C1 & C2 Corvettes General C1 Corvette & C2 Corvette Discussion, Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Project Builds, Restorations

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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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Default More progress

Finished fabbing the fan brackets and spent the rest of the day bolting more stuff into place. Getting closer....


Last edited by 65air_coupe; Dec 31, 2012 at 05:39 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 07:49 PM
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Wow!
You sure do nice work!!
Looks fantastic!!!
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 11:05 AM
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Default More w/pictures

Thanks Larry, more progress with pics...

Radiator bracket


Fan brackets


Fan shoud (Derale) - notice I notched the upper left corner


Left fan bracket installed


Right fan bracket installed


Fan installed


From the front


The fan is a Derale two speed model with shroud. I was intent on using a shroud to get maximum air flow through the A/C condensor.

Unfortunately the shroud was just the right width but a bit too tall. It didn't appear that just modding the existing shroud would buy me enough reduction in height so I took a more convoluted path. I lowered the anti-sway bar 3/8" with spacers, raised the radiator 1/4" with custom rubber lower mounts. And then I riveted a piece of aluminum angle inside the top of the shroud to block the exposed opening.

Next is get a couple of relays and wire it all up.
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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Beautiful.
Can you please stop by my place for about a week?
Free room and board...
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 10:53 PM
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I fired up the motor yesterday for the first time. Had to reset the dizzy one tooth though to get the timing close. Spent some time tuning and tweaking and was intending to back it out of the garage for a quick spin around the block but found all the brake fluid had leaked out

A quick look showed it's the left front and left rear calipers. I had put VBP stainless brakes in it years ago and remember some of the pistons were questionable then. I'll pull them out after Christmas but for now I'm just going to add fluid, bleed them and go for a ride.
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 65air_coupe
I fired up the motor yesterday for the first time. Had to reset the dizzy one tooth though to get the timing close. Spent some time tuning and tweaking and was intending to back it out of the garage for a quick spin around the block but found all the brake fluid had leaked out

A quick look showed it's the left front and left rear calipers. I had put VBP stainless brakes in it years ago and remember some of the pistons were questionable then. I'll pull them out after Christmas but for now I'm just going to add fluid, bleed them and go for a ride.
Nice 65. I'm here in Merritt Island and waiting for my 65 396 to be completed. Maybe we can hook up at a local show some time. It should be finished some time in January.
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Old Dec 25, 2012 | 10:26 AM
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Thanks Eddie, sounds like a plan. I've had a slight setback, it appears some of the used roller lifters I'm using aren't pumping up and a couple of cylinders are not producing. I'll replace those plugs first just to make sure, then check compression before going further.

Last edited by 65air_coupe; Dec 26, 2012 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 65air_coupe


Next is get a couple of relays and wire it all up.
Just curious. Did you do anything to beef up your electrical harness? I installed a SPAL electric fan and it draws a ton of current (21 amps) - enough to slow the engine when it kicks on. I put in a 100 amp externally-regulated alternator to supply the juice. I also piggy-backed an additional wire (8 ga I think) from the alternator to the horn relay on the radiator support, which is the major junction point and the voltage regulating location. The fan is powered through a fan relay from this same location, which is very convenient. This gives you the additional capacity you need and the ammeter in the dash will still read accurately. The fan is controlled by a Dakota Digital controller which uses the temp gage to control the fan and has adjustable on and off temps. I would have used the SPAL PWM controller, which varies the speed with temperature, but it is no longer available.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 06:16 PM
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Hey, at least you have your vette in your garage to work on. Mine is over in Largo waiting for my cousin to paint it. Just found out he's in Orlando taking a vacation. I'm freaking out. I can't wait to take the riding mower out and fill the spot with C-2 power. I told him I'd like to have it for Kissimmee. Patience, I know, patience.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by EddieG
Hey, at least you have your vette in your garage to work on. Mine is over in Largo waiting for my cousin to paint it. Just found out he's in Orlando taking a vacation. I'm freaking out. I can't wait to take the riding mower out and fill the spot with C-2 power. I told him I'd like to have it for Kissimmee. Patience, I know, patience.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ssgnco
I would have used the SPAL PWM controller, which varies the speed with temperature, but it is no longer available.
Just found a controller from flex-a-lite that does this same thing. Runs the fan from 60-100% (or off) based on temperatures that you can set.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 07:29 PM
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Hi Greg,

I have not yet done anything to 'beef' up the circuits. I tapped off the horn relay just as I did for upgrading the headlight circuit with relays and was going to check wire temps once I can put some time on it. I will say I don't detect any unusual load on the alternator when the fan kicks in though. I've tested it on both low speed (A/C engaged) and high speed (eng temp) with nothing out of the ordinary happening. My alternator is a beefed up original unit that puts out around 75 amps and I'm using a standard FLAPS solid state replacement model.

I think the current draw on this fan is around the same as yours too.
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Old Dec 26, 2012 | 10:45 PM
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Yep, just as I suspected, at least one lifter is collapsed and not pumping up. My one-half turn past zero lash actually had the valve not closing on one cylinder. I guess I'm going to have to pull the intake and service that lifter...or replace them all for piece of mind. Still pondering my options.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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Update - once adjusted correctly and allowed to warm up, the suspect lifter is fine. I did find some unusual numbers for cranking compression but have ignored them and moved on.

Still haven't replaced leaking brake pistons and also found the poly bushings on the rear leaf spring have disintegrated. Still managed to take it for a drive and glory be...shift into 5th gear!

Ordering new parts from VBP in the morning. Working on a broken ammeter in the meantime.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 65air_coupe
I did find some unusual numbers for cranking compression but have ignored them and moved on.
You're my kind of guy! This mindset has caused me as much mechanical success as failure, at least.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ChattanoogaJSB
You're my kind of guy! This mindset has caused me as much mechanical success as failure, at least.
Well, to be honest I spent more than two weeks chasing it. I had readings of 240 to 280psi on 3 different gauges that was very troubling. Without doing a complete teardown, I examined every possible reason and came up with nothing. It didn't make any sense but I couldn't simply ignore the gauges either.

It came down to a few simple things...it started easily with my original and possibly never rebuilt starter. And it idled fine. Neither of those would be likely if it had the kind of compression ratio necessary to create 280psi.

So I took a drive of about 5 miles, brought it back and ran another test after it cooled down. Now it was reading 220psi. Still high but not out of the question. So I'll continue to break it in while listening for any detonation. I did find that re-starting when hot does challenge the starter, but that's not out of the question with 406 cubic inches at nearly an 11:1 compresson ratio. I always considered I might need a new starter when I began this project anyway.

Last edited by 65air_coupe; Jan 17, 2013 at 10:58 AM.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 09:06 AM
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While I had the console out to install the new transmission and shifter, I decided I might as well pull the radio and have it sent out for repairs. And since I was pulling interior stuff apart, I thought I might as well pull the ammeter and do the voltmeter conversion while I'm at it since it wasn't working anyway.

And of course, that meant I could now swap out all the dash light bulbs with new LEDs. Now the steering column is dropped down, the dash is hanging out and loose wires dangling!

HELP! Someone needs to come tie me up before I take anything else apart!
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 09:23 AM
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Project creep! Is there a cure or do you just have to ride it out like the flu? Hang in there
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