THIS is rust free frame
10-15-2012, 02:04 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
THIS is rust free frame
Not bad for being 51 one years old, and never touched, other than with a scraper and wire brush today.
Finally have the other project off the lift, so time for some under body detail on the '61 now that i have a lift,
Nice virgin, bright metal, that little bit of rust stain will come off with a wire wheel, even the rear cross member is clean, I think the gobby weld had to d with either a tow hitch, or maybe some thing related to drag racing, bases on the wheelie bar brackets i removed after I bought the car in 1974. You can still see the forming marks on the rear crossmember
Doug
Finally have the other project off the lift, so time for some under body detail on the '61 now that i have a lift,
Nice virgin, bright metal, that little bit of rust stain will come off with a wire wheel, even the rear cross member is clean, I think the gobby weld had to d with either a tow hitch, or maybe some thing related to drag racing, bases on the wheelie bar brackets i removed after I bought the car in 1974. You can still see the forming marks on the rear crossmember
Doug
Last edited by AZDoug; 10-15-2012 at 02:07 PM.
10-15-2012, 02:16 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Not bad for being 51 one years old, and never touched, other than with a scraper and wire brush today.
Finally have the other project off the lift, so time for some under body detail on the '61 now that i have a lift,
Nice virgin, bright metal, that little bit of rust stain will come off with a wire wheel, even the rear cross member is clean, I think the gobby weld had to d with either a tow hitch, or maybe some thing related to drag racing, bases on the wheelie bar brackets i removed after I bought the car in 1974. You can still see the forming marks on the rear crossmember
Doug
Finally have the other project off the lift, so time for some under body detail on the '61 now that i have a lift,
Nice virgin, bright metal, that little bit of rust stain will come off with a wire wheel, even the rear cross member is clean, I think the gobby weld had to d with either a tow hitch, or maybe some thing related to drag racing, bases on the wheelie bar brackets i removed after I bought the car in 1974. You can still see the forming marks on the rear crossmember
Doug
Jim
10-15-2012, 03:03 PM
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Well, based on the usual internet descriptions, it IS rust free, when "light rust"= frame weighs half as much a it used to and has gaping holes, "surface rust"= has not rusted through yet, but after sandblasting the rust off, it has the texture of an asphalt road.
That little bit of stain here and there,will come off with a wire wheel, and not leave pits.
Doug
That little bit of stain here and there,will come off with a wire wheel, and not leave pits.
Doug
10-15-2012, 03:14 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Well, based on the usual internet descriptions, it IS rust free, when "light rust"= frame weighs half as much a it used to and has gaping holes, "surface rust"= has not rusted through yet, but after sandblasting the rust off, it has the texture of an asphalt road.
That little bit of stain here and there,will come off with a wire wheel, and not leave pits.
Doug
That little bit of stain here and there,will come off with a wire wheel, and not leave pits.
Doug
Jim
10-15-2012, 03:47 PM
#6
Team Owner
Very nice....my '61 frame has one of those 'gob' welds at the radius arm bracket...but its rock solid and rust free. I'll grind it back some day I guess.
Just wish my PO had powder coated the frame when the car was apart. Touching up the frame without a lift is a PITA.
Just wish my PO had powder coated the frame when the car was apart. Touching up the frame without a lift is a PITA.
10-15-2012, 04:22 PM
#7
Race Director
Thread Starter
More like almost impossible.
Years ago I scraped as much crud as I could off, while on my back, with the car on jackstands, you couldn't reach half the places,and you got crap all over you.
The four post lift is letting me get to all those places, with tools i couldn't have gotten in position, from the ground.
two or three half days with a wire wheel, scraper and wire brush, followed by a good wipe down with lacquer thinner, followed by a rattle can of satin black paint, will get it looking pretty good.
The only thing that would be better, was if i has one of those high pressure industrial hot water spray cleaners, though you need one of those hooded white chemical suits to keep dry during that process.
Doug
Years ago I scraped as much crud as I could off, while on my back, with the car on jackstands, you couldn't reach half the places,and you got crap all over you.
The four post lift is letting me get to all those places, with tools i couldn't have gotten in position, from the ground.
two or three half days with a wire wheel, scraper and wire brush, followed by a good wipe down with lacquer thinner, followed by a rattle can of satin black paint, will get it looking pretty good.
The only thing that would be better, was if i has one of those high pressure industrial hot water spray cleaners, though you need one of those hooded white chemical suits to keep dry during that process.
Doug
10-15-2012, 04:28 PM
#9
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The frame looks pretty solid - a good powder coating would really protect it and make it look great.
10-15-2012, 05:38 PM
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
Body has never been off the car, i never saw the need as the frame didn't need any work, I removed and rebuilt the front cross member and rear axle assembly maybe 15 years ago.The car spent its first 19 years in Idaho and Montana, even though it snowed, back then, they didn't use salt as it was too cold for salt to do any good. I think it was too cold for the rust oxidation process to occur.... The soil up there isn't acidic, either, like in the rust belt.
After that, it was CA and Arizona.
Doug
10-16-2012, 12:15 PM
#13
Safety Car
10-16-2012, 12:33 PM
#14
The car spent its first 19 years in Idaho and Montana, even though it snowed, back then, they didn't use salt as it was too cold for salt to do any good. I think it was too cold for the rust oxidation process to occur.... The soil up there isn't acidic, either, like in the rust belt.
After that, it was CA and Arizona.
Doug
After that, it was CA and Arizona.
Doug
Body has never left the frame and I want to repaint the frame. How will you paint the tops of the frame while body is on? I guess you could mask the fiberglass tub, but how would you wire brush and repaint the tops?
10-16-2012, 03:21 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
No doubt, are you volunteering to do all the body off and dis assembly and reassembly labor?? Body has never been off the car, i never saw the need as the frame didn't need any work, I removed and rebuilt the front cross member and rear axle assembly maybe 15 years ago.
The car spent its first 19 years in Idaho and Montana, even though it snowed, back then, they didn't use salt as it was too cold for salt to do any good. I think it was too cold for the rust oxidation process to occur.... The soil up there isn't acidic, either, like in the rust belt.
After that, it was CA and Arizona.
Doug
Body has never been off the car, i never saw the need as the frame didn't need any work, I removed and rebuilt the front cross member and rear axle assembly maybe 15 years ago.The car spent its first 19 years in Idaho and Montana, even though it snowed, back then, they didn't use salt as it was too cold for salt to do any good. I think it was too cold for the rust oxidation process to occur.... The soil up there isn't acidic, either, like in the rust belt.
After that, it was CA and Arizona.
Doug
One thing to keep in mind about classics from the "rust-belt" is they most often spend at least half of every year stored away, unused. I'm in Toronto, Canada and the frame of both my '75 Silverado and '65 Corvette look fantastic
... but neither have been left exposed to winter roads.
10-16-2012, 04:06 PM
#16
Race Director
Thread Starter
Doug