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66 Headlight Switch Question

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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 08:51 PM
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Default 66 Headlight Switch Question

What would keep the plunger (on a new repro ****) from engaging on the spring loaded retainer clip on the inside of the switch.
The old one won't re-engage either. The little spring loaded plunger moves freely in and out. They are the same length.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by IGO200
What would keep the plunger (on a new repro ****) from engaging on the spring loaded retainer clip on the inside of the switch.
The old one won't re-engage either. The little spring loaded plunger moves freely in and out. They are the same length.
Are you pushing it 'plunger' in before you put the **** in..sometime you have to just play with it....
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 10:39 PM
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I fiddled quite a bit. I tried pushing the retainer up before inserting the shaft. I tried pushing real hard before releasing the spring, etc... I'll Keep at it. I thought there might be some trick.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 10:44 PM
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Have you tried just pushing in the **** without depressing the plunger?
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 10:47 PM
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I took the switch back out of the dash, put a little lube on the **** shaft and put it in and took it out about 10 times and then reinstalled the switch and it worked! What a PITA
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 11:51 PM
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I've encountered this, with some of the switches on the market.

I can't explain exactly why, but on some of the switches, the shaft just won't go in far enough, when the switch is installed in the dash. They work fine on the bench, but when you put them in the cluster, it won't go in.

I've had switches side by side, and can't find a difference in them. I'll install one in a dash cluster, and the headlight ****/shaft goes right in and catches, and yet when I try the other switch, the same **** won't catch, no matter what I do.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 12:39 AM
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Thanks guys, I guess I'll pull the switch and have a look.
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 12:19 AM
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Got It! Here's what worked for me. I took the switch out messed with it until I got it. After several test insertions (you remember those right?)... I found that if I cocked the rod in the switch I could drag the inside sleeve out towards the opening (the "on" position). With it in that position I could feel when the switch rod just touched the spring loaded retainer. Once I knew where it was I could feel the rod touch it and slide past the retainer with the spring pushed in. I could then release the spring and drag the rod back out. When I did that I could feel the retainer click into place. Once I got a feel for it, I could do it repeatedly. So I set the switch with the movable part almost all the way "pulled out" (headlights on) put it in the cluster and got it first try. The main trick is to have the switch in the fully on (pulled out) position when you try and hook it.
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