I tried to replace my water pump tonight but had a hard time getting the four bolts to line up with the block. I removed the upper rubber motor mounts and tried to assemble the water pump and engine crossmember as a single unit. Is that the easiest way? It was difficult to keep the bolts, water pump, crossmember and gaskets aligned.

thanks for the help
Jerry

 

Insert two long studs into two of the bolt holes, then install the mount and pump. Having the rubber mounts out of the way helps.

 

Jeff

Are you saying to buy two bolts that are longer then the originals?

 

Two studs. The studs act as guide pins. Put the mount and pump on using the studs to help you align everything. Install two of the bolts, then remove the studs and replace with your pump bolts.

 

Sounds like a great way to do it. I wish I had known a few hours ago. I'll go to the hardware store in the morning and hopefully will have it done tomorrow.

I decided to replace the water pump and radiator because my car would get hot after running for about 20 -25 minutes. Until recently the car has not been run for approx. 15 years. I bought the car a few months ago. I have already replace the thermostat and can see it working/openning with the temp gauge.

When I pulled the water hose off of the pump the end of the hose had several rust particles/chunks which appeared to be blocking the flow a little. Should I be concerned about the heater core or something else? I did notice the end of the water outlet plug going into the water pump was rusted away which could account for some of the rust at the end of the hose.

thanks
Jerry

 

It's hard to know what kind shape the heater core is in. Coolant will sit in it, but will not be flowing through it until the heater valve is opened by ther heater **** cable. Once it flows, keep an eye out for leaks.

 

You can get exhaust manifold studs with the same threads at any auto parts store. There is also a theory off pre-torquing the water pump away from the direction of the engines normal torque to keep it from leaking. Can't hurt, but someone else will need to chime in for the direction of the pre-torque, as I don't remember.
Larry

 

Jerry,

I also use studs as Jeff has suggested. I purchase longer bolts, cut off the heads and use a hacksaw to cut a slot for a screw driver on the end. I have found it makes it a lot easier to remove them with a screwdriver.

 

And put some sealant on the threads of those water pump bolts......not on the temporary stud threads.

Plasticman

 

I make it even easier than that (but it is only of any value if you are NOT concerned with numbers matching and correctness).
I buy a length (USUALLY comes in 3ft sticks) of 3/8 stainless steel all thread and cut 4 pieces and make studs.
Then on those ultra rare ocassions that I have to pull the water pump, there are already studs in place. Just remove the nuts and you're in business-----------------------MUCH EASIER.
Oh ya, and by using stainless, you eliminate rusted/broken bolts in the block!

These pictures are below the cross over mount.





Tom Parsons

 

I think if you found rust in the coolant that I would at least flush the whole block...there are two plugs on each side of the block for that purpose. You might have to poke around with an awl in the hole if its rusted over to get it to drain. I was lucky and somebody put petcocks for drains on my original block.

If you think the heater core is 'iffy' and don't want to take a chance on getting stranded if it blows then you can put cut off valves in the heater hoses (I did to my '61 and leave the water cut off all summer). I have CarQuest part #s if you want them.

 

I installed the water pump late yesterday using the studs which made the job a whole lot easier. I also installed a new DeWitts radiator and radiator cap (7 lbs)

I have to replace or tighten a leaking hose clamp today and test they system.

On a different subject - I have tried using the Search function for previous topics on the Forum. Is their a way to search for multiple words such as "water pump"? It seems like I am getting every posting using the word "water" and "pump".

thanks for the help
Jerry

 

If you search for water pump you will get posts with the word water, or the word pump in them.

If you search for "water pump" you will get posts with the 2 word phrase "water pump" appearing together in a string.

 

I got the bolts lose on each side of the block so I can flush the engine block. What is the best way to flush? I have never done this before.

thanks for the help
Jerry

 

Here's one way...(if you had a heavy buildup)
Basically flush till clean, then refill with the right stuff...And don't burn yourself!

Caution: antifreeze is poison to pets!


If your engine is put back together, and the drain plugs are out, and you have "juked" out any gunk around the block drains, you could move the car outside, fill up the radiator with a throttled water hose until it overflows slightly, and crank up the engine and do some flushing that way. Turn off engine after a while, turn off water, let it drain completely, reinstall plugs, put in some heavy duty cleaner, refill with water, drive it for 5-50 miles, shut down and cool, drain system via block plugs and drains, close back up, put more water in and crank up engine with cap off, add water as needed. Drain, check for clarity. If clear, drain completely, close off drains/plugs, refill with distilled water and AF. Open heater to hot while doing above to move water through heater.

Remember that excessive water overflowing the fill cap with engine running will splash everywhere. And do not remove a hot pressurized cap! Let it bleed off.......

Put some anti seize/sealant on block drains when you reinstall, the allen head plugs are the best for future removals..

 

a small tip if the cooling system has a leak..release the radiator cap to the first notch...thus removing the pressure the cap provides and it will not be blowing the coolant out the overflow.....you should be able to run with confidence only losing a small amount of coolant over time as a drip and not overheat either.....works with blown head gaskets or a bad heater core...... even a cracked waterpump allowing you to continue in an emergency far from home........

now be sensible, if its running out as fast as you pore coolant into the radiator this will not work...... .