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Why so many C2 cooling problems?

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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 12:01 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Hitch to be fair Mike never said he had problems on his trips after letting his car sit for all those years
There are a number of old cars I let sit idle but I've never had any unexpected problems out of any of them on trips.

But don't tell Hitch that.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 12:21 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
Because the engine (for whatever reason) is creating more heat than normal. Most likely this is a timing issue related to a defective vacuum advance can. You can call me tomorrow and we can discuss the things you did or didn't try yet 517-548-0600
Thanks Tom, I will take you up on that. I just got back from Hot rod week in OC and still had problems. I am determined to get this fixed.
Shemp
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 01:20 PM
  #63  
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I've never had an overheating Sting Ray and I've owned 21 of them, including in SoCal where the summers were plenty hot. Keep it all stock and you'll have no overheating problems. The '67 327 I've had for the past 10 years has a bit more HP than stock and never overheats, including during summer autocrosses with the A/C on! If the stock radiator ever gives up the ghost I'll get a DeWitt's replacement.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 02:26 PM
  #64  
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3 years ago i put a radiator made for a 4 cyl VW in my 61. it weighs 4.5#, holds only 40 OUNCES. never overheats, but does cruise at 190F vs 180.
I was inspired by all the guys here that have problems. I wanted to see how small it could be on a car that runs right. It cost $125 and i overpaid. Now i see them for $80
Got rid of the old fan/shroud.
Added undersize elec. fans that only draw 8A total. I use them only in slow/stopped traffic.

Last edited by Matt Gruber; Oct 7, 2012 at 02:39 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
3 years ago i put a radiator made for a 4 cyl VW in my 61. it weighs 4.5#, holds only 40 OUNCES. never overheats, but does cruise at 190F vs 180.
I was inspired by all the guys here that have problems. I wanted to see how small it could be on a car that runs right. It cost $125 and i overpaid. Now i see them for $80
Got rid of the old fan/shroud.
Added undersize elec. fans that only draw 8A total. I use them only in slow/stopped traffic.
Which doesn't last for too long with your 2-gallon gas tank.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 03:31 PM
  #66  
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i put only one, 1 gal tank in my 67

in my 61, when i stop for gas i get 3.5 gallons usually. in my 72 i get 3-5 gallons and my 72 has an 18 gal tank. Never gets past 3/8 tank.
After 5 years, i'm pleased with the gas capacity in my 61. I could up it to 7 gal in 5 min., but i've never needed more gas so i stick with 4. It never gets stale. And it never runs out of gas. It gets 14.5-18 mpg around town. Very hard to run out of gas when i know exactly how much is in there. I've never even had to switch from tank 1 to tank 2 during a trip. I do have a normal tank if i get a job in NJ and have to commute

Last edited by Matt Gruber; Oct 7, 2012 at 03:36 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 05:58 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by LouieM
I've never had an overheating Sting Ray and I've owned 21 of them, including in SoCal where the summers were plenty hot. Keep it all stock and you'll have no overheating problems. The '67 327 I've had for the past 10 years has a bit more HP than stock and never overheats, including during summer autocrosses with the A/C on! If the stock radiator ever gives up the ghost I'll get a DeWitt's replacement.
Well I'm glad to hear you have never had a problem, but I am having problems and everything is stock and I am having problems. So I guess that debunks your theory. Just sayin Shemp
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 08:15 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by shemp
Thanks Tom, I will take you up on that. I just got back from Hot rod week in OC and still had problems. I am determined to get this fixed. shemp
The first thing I'm going to have you check is the timing and vacuum can function. Hook up a timing light and log the timing setting at idle with the vacuum can hose connected and plugged. You should see about 15-18 degree difference if the can is working. Something like 8 deg advanced and then 22 deg with the vacuum can connected.
If you do not see this change when re-connecting the vacuum line, the diaphragm in the can is probably broken, if you see a small change it could be a ported (metered) vacuum connection.
To prove to yourself this vacuum can malfunction can cause idle over heating, just loosen the distributor and turn the timing up to about 22 degrees but don't drive the car this way. You will notice it will run cooler for much longer. Nine out of ten (90%) of the cases if idle overheating are related to timing issues. See John Z article on cooling issues for a detailed report on this subject.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 09:21 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by shemp
Well I'm glad to hear you have never had a problem, but I am having problems and everything is stock and I am having problems. So I guess that debunks your theory. Just sayin Shemp
It may be stock stuff but something is obviously not functioning correctly.
A buddy called me about an overheating issue with his 1959 270HP 283 that couldn't be solved. It would idle all day long and not over heat but as soon as you started driving, it got too hot. The local "expert" flushed the motor, new water pump, new thermostat, new hoses and it still got hot. He was then talked into a new radiator and it still got hot. Now he's into this several thousand dollars and still has a problem. I told him "It's in your distributor. The weights are probably rusted/stuck. Pop the cap and make sure they're free." 10 mins. and $0 later, the problem was fixed. The moral of the moral of the story, make sure the stuff you have is working correctly.

Jim
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 12:43 PM
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My comment might have sounded too smug, sorry. I sometimes did buy a Sting Ray that had overheating problems, then I put everything back to stock, but it still overheated. It turns out that one of the stock parts wasn't functioning properly. The posting by 1snake is a perfect example of a stock distributor not functioning right so making the car overheat. For your car it's time to check out the not-very-likely causes for overheating. Have you made sure the timing is spot on, and that the distributor parts are all the right ones and working right?


Originally Posted by shemp
Well I'm glad to hear you have never had a problem, but I am having problems and everything is stock and I am having problems. So I guess that debunks your theory. Just sayin Shemp
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 12:47 PM
  #71  
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I haven't seen any mention of the effects of cooling (or not) ability resulting from cylinder over-bore, or debris in the engine coolant passages.
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 01:32 PM
  #72  
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My 67 427 will overheat at idle if the vacuum can is connected to the stock ported vacuum source. When it's connected to manifold vacuum, no overheating.
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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If original cars didn't overheat back in the day and the same cars with stock configurations are overheating now, I think Al Gore should use that as additional proof of global warming .

-- Steve
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RatDog
If original cars didn't overheat back in the day and the same cars with stock configurations are overheating now, I think Al Gore should use that as additional proof of global warming .

-- Steve
yeah - musta been all they CO2 they produced over the years - it's their own fault - Karma (carma?)
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 02:16 PM
  #75  
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Idle speed too high burns more gas, makes more heat for the rad. to remove.
When my 61 idle was 800-900 it used 2 GPH of fuel. at 625 it uses 0.9 GPH. At that time i switched to a 4 hole carb base gasket from open center. Idle mix screws were 3 turns out w/open center, now 1.5 w/4 hole gasket.
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