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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 11:15 AM
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Default HP question.

I am in the process of total rebuild of my 327/350 #s engine. My rebuilder says, around 375hp is tops, with stock heads(2.02), intake, and run on pump prem.
Any ideas, welcome.
Put the 3810 on the shelf, will use 675 Holley Street Aveng'r
Want the rest of motor to look bone stock
Any distrb'r suggestion? That would increase performance, but look stock?
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 12:12 PM
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Just how much power do you really need for a street car??
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 12:23 PM
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Default 327

The 350HP 327 is one of the best engines GM ever designed. It is gentle for everyday driving and has TONS of power when you need it. Hydraulic lifters make it easy to maintain. Leave it 100% stock. If you are seeking more power, put a GM crate motor in it. But like said above, 350HP is not enough???

Boyan
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by red67vert
Any distrb'r suggestion? That would increase performance, but look stock?

Super zoomy ultrablaster ignition systems will net you zero. Spend you money elsewhere.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 01:08 PM
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buy AFR heads and paint them orange.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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With modern cam science, ported/polished heads, low friction assembly techniques, free flowing exhaust, he should be able to do a little better than 375 with stock heads, But it would probably require higher compression than you want to deal with for a street engine. Given today's gas, a modern set of aluminum heads are needed to make up the difference.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by red67vert
I am in the process of total rebuild of my 327/350 #s engine. My rebuilder says, around 375hp is tops, with stock heads(2.02), intake, and run on pump prem.
Any ideas, welcome.
Put the 3810 on the shelf, will use 675 Holley Street Aveng'r
Want the rest of motor to look bone stock
Any distrb'r suggestion? That would increase performance, but look stock?
You won't make 375 hp without headwork and manifolds (intake and exhaust), so it won't look stock.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 01:34 PM
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350-375hp is certainly enough, just want the most with stock assembly, on pump gas. This guys has been building engines for 35+years, so I trust him completely. Just wanted to get your options/suggestions. Thanks.

PS. there is a kick a$$ crate, with World product heads, roller rockers, tunnel ram with 750cfmDP, in it now. Finally got the stars in alignment to get original engine redone., and back in. So if someone is looking for a crate (70 LT-1) counter exchange, LMK.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 02:21 PM
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Don't forget that your builder is speaking in terms of gross HP and not net HP that is used on today's cars. If you get 375 gross, you should be able to keep up with most of the foreign ricer cars.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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lightweight pistons, thin rings, low tension oil rings.
And try that DP carb or a better DP.
VS are for sissies
(no hate mail please j/k)
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by red67vert
350-375hp is certainly enough, just want the most with stock assembly, on pump gas. This guys has been building engines for 35+years, so I trust him completely. Just wanted to get your options/suggestions. Thanks.

PS. there is a kick a$$ crate, with World product heads, roller rockers, tunnel ram with 750cfmDP, in it now. Finally got the stars in alignment to get original engine redone., and back in. So if someone is looking for a crate (70 LT-1) counter exchange, LMK.
I've posted them before and I'll post them again for you. This equates to ~350 crank hp, and certainly doesn't look stock.

Engine was built by some of the best.

331 CI, pump-friendly 9.5:1 CR
K&N 14"x4" air filter, Corvette drop base and lid
Holley 600 dp, choke horn milled and blended, Primary - 69, Secondary – 74, Squirters - 21
1/2" Aluminum open spacer port matched to manifold, exterior polished
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, port matched, exterior polished with all extraneous castings and lettering removed
Homemade lifter valley splash shield to keep hot oil off manifold bottom
Manifold heat riser crossover blocked
Camel hump 1.94/1.50 heads hogged out to 2.02/1.60, pocket ported, port matched, pump-friendly hardened seats, 3-angle valve job
Cylinder bores clearanced to unshroud the valves
Comp Cams 1.52:1 roller-tip rockers
Crane Cam Vintage Muscle 327/350 hp cam, 222 degrees @ 0.05, 0.447" lift (with 1.50 rockers)
Doug Thorley headers, dechromed and ceramic-coated
2.5" mandral-bent exhaust (including tips), 2" cross-over just before rear axle
DynoMax stainless Ultra Flow mufflers
Millerspeed 1-1/2” Gilmer under drive belt drive system
Mallory Hyfire IV CD ignition box triggered off Accel points
Mallory high voltage chrome coil
Mallory spiral-wound coil wire
Mallory solid copper plug wires, ends soldered to wires
Champion plugs
37 degrees total ignition advance
Carter high volume fuel pump
Melling high volume oil pump
Open breathers
Polished aluminum high flow water pump
160-degree thermostat
Flex fan with polished aluminum spacer
Polished aluminum one-wire 100 amp alternator
Header Power Bracket
Keisler TKO600 5-Speed
Hurst shifter
3.70:1 positraction with Big Block yokes
225/60/15 Firestone Firehawk SZ50s on 7”-wide Western 30-spoke Turbine Wheels




Doesn't quite look stock.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
buy AFR heads and paint them orange.
...."it's all in the heads"!......
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 03:08 PM
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and "pump gas" means 87 octane. with 9-9.5:1 and a soggy low end.
With a reliable source of 91-93, CR could be raised to 10.5. And will have a WIDE power band. Not soggy
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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Oh boy...
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