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what timing

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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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Default what timing

im looking for the timing for my '66 327/300 . my Chiltons manual list these distributors and timing for them:
1111152 8btdc
1111116 2atdc
1111153 6btdc
1111117 4atdc

my distributor is a rare on and not listed , it's
1111134
I was told it was listed in an old Delco-Remy book as a distributor for this engine but I can't find any info on it .
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 09:26 PM
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The manuals assume that your distributor still has the same specs as original. Replacement, rebuilds, wear, or modifications can make original figures meaningless. I'd start by setting total to about 36º. If that results in too much or too little initial, the distributor will need to be recurved. Be sure to rev it until the advance is all in before setting total as many factory (and rebuilds) don't reach max advance until 4-5K.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 09:02 AM
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1111134 was replaced in service, 4-'67 with 1111154.

1111154 was replaced in service, 7-'67 with 1111195.

The above would have been service replacements for you OEM distributor which I believe is a 1111153.

If you have/had the '66 engine with A.I.R., it uses the 111117 but the above distributors are not replacements for that engine.

I would follow VetteRodders advice and see what you come up with.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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So if it was an original 1111153 the 6 btdc should be close for the 1111134 replacement dist .
I'll try that , then check the total advance .
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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Assuming the 11153 distributor is unmolested it has the following ignition curve

0* @ 900 RPM
15*@ 1600 RPM
26*@ 4100 RPM

At 6* BTD initial your total advance @4100 would be 32*. You might want to bump up the initial timing to 10* and bring the total advance in earlier to say 3400 RPM for better engine response.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Vetterodder
The manuals assume that your distributor still has the same specs as original. Replacement, rebuilds, wear, or modifications can make original figures meaningless. I'd start by setting total to about 36º. If that results in too much or too little initial, the distributor will need to be recurved. Be sure to rev it until the advance is all in before setting total as many factory (and rebuilds) don't reach max advance until 4-5K.


http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...stallation.pdf
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Thanks for all the responses and the link to Lars timing info Dicecal . I've never tried to get total advance set so I guess I'll do some measuring and give it a try .
I think I might be about a tooth off too.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 02:45 PM
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Default timing again

So after reading the articles/posts about my distributor and timing I put the original black springs and weights (changed when the rebuilt.
Borrowed a adjustable timing light , set the timing at 10 btc, and at 2500 rpm the timing light zeros out at 24 degrees . Does this give me a total timing of 34 degrees ? This is all with the vacuum hose removed and plugged .
I've never tried to get the total before and if i did it right I'll try to determine the curve .
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
So after reading the articles/posts about my distributor and timing I put the original black springs and weights (changed when the rebuilt.
Borrowed a adjustable timing light , set the timing at 10 btc, and at 2500 rpm the timing light zeros out at 24 degrees . Does this give me a total timing of 34 degrees ? This is all with the vacuum hose removed and plugged .
I've never tried to get the total before and if i did it right I'll try to determine the curve .
Did you read Lars write up? because you're still at 24*

Remove the springs or use a rubberband to hold the springs in place while you set the timing to 36* @ 2800rpm.

Re-install the springs / remove rubberband but leave the vacuum disconnected, fire it up, do a few quick rev’s past 3,000 rpm and verify that the full timing 36*comes in. If not, you need a softer set of springs so you get full 36* advance before 3000 rpm.

Connect vacuum and do a roadtest and listen for detonation and back off a bit if necessary.

Btw...Thanks to Lars for how to set a proper timing for performance.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
I think I might be about a tooth off too.
If you can still rotate the distributor housing to the desired spot without it hitting something, there's no such thing- this is a myth invented by those that don't understand basic engine mechanics.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 02:27 PM
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If it's got a vacuum canister, it's very limited on how far you can rotate.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
If you can still rotate the distributor housing to the desired spot without it hitting something, there's no such thing- this is a myth invented by those that don't understand basic engine mechanics.
I believe if you rotate it far enough away from design position on a '55-'56 SBC, you'll wind up with no oil to one side of the rocker arms. Can't remember whether it's right or left side.

Further, if the cap is rewired to compensate for the "tooth off" condition, that tends to confuse others that may be working on that engine in the future.

The "half tooth off" deal is what is rough on midyear SBC Corvette owners.
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Godholio
If it's got a vacuum canister, it's very limited on how far you can rotate.
Correct. That's why it's important on a Corvette to have the distributor correctly installed and oriented so you have the required range of motion to set the base timing correctly without hitting the #8 intake runner or the RH side plug wire support.
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