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These are a new item. Probably not enough data from users to give an informed opinion. They certainly will not damage the pilot shaft on the transmission main drive gear. Kevlar is plastic. Cant imagine they would outlast the stock oilite bushings.
Do yourself a favor and get a roller pilot bearing.
I will now get jeers from half the foeum members and cheers from the other half lol
Stay away from roller pilot shaft bearings - bad news. Stick with a bronze bushing.
I agree, this is the second time I tried one and they suck! I had one fail 7-8 years ago and replaced it with the bronze type. So far everything is fine.
I needed one for another engine and I figured that since all the tranny guys on here recommend them I would try one again, thinking they must have them figured out by now. NOPE, still junk. Now I have to pull my trans again to replace it. Never again.
I agree, this is the second time I tried one and they suck! I had one fail 7-8 years ago and replaced it with the bronze type. So far everything is fine.
I needed one for another engine and I figured that since all the tranny guys on here recommend them I would try one again, thinking they must have them figured out by now. NOPE, still junk. Now I have to pull my trans again to replace it. Never again.
At the risk of pissing off half the forum members (the other half agrees with me), then why did the car manufacturers convert to roller pilot bearings? They clearly don't make too many mistakes and for some mysterious reason the roller pilot bearings in later model cars seem to work for hundreds of thousands of miles without any problems whatsoever.
Yes, we have figured it out. I'm still running mine from 2004 and no longer have pop out of 4th gear problems, thrown clutch hub damper springs and every other weird failure associated with worn bronze pilot bushings. I'm willing to wager that every roller pilot bearing conversion failure is a result of improper clutch installation. The plastic alignment tool that is supplied with most clutch kits is NOT adequate for this purpose. They allow enough clutch disk misalignment to require using the transmission bolts to pull the transmission into place. If you have to use the transmission mounting bolts to apply ANY pull-in force during installation, you WILL damage the needle rollers and the pilot bearing will eventually fail and/or damage the pilot shaft on the transmission main drive gear. This will not happen if you use a spare main drive gear for an alignment tool.
The question is about the Kevlar bearing, not roller bearings. Kevlar is nearly indistructable and would be an excellent option. It can stand tremendous heat and friction.
I've been jacking with old Chevys for about 50yrs and have always used the bronze bushings (YES, I've used a couple of roller pilot bearings and they have failed, and yes, I greased them, so I've returned to the bronze bushings). Also, $58 vs $5 is kind of hard for me to justify.
Here is a failed pilot bearing.
Here is what a failed pilot bearing can do to the end of an input shaft.
Another vote for using the oillite bronze pilot bushing.
If you want/need to install the needle bearing pilot, then make certain that you have a tool to install it in the crank correctly and without damage, AND that you use a dial indicator to verify bellhousing alignment (and correct with offset dowels if needed). The hardened needle bearings do not take kindly to any misalignment.
I've been jacking with old Chevys for about 50yrs and have always used the bronze bushings (YES, I've used a couple of roller pilot bearings and they have failed, and yes, I greased them, so I've returned to the bronze bushings). Also, $58 vs $5 is kind of hard for me to justify.
Here is a failed pilot bearing.
Here is what a failed pilot bearing can do to the end of an input shaft.
Tom Parsons
Thank you Tom - I hoped you would post that picture of a chewed up input shaft again. I have only tried a roller bearing once and I couldn't keep it seated in the crank. Fortunately I was having a trans problem after a rebuild and had to pull it a couple of times to fix. I got rid of it (pilot bearing) before it could do any lasting damage.
Another vote for using the oillite bronze pilot bushing.
AND that you use a dial indicator to verify bellhousing alignment (and correct with offset dowels if needed). The hardened needle bearings do not take kindly to any misalignment.
The question is about the Kevlar bearing, not roller bearings. Kevlar is nearly indistructable and would be an excellent option. It can stand tremendous heat and friction.
That's right Kevlar is great for bearing applications - you should see if you if you can come up with some Kevlar wheel bearings.
I bet they would be great for boat trailers - wouldn't rust when water got inside the hubs !!
I've been jacking with old Chevys for about 50yrs and have always used the bronze bushings (YES, I've used a couple of roller pilot bearings and they have failed, and yes, I greased them, so I've returned to the bronze bushings). Also, $58 vs $5 is kind of hard for me to justify.
Here is a failed pilot bearing.
Here is what a failed pilot bearing can do to the end of an input shaft.
Tom Parsons
Tom, that looks like 10 spline muncie. I have seen that failure mode too many times to even consider useing a roller bearing. The non magnetic bronze pilot bushing is the only way to go...
I have seen "Clutch dust" destroy more of those roller bearings than i can count. I would and never have installed one.
Back in the early 70s the roller bearing in the end of the crank was new tech, I did not buy into it. I saw too many cars come into my shop with chewed up input tranny shafts. When those roller bearings failed they also sometimes took out the crank. And
It's always the tinkerers that come up with these latest and greatest brainwaves - they have just enough knowledge to get themselves into trouble.
Guys with experience usually have better logic on the implications of so called "improvements" and "don't like to screw with stuff that works"
Indexing the bellhousing to the engine is always a good idea even with a bronze bushing. As long as you train yourself to not sit at a light or anywhere else for that matter,with the clutch needlessly pushed in - a bronze bushing should outlast our lifetime in most cases.
I've been jacking with old Chevys for about 50yrs and have always used the bronze bushings (YES, I've used a couple of roller pilot bearings and they have failed, and yes, I greased them, so I've returned to the bronze bushings). Also, $58 vs $5 is kind of hard for me to justify.
Tom Parsons
Amen!
roller bearings are a fools dream. with so many possible causes of failure its just crazy to risk so much for absolutely no gain. Bushings are just plain common sense.
I have seen thousands of dollars of damage caused by a failed roller bearing on countless occasions
Indexing the bellhousing to the engine is always a good idea even with a bronze bushing. As long as you train yourself to not sit at a light or anywhere else for that matter,with the clutch needlessly pushed in - a bronze bushing should outlast our lifetime in most cases.
If the clutch is pushed in doesn't that take the load off of the pilot bearing/bushing, and put it on the throwout bearing? Unless I am thinking backwards here (which has been known to happen) it seems like the effect is the opposite of what you are describing?
I would tend to agree with this if someone used a pilot needle bearing in an application where a bushing was originally specified.
There was a reason engineers specified the bushing (or the bearing) and I'm sure the rest of the design package complimented whichever choice the engineer picked.
Does anyone ever wonder why the BW/Muncie input shaft flops up and down and it's considered normaL?