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1963 Split Window

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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 04:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Storm VET
do you think all the changes were from the Hub and on, or do it have to replace the entire tube through the firewall?
Based on your photo, the entire column has been replaced.

A 340 horse motor would have the RE suffix. Fuel injected was RF.
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 04:30 PM
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I posted this in my previous post but here are the suffix codes for 1963 Corvettes

RC . 327 ...250 ...WCFB 1x4 BC & Manual Trans.
RD .. 327...300 ...AFB 1x4 BC & Manual Trans.
RE .. 327...340 ...AFB 1x4 BC, Hi-Lift Cam & Man Tr.

RF ... 327...360 ...FI, Hi-Lift Cam & Manual Trans.

SC .. 327 ...250 ...WCFB 1x4 BC & Powerglide
SD .. 327...300 ...AFB 1x4 BC & Powerglide

Note: WCFB and AFB four-barrel carburetors man-
ufactured by Carter; Fl means Rochester Fuel Injection.

Last edited by TheSaint; Dec 29, 2012 at 04:33 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RYanulis
WOW.........

Storm VET,
Please post a picture of your radiator support, from the engine compartment, on the drivers side.
Is that a good wow or a bad wow????
I just had the car delivered to nevada and it will be in my garage in a couple weeks.
I'll get the exact pics requested and post them.!!!!!
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Storm VET
Is that a good wow or a bad wow????
I just had the car delivered to nevada and it will be in my garage in a couple weeks.
I'll get the exact pics requested and post them.!!!!!
Thank you All for your generous and great information!
I'll post more pics soon
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 04:39 PM
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The good news is that your tachometer shows that the car was born as a 340hp or 360hp.

Your exhaust manifolds are NOT from a FI.

Please post a picture of your radiator support and the numbers under the heater hose.
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 04:51 PM
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The radiator support should look like this if it is a original fuel injection car
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Storm VET
Hello fellow corvette Nuts!

I need some help figuring a few things out.

1. The 63 SWC i just bought has the 327/340HP set up. I want to buy side pipes for it and dont know what diameter i need or will both work?

Thanks in advance!!!
Either will work, it depends on what size exhaust manifolds are on your engine. My guess is probably 2". Measure the diameter of the openings and you will know what you have. Eventually GM went to a 2" manifold exclusively, which is what I run on my 64 with CE HP block and side pipes. I have a spare set of the 2 1/2 manifolds, but don't think I would use them. Pilot Dan
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 05:10 PM
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Lots of modifications under the hood, (and paint, and...) but nothing that cant be fixed.

'63 -only master cylinder is missing.

FI style radiator support could be a clue, but Chevy sold them that way over the counter as replacements over the years so they would fit all cars. So, it "might" mean its a FI. A date stamp would help.

Being told its matching numbers rather than verifying is very risky business. Can you post a picture of the pad?

As someone mentioned, if you are going to keep it very modified looking I guess the side pipes wont be too big a deal, but if you are looking to return it to stock, it wont help the car at all.
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettebuyer5869
FI style radiator support could be a clue..............So, it "might" mean its a FI
The reality is that EVERYTHING that may identify this car as an original Fuelie can be bolted on, or removed.

The only way to tell for sure, would be the presence of an real, genuine and unmolested RF stamp pad. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 07:58 PM
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just drive it for a year before you start changing things back to normal. i looked into getting a fi unit. mine was missing when i got it. if you do not do the work yourself
it is going to run you up to 8 to 10k. you can get a ls3 for that. jim
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Old Dec 29, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Pilot Dan
Either will work, it depends on what size exhaust manifolds are on your engine. My guess is probably 2". Measure the diameter of the openings and you will know what you have. Eventually GM went to a 2" manifold exclusively, which is what I run on my 64 with CE HP block and side pipes. I have a spare set of the 2 1/2 manifolds, but don't think I would use them. Pilot Dan
Hi Dan, thanks for the info.
I bought the rear weatherstrip got my 58 from you!
It worked out perfect !
Thanks
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 12:53 AM
  #32  
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Default Engine numbers

The last couple numbers look like they're blocked by the head
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 12:55 AM
  #33  
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Looks like its the RE suffix for 340 horse
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 01:00 AM
  #34  
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The first set of numbers F0319RE

The second set of numbers says 31104 and the rest is covered
It def has the RE and the 1104 from the VIN with the rest being covered.
I think it's a no brainer that its not an orig fuelie!
However, the VIN and matching motor I leave to you experts!

Also, if you guys can tell me what else would need to have matching numbers, ie; tranny etc....
That would be great.
Any and all other advice for bringing the engine compartment to orig would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance everyone!
Gary
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 01:39 AM
  #35  
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I hate to give you the bad news, but that is not an orignal stamp pad on the engine. The assembly stamping starting with F and the VIN derivative have been reversed, the font is off and location is off. I cant tell on the broach marks from the photo.

Boyan
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 02:19 PM
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That's clearly a Stevie Wonder restamp. Original small-block pad stamps were done with the heads in place, and both stamps are buried under the head, with no clearance for the stamp gang-holders.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 02:28 PM
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John. When the pad was stamped, i suppose the suffix and numbers closest to the suffix was written in and that you stamped the numbers F0319RE together and the vin numbers of the car in another stamp?

It could not have been one stamp for each of the letters and numbers?
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 02:52 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
That's clearly a Stevie Wonder restamp. Original small-block pad stamps were done with the heads in place, and both stamps are buried under the head, with no clearance for the stamp gang-holders.
That's hilarious !
Poor Stevie!!! Lol
Thanks for the input in the stamping .
Any other info or advice is appreciated !
I'm still laughing, I didn't know Stevie wonder restored vettes.
Thanks
Gary
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSaint
John. When the pad was stamped, i suppose the suffix and numbers closest to the suffix was written in and that you stamped the numbers F0319RE together and the vin numbers of the car in another stamp?

It could not have been one stamp for each of the letters and numbers?
The engine plant stamp was done with a single gang-holder that held all seven character dies; the first shift line setup man assembled a separate gang-holder for each suffix to be produced for that day, that was used for both shifts that day.

The assembly plant also used a gang-holder to contain the VIN derivative stamp dies, and at least one of those dies was changed for every unit (two every ten units, etc.).

First photo below shows a couple of actual Flint V-8 gang stamps, and the second photo shows the St. Louis VIN derivative gang stamp with the quick-release pin for changing dies for each unit and the bins for the dies.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 03:13 PM
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Stevie Wonder

I have looked at this photo three times.
Should the VIN number not be on the left, assemble numbers on the right?
Either I don't know what I am looking at, or this is the WORST restamp I have ever seen.

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