brake pedal, one pump would = one click of the star wheel. In the early 70s i hated the self adjusters. After a brake job you would have to blindly shove both a small screwdriver through that slot in the backing plate to push the self adjuster away from star wheel, then get a brake a brake spoon in there to adust the shoes was a pain.
I have self adjusters on my 64 drum brake car, As long as the hardware is into spec they work way good.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Rancho Palos Verdes CA
DZAUTO (aka Tom Parsons) has written a few posts on adding the auto adjusting kits to these cars. I did it on my 1960 and it worked great. the link is below..............bret
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...heres-how.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...heres-how.html
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
Yes - that is what I was referring to. I bought the kits for the rear (I have discs up front) and with all respect to Tom....I threw the kits in the trash after screwing around with them for a few hours. I didn't feel like grinding down my anchor pin plates and getting new brake shoes for the job. For some really odd reason the shoes on the car didn't have the spring holes in the right spot (I have no explanation for that).
I adjust the brakes manually in 5 minutes when I am under the car doing the routine front end lube every few thousand miles. Frankly, with an original single master cylinder I like to personally 'eyeball' the brakes and look for leaking wheel cylinders, whacked out adjusters, boogered up brake lines, etc. on a regular basis anyway.
I adjust the brakes manually in 5 minutes when I am under the car doing the routine front end lube every few thousand miles. Frankly, with an original single master cylinder I like to personally 'eyeball' the brakes and look for leaking wheel cylinders, whacked out adjusters, boogered up brake lines, etc. on a regular basis anyway.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 6, 2012 at 10:57 AM.
Race Director
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From: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
Frank,
Since I redid the drum brakes (probably in 2003), and then put on the front discs in 2005, I have not needed to readjust the rears drums at all. More of a lack of driving the 62 much, than anything else (around 10K miles since the drum brake rebuild). The rear emer. brakes work great and have never needed to adjust the rear drums since then. And no "self adjusters"...........
Although the drums (including the fronts) will work well if in top notch shape, I would never go back to the front drums. After doing a complete drum rebuild (including the fronts at the time), and still have the drums brakes yank the steering left and/or right, I saw the light and went with the front discs, and everything was "right with the world"!
John (plasticman)
Since I redid the drum brakes (probably in 2003), and then put on the front discs in 2005, I have not needed to readjust the rears drums at all. More of a lack of driving the 62 much, than anything else (around 10K miles since the drum brake rebuild). The rear emer. brakes work great and have never needed to adjust the rear drums since then. And no "self adjusters"...........
Although the drums (including the fronts) will work well if in top notch shape, I would never go back to the front drums. After doing a complete drum rebuild (including the fronts at the time), and still have the drums brakes yank the steering left and/or right, I saw the light and went with the front discs, and everything was "right with the world"!
John (plasticman)
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
Absolutely - every classic car I've owned got converted to front discs (either by me or a prev owner). However, I now sense the 'ole "all drums vs disc brakes" debate rearing it's head. It's giving me MEGO (My Eyes Glaze Over)