Need perspective from experienced restorers...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 1
From: Ball Ground Georgia
Need perspective from experienced restorers...
I am stripping the car and seeing a number of layers of paint and need your observations on what I am seeing....pic below. On most of the car I am seeing several coats of red, it razors off very dusty. I did capt lees on the hood surface today and it made the red very soft and it peeled right off with the razor. The grey underneath did not come off well with the fist application. I have not tried another spray of stripper yet. The grey is very thick, I initially thought it was the original silver since it was on top of what appears to be the original brown primer. Below the brown is a white colored layer then the grey smooth fiberglass which feels like it has a clear oat over it. In some areas there is a turquoise either on or under the grey "primer". I assume the "primer grey" is some type of sealer coat...in some areas it is extremely thick. The underside of the hood jus has dark grey fiberglass then a white coat and then a light grey coat then the red on top. Any insights are appreciated.
Safety Car
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Looks like it's going to take a lot of Captain Lee's. The turquoise is body filler. The rest is probably all paint and a couple layers of two different primers. Have you thought about soda blasting?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 1
From: Ball Ground Georgia
I thought about it but I want to do as much of this restore "hands on" as I can. I just seem to get a much deeper appreciation for the final product when I do it the old hard way. I know that seems stupid or foreign to a lot of people, but I grew up working around cars and I just enjoy spending the time in the shop.
The captain lees sure took less time. I did the top of the hood in about 20 min. The underside took about 2 hours to get the same amount of progress. Tomorrow I'll do a second application on the hood top and see if most of the grey sealer will come off. The hood is good practice, I'll hope for good weather so I can roll it outside and do the rest of the car with the stripper. I think I'll pull the body and roll it outside on the body dolly...that will be easier.
The captain lees sure took less time. I did the top of the hood in about 20 min. The underside took about 2 hours to get the same amount of progress. Tomorrow I'll do a second application on the hood top and see if most of the grey sealer will come off. The hood is good practice, I'll hope for good weather so I can roll it outside and do the rest of the car with the stripper. I think I'll pull the body and roll it outside on the body dolly...that will be easier.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,078
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From: Riverhead New York
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,640
Likes: 67
From: Livin' large and havin' fun in wonderful Oklahoma
The captain lees sure took less time. I did the top of the hood in about 20 min. The underside took about 2 hours to get the same amount of progress. Tomorrow I'll do a second application on the hood top and see if most of the grey sealer will come off. The hood is good practice, I'll hope for good weather so I can roll it outside and do the rest of the car with the stripper. I think I'll pull the body and roll it outside on the body dolly...that will be easier.
Captain Lee's will get the job done. Patience will play a big part as there is a lot of material on the hood and possibly the rest of the car. The warmer it is will have the active ingredients in CL's to work faster and additionally more agressively.....the cooler, just the opposite. I've used CL's on numerous Corvettes with good success. I cannot state strongly enough that CL's needs to be neutralized by washing....washing and washing. CL's is a good product hard to hurt the glass by repeated applications. Just remember this....Be patient and remember to nuetralize.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 1
From: Ball Ground Georgia
Thanks Mike,
I was/am paranoid and washed the heck out of that hood after the first application (along with scuff pad as per directions). Hopefully we'll get a good warm weekend so I can do it all outside. applying in the shop then rolling outside to rinse will be a PITA (no floor drain in my shop). Jug says 50-90 degrees is the recommended temp range for applying the product.
I was/am paranoid and washed the heck out of that hood after the first application (along with scuff pad as per directions). Hopefully we'll get a good warm weekend so I can do it all outside. applying in the shop then rolling outside to rinse will be a PITA (no floor drain in my shop). Jug says 50-90 degrees is the recommended temp range for applying the product.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: azusa,ca.,usa
stripper
Fully understand the desire to do it yourself. Some others may have done this hundreds of times but few will care more about personal involvment, enjoy the work, willing to spend the time and care about the outcome than you.
In the second picture there are some straight line cuts. I suspect the razor was held at a slght twist so an edge dug in, or a chip in the blade, or blades need to be changed more often. Keep the sliding angle as low as you can but you probably learned that as I did.
On the stripper you might try warming up the panel b4 applying the stripper. Small space heater 4-5 feet away from work piece that is standing up. Surface should be warm to your hand but no where close to hot. Stripper will work both better and faster. Mel
In the second picture there are some straight line cuts. I suspect the razor was held at a slght twist so an edge dug in, or a chip in the blade, or blades need to be changed more often. Keep the sliding angle as low as you can but you probably learned that as I did.
