fatboy34

Found a nice hardtop to put on my 58 , but the passenger side was not back far enough for the window to shut correctly , had to roll window down close door and then roll window back up, still have not put holes in deck lid because I need to get it lined up correctly,
I took the top to my body guy as he was going to touch up a spot on my rear fender anyway and figured he could line it up and put the holes in deck.I drove with top sitting on car and only latched in front, it was only about ten miles at a top speed of about 40, other than the rubber going to rub the deck ,I was not to worried about the drive.
While waiting on the car I started searching and reading all or most of the threads related to hardtop fitting issues on our forum here. I may have missed one or two but I gained a lot of insight . Back window got buffed out as per a scary thread about sanding and compounding the plexiglass and it came out almost clear as a bell , very nice , then read about measuring from one pin to another on top and from locater holes in windshield to rear holes behind doors to see if all is square.
So body guys calls to pick up car, says he really wants me to replace front header seal as it is messed up a little , I told him I have a new one at home as well as new seals where the top of door glass sits, all the other seals are in great shape. N
When I get to shop to pick up car ,was told some water came in through windshield as it didn't fit quite right now at top of frame, as I checked it out the windshield glass was coming out of the rubber seal in the windshield frame !!! I was like holy crap how did that happen, they say they don't know , only thing I can figure is the weight of top was pulling back on the windshield frame on trip to shop,I finally got the windshield to seat back in frame ( a nightmare I might add) , so now back to the top not fitting , sorry this is so long, I measured the car and the distance was the same on bothe side 31 1/2 inches from front hole to back, then I measured the top,the driver side from front pin to back pin 31 3/4 , and passenger side was 31 1/4 , on car passenger side is off by about the same 1/2 difference , the rubber in front of the little quarter window is about a 1/2 inch to forward , drivers side fits ok but could go back a hair,
My main question ( finally ) is , I there a way to adjust the front header bar on top to make up for the difference , seems like it needs to twist about 1/4 inch and all would be right, I searched for a thread about removing the header bar , really only need to loosen and twist, can someone tell me how this can be done. Thanks

fatboy34

After consuming an adult beverage , I went out to remeasure and the drivers side of the hardtop was still 31 3/4 from pin to pin , but the passenger side was right at 31 1/2 ,so only off by 1/4 , I then pulled out the front pins and measured how far into the header bar they were drilled and drivers side was almost 1/2 to edge of hole and passenger was only 1/4 to edge , so now what do you think is the best way to square up top?

MOXIE62

I do not have an answer for you as I've owned several cars with hardtops and all of them had fit issues when it came to the windows. Like you I"ve had to roll window down to be able to shut door. Hopefully someone will jump in on this thread because even though I do not have a hardtop, I would like to know what the answer is.

dharris45

This may not be the answer, but I have been told that the windows have to be adjusted to fit the hardtop first, then the soft top and frame are adjusted to fit the windows.

Don

fatboy34

I have also read about adjusting to hardtop first, but I think the first thing I need to do is to get the top square , I just finished putting in the front header weatherstrip and the layering the strip on top of window , drivers side fit perfect , passenger side was about 3/8 to long , so far everything is screwed up in the right direction !, , I also noticed there was 1 screw at each end of header bar under the top side weather strip , this screw appears to be one of ? Holding the header bar in place , I also see a screw under the chrome piece ( gap cover ) in center of bar , the single screw at the ends of bar looks like it has two possible holes that it could be screwed into about 1/4 inch apart, the drivers side is in the forward hole while the passenger is in the back hole , if I could twist header bar 1/4 inch I could get the screw on passenger side into forward hole , I think that would solve most of my problems , but how to loosen header bar??? Anyone?

wombvette

I betting the tabs are broken on the windshield posts causing the top of the frame to move back when the top is latched.

You have to adjust the windows to fit the hard top, and then the soft top frame to the windows.

Pilot Dan

You will have to deal with the windshield side posts first. The windshield needs to come off the car and be disassembled for that. They can be sent out and remachined with new steel tabs. There is no point in trying to fit the top or making any holes in the deck lid without a solid windshield frame. Pilot Dan

Ironcross

Hardtops don't move providing no one has screwed with it over the years...they should fit without any problems....It comes from replaced soft tops that was installed too tight and can actually pull the glass from the windshield ....something has to give and the 'A pillar probably has the situation 'Dan has mentioned.....then fit the car to the hardtop and I`ll bet it will then be square....but the pillars have to be removed and repaired

I would not drill anything before this is thoroughly checked

fatboy34

Thanks for the replys, unfortunately for me I think wombvette and Dan are correct in their assessment of the pillar , I removed the stainless off of the header strip on the hardtop , as I read in one of the posts that I had searched out , the poster thought the header could be moved in and out a little bit which could have cured my pin difference issues with the top , but after removing stainless to gain access to the screws underneath I found they would not allow any movement and also held the back clips in place for the stainless header cover, so I put it all back together ,it really will only go one way, replaced all the weatherstrip, and now looks like I will have to deal with this dang windshield issue,
You know, as I was sitting there in my garage having a cold beverage listening to the blues and dealing with the frustration and disappointment of another major issue with this car, I just look at the body lines and how really cool these cars are and just smile at how lucky I am to have one of these icons to be mad at !!!

Frankie the Fink

Get the pillars repaired and they will NEVER be a problem again!

Mine were done by the previous owner...

fatboy34

Frankie, Thanks for the pic , I was not sure exactly how to go about this , I will also replace windshield while I have it apart , was thinking of just getting a complete new unit , does anyone take the old unit in for trade? If not I will get new glass ,rubber and repair pillars , from previous posts this job does not sound fun , I can feel more Blues and beer in my future!

Frankie the Fink

Corvette Central, Virginia Vettes and other vendors offer the windshield pillar tab reinforcement service...prices are like $80 apiece but its worth it for an experienced machinist to do it. I have seen entire replacement windshield ***'ys for sale at places like the NCRS regionals in Kissimmee, FL (coming up this January). They look good and I've seen them as low as $1,800 dollars if you negotiate - but I have no personal knowledge of the fit when installed. I'm a big fan of getting original parts to work properly anytime you can.

R&Ring a C1 windshield frame is no fun...and replacing the glass adds an extra dimension of trouble. Some say they would rather pull a motor! I R&R'ed my frame but had a pro actually put the glass in.