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Well, I got tired of waiting for the temps to cool down, so I could paint, and just bit the bullet and braved the hot,humid weather. Got it all shot without dripping sweat in the fresh paint. color sanded it and buffed the first pass on it today with a wool pad. I have two more passes with medium and fine foam pad, but I will wait on those until the body is all assembled and back on the chassis. If past experience is any indicator. I will have at least a couple of nicks or dings to touch-up before I have it all together
Saddle!! You'll never regret it. I've had four Vettes of different vintages with four different exterior colors......all were Saddle. Two of them, Black and White were ordered with Saddle (or Lt. Oak) and were head turners.
That is the finest application of primer I have ever seen. When I was stripping my 63 all those years ago the primer color was much darker. What is the final color going to be on the body?
Just kidding. Looks great. If I had an inkling of the talent you possess with that spray gun I would consider myself blessed.
That is the finest application of primer I have ever seen. When I was stripping my 63 all those years ago the primer color was much darker. What is the final color going to be on the body?
Just kidding. Looks great. If I had an inkling of the talent you possess with that spray gun I would consider myself blessed.
Rich
The color is Viper red, but I used it so often, that the guy at the local PPG distributor, calls it John McGraw Red!
Trust me when I tell you that this paint job was full of orange peel and dry spots. I only had 70 degree thinner, because the weather man told us that the temp was going to cool off, but it was about 90 degrees on the day I painted! Thank goodness for wet-or-dry sandpaper. You just spray on enough paint, and then sand away anything that does not look like a Corvette!
This is one of the reasons that I love single stage paint so much.
That looks great.
Did you have to modify the interior/tunnel for the new chassis and drivetrain?
DonO
Don,
No I changed the game plan and did not use the 6L transmission. After the Chevelle, I just decided that it is just too much work to make the trans fit. I was pretty much locked into the 6L with the LSA, but once I decided to use the 480 LS3, it allowed me to use the 4L70E trans. Of course, I had to cut out the crossmember, and move it forward. I also lowered the rear of the trans mount 1/4", which got rid of the interference of the tunnel on the 4L case that I had on the convertible. I did not have to grind the boss off the case like I did on that car.
If there is any one thing I could bitch about with the SRIII frame, it is the difficulty in moving the trans crossmember. I wish Mike would make it so that it could be moved along an adjustable mounting plate on the chassis. Of course, I had to dramatically modify everything aft of the seats to get that suspension and huge tires under there.
Regards, John McGraw
Last edited by John McGraw; Oct 22, 2012 at 01:14 PM.
Did you paint it in the garage that the car is in now, or in a booth?
Nope, I painted it in the same shop. Everything in the garage is on wheels, so I just move everything out to the other garage, clean the hell out of the shop, cover the floors and walls with plastic, and I am ready to paint. I install filters in all 4 windows, and install a piece of plywood in the walk door that has a big fan in it. The fan pulls in clean, filtered air through the windows, and blows out the door. It ain't perfect, but it is acceptable. Even a moderate amount of dust can be color-sanded out before the buffing.
I make more of a mess color-sanding, than I do painting! I was hoping to be able to do all the color-sanding out on the drive, but we have had unseasonably warm and humid weather, so I just stayed inside in the air conditioning!
Looks great! How does the single stage compare to BC/CC for durability and touch ups/repairs?
I would say that the durability is pretty much the same, since the DCC color is pretty much the same formulation as the PPG clears, minus the pigment. Same reducers, same hardeners, and same application. As for touch-ups, I find it way easier to touch-up and blend. If you scratch a BC/CC finish down to the base coat, you need to blend the basecoat and then overlap with the clear by a substantial amount and try and blend it in. With Single-stage, I just get out the airbrush, spot paint, sand the following day with 2000, and buff the repair. As you can see, there is no problem getting a deep shine with single-stage.
Also, single stage will never DE-laminate like clear coats can if they are not properly crosslinked.
Of course, for metallics, a BC/CC is the only way to go, but for solid colors, I will always use single-stage.
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