On the stripper you might try warming up the panel b4 applying the stripper. Small space heater 4-5 feet away from work piece that is standing up. Surface should be warm to your hand but no where close to hot. Stripper will work both better and faster. Mel
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,640
Likes: 67
From: Livin' large and havin' fun in wonderful Oklahoma
Thanks Mike,
I was/am paranoid and washed the heck out of that hood after the first application (along with scuff pad as per directions). Hopefully we'll get a good warm weekend so I can do it all outside. applying in the shop then rolling outside to rinse will be a PITA (no floor drain in my shop). Jug says 50-90 degrees is the recommended temp range for applying the product.
I was/am paranoid and washed the heck out of that hood after the first application (along with scuff pad as per directions). Hopefully we'll get a good warm weekend so I can do it all outside. applying in the shop then rolling outside to rinse will be a PITA (no floor drain in my shop). Jug says 50-90 degrees is the recommended temp range for applying the product.
I used a lot plastic on my floors to catch remnants coming off the car....and of course had to roll outside for clean up.
That may be correct on temp range but again the warmer it is the more active CL's will be, the cooler just the opposite. Stay steady my friend....it's a marathon, not a sprint.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 1
From: Ball Ground Georgia
Fully understand the desire to do it yourself. Some others may have done this hundreds of times but few will care more about personal involvment, enjoy the work, willing to spend the time and care about the outcome than you.
In the second picture there are some straight line cuts. I suspect the razor was held at a slght twist so an edge dug in, or a chip in the blade, or blades need to be changed more often. Keep the sliding angle as low as you can but you probably learned that as I did.
On the stripper you might try warming up the panel b4 applying the stripper. Small space heater 4-5 feet away from work piece that is standing up. Surface should be warm to your hand but no where close to hot. Stripper will work both better and faster. Mel
In the second picture there are some straight line cuts. I suspect the razor was held at a slght twist so an edge dug in, or a chip in the blade, or blades need to be changed more often. Keep the sliding angle as low as you can but you probably learned that as I did.
On the stripper you might try warming up the panel b4 applying the stripper. Small space heater 4-5 feet away from work piece that is standing up. Surface should be warm to your hand but no where close to hot. Stripper will work both better and faster. Mel
Good eye Mel, those were places where I didn't overlap the scrape completely and a small "sliver" of the top layers stayed behind. Some of them were thin and looked like lines in the paint. At first I freaked thinking I had gouged but I have been very careful per all the posts on here. Thankfully I went back over it with the blade and those slivers just peeled right off
Looking forward to getting home soon to try a second round tonight on that hood and see how the underlayers of paint come off....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Miami FL
I covered the stripper with a layer of cling wrap (thin plastic wrap you use on food). Helped keep it moist and active.
Also, I use Soft Scrub as my final scrub with a 3M pad and rise with water. The Soft Scrub did a great job of removing the last of the primer and helped neutralize the stripper. Learned this trick here on CF.
I feel your pain.... stripping a car is no fun but you will get IMMENSE satisfaction when you're done. Stay on it!!
Joe
Also, I use Soft Scrub as my final scrub with a 3M pad and rise with water. The Soft Scrub did a great job of removing the last of the primer and helped neutralize the stripper. Learned this trick here on CF.
I feel your pain.... stripping a car is no fun but you will get IMMENSE satisfaction when you're done. Stay on it!!
Joe
Last edited by JoeCool66; Nov 26, 2012 at 04:51 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 1,975
From: Temple Terrace Florida
Stripper
I have done a few vettes with stripper. I would work on a small area at a time, maybe 2' by 2'. I did not have to use razor blades. I used old credit cards and plastic scrapers. I had about 4 coats of top coat and a few more of primer. I used denatured alcohol as a rinse agent. For tight spots, I used old tooth brushes. I also used 3M pads throughout. Lastly, use eye protection, gloves and keep the windows open. I let the car sit a few months to vent off any gas to prevent solvent pop. Good luck. Jerry
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 1
From: Ball Ground Georgia
2nd application this evening with better results. Found out if it doesn't get it all then spray that area again while you keep moving.
What it the first white layer on top of the glass? Factory primer or sealer? The glass has a clear coat I assume is the gelcoat?... Few more interior items hoping to pull the body this weekend.
