65 Vert Front End Height

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Sep 7, 2012 | 09:03 AM
  #1  
I've read a ton of posts in in the archives, but have not been able to get a good answer for my issue. Maybe someone can offer up some advice.

I did an engine/trans swap in my '65 vert. Took out the original 327/300 - 4SPD and put in a 383/TKO 600. The issues is that the new engine has lots of aluminum and is lighter than the original. I rebuilt the front suspension during the swap (put the springs back since they were still fine) and now the front end sits too high. It is noticable just looking at it and I now have a bunch of camber. To fix, I am considering:

1. Cut the springs. I will probably get some new "shorter" springs so that I don't have to deal with the hassle of compressing the springs again and will still have some original/repro springs to put if back if desired.
2. Go with a set of QA1 coilovers. This is a more expensive option and my understanding is that I will have to cut the welded nuts off the lower control arms. Also, I'm not interested in making the car ride like a rock....

Lastly, I will be rebuilding the rear when I am done up front. It needs a new spring. Any comments on whether to go with an original or composite?

Thanks in advance
Greg
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Sep 7, 2012 | 09:19 AM
  #2  
It will likely shake down over time, but you need to make sure the springs are installed correctly. They should be installed into the upper tower so the spring has a marked convex bow. If it is straight and toward the outer side of the tower, the thing will never settle and ride hard.
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Sep 7, 2012 | 09:37 AM
  #3  
Quote: It will likely shake down over time, but you need to make sure the springs are installed correctly. They should be installed into the upper tower so the spring has a marked convex bow. If it is straight and toward the outer side of the tower, the thing will never settle and ride hard.
Thanks. They are definitely in there right. I had them in and out a couple of times during the rebuild to get them in the towers right. I just looked at them again and they are correct. The car has 1000 miles on it since the rebuild, so not thinking it will improve any more.
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Sep 7, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #4  
If you simply cut the springs , say 1/2 coil, it will lower it but also increase the spring rate. Why would coil overs make it ride like a truck ??? There are many, many spring rates available for them so ride and handling is very adjustable. I used to use stock car springs in my race car so there sould be many options there also. I would probably just go with a shorter softer (50lb ?) spring myself.
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Sep 7, 2012 | 01:24 PM
  #5  
Quote: . To fix, I am considering:

1. Cut the springs. I will probably get some new "shorter" springs so that I don't have to deal with the hassle of compressing the springs again and will still have some original/repro springs to put if back if desired.
Greg
If you decide to go with cutting say a half coil off of the springs I would not be concerned about a harder ride - you won't notice any. But, although changing springs isn't fun work, I would not cut new springs without trying them out first. They may work as is.
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Sep 7, 2012 | 01:34 PM
  #6  
Did you wait to tighten the a-arm bolts until the weight of the car was on the suspension?

David
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Sep 7, 2012 | 06:05 PM
  #7  
Quote: Did you wait to tighten the a-arm bolts until the weight of the car was on the suspension?

David
I'm assuming you mean the cross-shaft bolts? Yes.

I really think it is just the reduced weight. Seems like replacing the heads and intake with aluminum, reduced rotating assembly weight, aluminum carb, no fan shroud, no fan clutch, etc probably reduced the overall weight by over 100#.
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Sep 7, 2012 | 08:42 PM
  #8  
Quote: I'm assuming you mean the cross-shaft bolts? Yes.

I really think it is just the reduced weight. Seems like replacing the heads and intake with aluminum, reduced rotating assembly weight, aluminum carb, no fan shroud, no fan clutch, etc probably reduced the overall weight by over 100#.
Well throw a hundred pounds (wife?) up there and see.
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Sep 7, 2012 | 11:12 PM
  #9  
Quote: I'm assuming you mean the cross-shaft bolts? Yes.

I really think it is just the reduced weight. Seems like replacing the heads and intake with aluminum, reduced rotating assembly weight, aluminum carb, no fan shroud, no fan clutch, etc probably reduced the overall weight by over 100#.
I have a very similar setup and with the new springs that I put in didn't show a height increase. I would look at getting a different set of springs to try..

David
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Sep 7, 2012 | 11:15 PM
  #10  
Lastly, I will be rebuilding the rear when I am done up front. It needs a new spring. Any comments on whether to go with an original or composite?


I vote original....but i'm sure there are mixed feelings on that
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Sep 8, 2012 | 08:15 AM
  #11  
Quote: I have a very similar setup and with the new springs that I put in didn't show a height increase. I would look at getting a different set of springs to try..

David
David,
Did you put stock springs in all around?
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Sep 8, 2012 | 08:29 AM
  #12  
Quote: David,
Did you put stock springs in all around?
I did and have not cut anything to achieve the stance I have. The front fender lip is about 26.5 inches from the ground in my sig pic but it has not changed much with all the different tire and wheel setups I've run on the car.

David
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