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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 01:05 PM
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Default Frame(s)?

Hello, I have the opportunity to purchase a '64 in rough shape. The main issue is the frame is badly rusted and pretty much junk. The good thing is that it comes with a very usable '63 frame complete with front and rear suspension. My question is, what are the differences between the two frames and what can I expect to encounter when I do the swap if I decide to go forward with the project? Thanks for any heads up...
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JimDD
Hello, I have the opportunity to purchase a '64 in rough shape. The main issue is the frame is badly rusted and pretty much junk. The good thing is that it comes with a very usable '63 frame complete with front and rear suspension. My question is, what are the differences between the two frames and what can I expect to encounter when I do the swap if I decide to go forward with the project? Thanks for any heads up...
Jim,

I can only get you started on a few facts from text; but, you will need further input from our forum experts on how it will effect the "swap" process.

1. The rear sections are IDENTICAL.

2. 63 frames have no drain holes, apparently 64's do.

3. Body mount brackets are higher in a 63 frame whereas 64 body mount brackets were decreased in height for rubber donuts and larger mounting holes.

4. The parking brake brackets were moved to the crossmember on 64 frames.

As I noted you will need some solid help on changes #3 & #4 to guide you.

Good luck,
Ralph
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 01:53 PM
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If you wish to keep it stock, there are plenty of frames available from the guys who sell off their original frames for the aftermarket ones - especially if you are going the NCRS route where numbers and authenticity matters.

Of course, you too could sell off the old frames and purchase an aftermarket chassis - depends on what you want to do.

I understand that you basically want to swap out the one chassis for the other, but wanted to chime in on other options in case the swap becomes more than what you want to do with the current option you have at the moment


Dan
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 1967STER
Jim,

I can only get you started on a few facts from text; but, you will need further input from our forum experts on how it will effect the "swap" process.

1. The rear sections are IDENTICAL.

2. 63 frames have no drain holes, apparently 64's do.

3. Body mount brackets are higher in a 63 frame whereas 64 body mount brackets were decreased in height for rubber donuts and larger mounting holes.

4. The parking brake brackets were moved to the crossmember on 64 frames.

As I noted you will need some solid help on changes #3 & #4 to guide you.

Good luck,
Ralph
Thanks Ralph.... All that you mentioned seem perfectly doable with a minimum amount of expense and labor.... So far. if those are the major differences, should be a piece of cake...
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dcaggiani
If you wish to keep it stock, there are plenty of frames available from the guys who sell off their original frames for the aftermarket ones - especially if you are going the NCRS route where numbers and authenticity matters.

Of course, you too could sell off the old frames and purchase an aftermarket chassis - depends on what you want to do.

I understand that you basically want to swap out the one chassis for the other, but wanted to chime in on other options in case the swap becomes more than what you want to do with the current option you have at the moment


Dan
Thanks, I'm not worried about any of that (NCRS), I just want to build a nice little driver and work with what I have.. Don't really wanna break the bank on this one... Actually, this is an all matching numbers car so the only thing that wont match will be the frame..

Last edited by JimDD; Mar 21, 2013 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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Look here for height variation in body mounts. Biggest difference is firewall body mount where the 63 one is .32" higher than 64. Could probably make that up shaving down the 64 rubber cushion.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...hp/photo/55024
As noted, parking brake is a little different.
Ken
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken Sungela
Look here for height variation in body mounts. Biggest difference is firewall body mount where the 63 one is .32" higher than 64. Could probably make that up shaving down the 64 rubber cushion.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...hp/photo/55024
As noted, parking brake is a little different.
Ken
Those tolerances are pretty close, I'm sure I could make things fit without too much trouble... 1/3rd of an inch isnt really that much.... Briefly, how are the parking brakes different and could it be retro'd to fit? Thanks for the assist..
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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see page 68 here.
http://www.licorvette.com/pdfcatalogfiles/catalog.pdf
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken Sungela
I see.... They both fundamentally use levers to operate, just at different angles. I'll have to come up with a way to affix the existing frame lever to the cable already on the body. Should be a perfectly doable thing... Thanks for the link... This project is still in the "maybe" stages so I'll have to look into it with a little more interest before I pull the trigger..
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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I'm sure someone out there would trade you a good 64 frame for the 63 frame. The 63 frames command quite a premium to a restorer. You might think that 1/3 of an inch difference in body mounts isnt much, but you will quickly find out that it will effect a lot of other things as well. You will find that a lot of things just won't line up correctly. To many things are 63 only in relation to the body and the frame line up points, bumper brackets through the frame to line up with the body holes, just for a start. JMHO but I've been there and tried that.
Chris
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MrTrim
I'm sure someone out there would trade you a good 64 frame for the 63 frame. The 63 frames command quite a premium to a restorer. You might think that 1/3 of an inch difference in body mounts isnt much, but you will quickly find out that it will effect a lot of other things as well. You will find that a lot of things just won't line up correctly. To many things are 63 only in relation to the body and the frame line up points, bumper brackets through the frame to line up with the body holes, just for a start. JMHO but I've been there and tried that.
Chris
No need to hide under a chair my friend.. lol... That's an interesting option.. Is there as way to tell if the '63 frame is for a coupe or a roadster? The car is a convertible...
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 12:46 AM
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I believe that a roadster frame will have 2 body mounts in the front cowl area on each side, to adjust the cowl, for door alignment at the back of the doors to the quarters. A coupe frame has only 1 mount at the cowl area. If my memory has failed me, I'm sure someone else will chime in to correct me.
Chris
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JimDD
I see.... They both fundamentally use levers to operate, just at different angles. I'll have to come up with a way to affix the existing frame lever to the cable already on the body. Should be a perfectly doable thing... Thanks for the link... This project is still in the "maybe" stages so I'll have to look into it with a little more interest before I pull the trigger..
Parking brakes are WAY different. No parts interchange. I changed my 63 parking brake over to the 65+. All parts from A to Z are different starting with the parking brake lever and all the parts to the rear brake discs for 65 vs drums for 63/64.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 01:54 AM
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As the owner of a completely rusted 66 I will share that you should be concerned about possible birdcage rust. Much harder fix than frame rust. There is plenty to read about the birdcage including how to look for rust on this forum. Good Luck and I hope your new toy brings you lots of smiles.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 05:10 AM
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Jim
1964 Frame Craigs List Ohio
1964 Corvette Frame - $1000 (Springfield Twp.)
1964 Corvette frame. Needs blasted and some welding done. Call 234-678-8265 for details. Please no e-mails or texts.
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