What it the first white layer on top of the glass? Factory primer or sealer? The glass has a clear coat I assume is the gelcoat?... Few more interior items hoping to pull the body this weekend.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 8,506
Likes: 3
From: Calhoun, GA_______ Let It Rock
Steve,
Be sure that you know where the bonding strip seams are located on the front clip and rear qtr. panels. I would put masking tape over them and carefully hand sand those places.
Be sure that you know where the bonding strip seams are located on the front clip and rear qtr. panels. I would put masking tape over them and carefully hand sand those places.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 1
From: Ball Ground Georgia
Is that because the stripper can work down in the seam and affect the bonding adhesive?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 1
From: Ball Ground Georgia
When I stripped my car I have the grey fiberglass, in areas where it was covered with paint it is smooth and has a shine to it, some areas where the paint popped off it appears duller and not as slick. On top of that is that white looking coat, then red primer on top of that, then the grey primer/filler coat that is thick just before the current red paint. I don't understand why then the white coat is on top of the fiberglass and then the red primer. Is it possible they went all the way down to bare fiberglass when they repainted the car? Possibly is the hood a replacement? The underside of the hood only has fiberglass, then white, then a light grey, then red finish coat...(no red primer at all)...
All of the areas of the car so far have had the same coat order as the hood. Base fiberglass, white coat, red primer, grey sealer, red finish coats.
Thanks if anyone can clarify....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 8,506
Likes: 3
From: Calhoun, GA_______ Let It Rock
Yep, some people even grind it out and replace it with modern filler when re-painting these days. There was a problem with it shrinking and showing through the topcoat. Just check out all the seams really well before painting it. Hit it with guide coat or something to see if they show.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
John Z, thanks for the info and pardon me for asking a bunch of follow questions since I appear to be the village idiot here
When I stripped my car I have the grey fiberglass, in areas where it was covered with paint it is smooth and has a shine to it, some areas where the paint popped off it appears duller and not as slick. On top of that is that white looking coat, then red primer on top of that, then the grey primer/filler coat that is thick just before the current red paint. I don't understand why then the white coat is on top of the fiberglass and then the red primer. Is it possible they went all the way down to bare fiberglass when they repainted the car? Possibly is the hood a replacement? The underside of the hood only has fiberglass, then white, then a light grey, then red finish coat...(no red primer at all)...
All of the areas of the car so far have had the same coat order as the hood. Base fiberglass, white coat, red primer, grey sealer, red finish coats.
Thanks if anyone can clarify....
When I stripped my car I have the grey fiberglass, in areas where it was covered with paint it is smooth and has a shine to it, some areas where the paint popped off it appears duller and not as slick. On top of that is that white looking coat, then red primer on top of that, then the grey primer/filler coat that is thick just before the current red paint. I don't understand why then the white coat is on top of the fiberglass and then the red primer. Is it possible they went all the way down to bare fiberglass when they repainted the car? Possibly is the hood a replacement? The underside of the hood only has fiberglass, then white, then a light grey, then red finish coat...(no red primer at all)...
All of the areas of the car so far have had the same coat order as the hood. Base fiberglass, white coat, red primer, grey sealer, red finish coats.
Thanks if anyone can clarify....
CF Senior Fox Bat
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 619
I thought about it but I want to do as much of this restore "hands on" as I can. I just seem to get a much deeper appreciation for the final product when I do it the old hard way. I know that seems stupid or foreign to a lot of people, but I grew up working around cars and I just enjoy spending the time in the shop.
The captain lees sure took less time. I did the top of the hood in about 20 min. The underside took about 2 hours to get the same amount of progress. Tomorrow I'll do a second application on the hood top and see if most of the grey sealer will come off. The hood is good practice, I'll hope for good weather so I can roll it outside and do the rest of the car with the stripper. I think I'll pull the body and roll it outside on the body dolly...that will be easier.
The captain lees sure took less time. I did the top of the hood in about 20 min. The underside took about 2 hours to get the same amount of progress. Tomorrow I'll do a second application on the hood top and see if most of the grey sealer will come off. The hood is good practice, I'll hope for good weather so I can roll it outside and do the rest of the car with the stripper. I think I'll pull the body and roll it outside on the body dolly...that will be easier.
Just for info, some companies will rent Soda blasters. I even found one that has 21 outside covered bays and everything you need ready to go. All you do is rent the bay by the hour. I am taking my 63 down there in the spring. Check your yellow pages.
