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I accidentally burned up one of the wires going to the starter solenoid when I was trying to jump start the car. In true bonehead fashion i reversed the leads and caused all sorts of unintended consequences.
In any event here is what it looks like now:
I'd like to repair this without replacing the whole harness, but am having trouble understanding what wires I need to order to do it. Can someone help me out by pointing me in the right direction? Is this the fusable link wire that has melted or something else?
That's the fuse link that supplies 12v to the horn relay of your car. It supply's the 12v to the rest of the car from the horn relay to the fuse block bulkhead connector.
You need to get a new fusible link and splice it in to the starter wiring harness. Your fusible link is toasted. Be careful wiring the new one in and go from there.
Note the big lug actually supports 2 fusible links.
1 that goes to the battery gauge (black smaller wire) your dash
The second is the one that feeds you horn relay (large red wire).
It looks like you fried both of them, so you will have to replace both of them.
The fuse link for the red wire is 16 gauge link.
The fuse link for the battery gauge is 22 gauge.
You may have fried your battery gauge as well. Take it one step at a time. Good Luck.
Do you know where I can buy the fusable link wires that are orange like those on the car currently?
Is there a separate part that is the black cylinder around the fusable wire (you can see it clearly as a melted ball of plastic on my pictures) that I also need to purchase?
Do you know where I can buy the fusible link wires that are orange like those on the car currently?
Is there a separate part that is the black cylinder around the fusible wire (you can see it clearly as a melted ball of plastic on my pictures) that I also need to purchase?
When I replaced both of mine I simply purchased the correct gauge fusible link wire at my local parts house. That does not have the black rubber cylinders like the originals had.. In the harness you wont see then anyway. The gauge of the wire s whats most important. The colors don't match as well.
After you replace them you will have to check continuity thru all the other fuse links at the horn relay and voltage regulator etc.
I suggest that you purchase the detailed colored wiring schematic for the 67 Corvette. This will show you all the connections within the car and the fuse links. (Dr. Rebuild)
In reviewing your 1st photo the fusible link on the left is for the battery (one leg of 2) gauge and could be in tact - Just check with a continuity tester between the large metal lug and past the tubular rubber cylinder at the smaller gauge black wire. If its good that link can remain as is.
Looks like your red 12vdc wire fuse link is toasted. That's the one that will need to be replaced.
Very interested in this. Please explain where these fusible links are actually located . Not sure I have seen this yet .
A 66 doesn't have links unless they were added or a 67 harness was installed. Add one at the starter, and hang a 1 or 2 amp fuse on a battery meter terminal.
A 66 doesn't have links unless they were added or a 67 harness was installed. Add one at the starter, and hang a 1 or 2 amp fuse on a battery meter terminal.
The battery gauge is actually "supposed" to be a "ammeter" but in reality it is a galvanometer that measures the differential voltage (12vdc) from 2 points in your Vette.
The battery gauge back has 2 spade connectors.
One "leg" of that connection to the back of the gauge is from the starter (The fuse link to the small black wire in the OP photo above)
The other "leg" is from the Horn relay in the front drivers side near radiator to the other terminal on the gauge. The fuse link size for these connections is 22 gauge (as the wire itself is 18 gauge).
Both of these circuits run via thru bulkhead connector on the firewall into the fuse block in the cabin.
NOTE: Fuse links are supposed to be 4 wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire that they are protecting.
The battery gauge does not draw any current, only reads 12vdc differential voltage across 2 inputs.
The differential voltage that it measures in in millivolts, very very small amount.
Get a good colored wiring schematic before you dive into the wiring for your 67!
Is there a separate part that is the black cylinder around the fusable wire (you can see it clearly as a melted ball of plastic on my pictures) that I also need to purchase?
The black cylinder is simply a molded-on cover for the splice that joins the regular wire to the fusible link wire; it has no electrical function. For a harness repair, just use a length of heat-shrink tubing over the splice.
If you clip a fuse on the battery meter terminal, the fuse will protect the meter just like the fusible link on the black wire of a 67 horn relay. Otherwise if either meter wire gets grounded, the meter is toast, because both lines to the meter are ALWAYS 12 volt hot.