dharris45

I've searched here and on the NCRS forum and read what there is on polarizing. Still a little confused.

I'm getting ready to start my 1960 for the first time since nearing completion of restoration.

Does the ignition key need to be in the off or on position when polarizing?

The instructions I got from John Pirkle with my VR and my Generator have the same instruction, and that is to polarize at the VR terminals.

I read one thread here that also mentioned polarizing the generator.

Does polarizing at the VR take care of the polarity for the whole system?

Thanks,

Don

Geralds57

The key does not have to be on. Use a jumper wire between bat and gen on the voltage regulator just for a split second and that's it.

dharris45

Thanks, I sure hope my engine startup goes flawlessly this Sunday!!!

Frankie the Fink

Exactly right - and you are polarizing the generator NOT the V/R even though that is where you do the procedure.
You can put a mult-meter across your battery terminals at some point on your fresh start up and make sure that the voltage reads from 13.8V-14.2V and then you can be certain that the charging system is up to snuff.

plaidside

The only component you 'polarize' is the generator. They use permanent magnets which can loose their magnetism if not used for a long time. Generators are self exciting and need no external current to start the charge cycle.
When you polarize you are re-magnetizing the magnets and setting the polarity correctly.
To polarize the generator take a jumper lead from the battery positive terminal to the A terminal on the generator for a split second.
Joe

stellar

No permanent magnets in there. Electro magnets is why they need polarized.

dplotkin

Yup. but there is residual magnitism in the pole peices that can disipate if out of service for a prolonged period or if the generator is remanufactured. This is why repolarization is sometimes necessary. In most cases it is an unneeded procedure, but the risk is reverse polarization, and that comes with smoke for effect.

You are good to go with the first couple of suggestions above.

Dan

rustylugnuts

I can't agree enough!

rustylugnuts

63splitter

This may be a stupid question, but if I am only replacing the VR and the generator has not been touched, do I still need to jump the Bat and Gen terminals on the new VR? Shouldn't my generator stay polarized?

Thanks,

Rick - 1960 Vette

Frankie the Fink

In 99% of the cases, you don't need to do it. Polarizing just restores the residual magnetism in the generator. It takes a lot to lose that.

But then. It's a one minute procedure so why not?

dplotkin

No stupid questions, only stupid answers. In this case, no. You do not need to polarize a generator if you have removed the regulator, the generator has no idea the regulator left or that another one is in its place.

Dan

Frankie the Fink

True. But unfortunately, most V/R manufacturers recommend the procedure and thus, make it confusing for novices...

63splitter

Thanks for quick feedback, as always. I am leaving for a 4-day Vintage Chevrolet Car Club of America cruise in Buffalo New York and suddenly the battery won't stay charged. I followed all the tests on the Corvette Forum posts and it appears to be the VR. I bought one 3 years ago for $25. Now all of a sudden they are $80. But I had to have one today so I paid it. I also went out on eBay looking for a solid state VR but no one had one that had been done by Wilton for sale so I bought an NOS one instead.

Supposed to be rain, maybe snow, and very cold weather in Bullafo but the wife and I are driving the '60 up there nonetheless. It's a 2 hour drive up there. We're going to the Erie Canal and Locks Museum, a Frank Lloyd Wright house, a wooden carousel horse museum, and Niagra Falls. The trunk is packed full of sweatshirts and coats, as well as tools and cleaners. Wish me luck!!!!

Frankie the Fink

Wilton's owner died several years ago and his C1, generator solid-state V/R conversions are rare as hen's teeth. I sold my spare last summer on the forum to another member.

A few, fortunate people have them and, unlike me, they aren't letting them go... There probably aren't more than 30 or so that were ever made...prob less...

You did the right thing buying an NOS unit......the repros are crap and most are non-adjustable...so they are what they are...