A/C hood bubbles
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: tempe az
A/C hood bubbles
Hi All,
I was wondering how folks (or their paint guy) have gone about neutralizing (with success) the freon oil that bubbles the paint on the hood from beneath. Any insight would be most appreciated.
Kurt
I was wondering how folks (or their paint guy) have gone about neutralizing (with success) the freon oil that bubbles the paint on the hood from beneath. Any insight would be most appreciated.
Kurt
Last edited by kurtibm; Apr 4, 2013 at 11:54 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,201
Likes: 4,187
From: Kannapolis NC
I've read several post on the forum saying that the only fix (other than replacing hood) is to cut out the section and replace it. To prevent it in the future, you can buy a shield that bolts over the compressor to contain it. The one I saw comes with slots, so you can remove it before a show if you like.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,317
Likes: 292
From: Ocala FL
Time and effort are required. I haven't done this, but I have done DOT 5 brake fluid and that is possibly worse.
You need to clean it well, with something that absorbs oils as much as possible. A paint supply person who was also a painter recommended Comet.
One time won't do it. Neither will 5 or 10. You need to do it many times, getting the hood hot to help leach out the oil.
Heat is your friend. With a hood, I'd take it off, and lay it on edge so the sun beats on it for days. Sand the edge so it is bare glass so that if it leaches that far, it will have an escape. This is what I did with a fender. DOT 5 worked its way down the fender to the lip, and eventually most left through the fender lip edge that was sanded to bare glass.
It was a very slow and painful process. It isn't a weekend project.
Even then, you may never get it all out.
You need to clean it well, with something that absorbs oils as much as possible. A paint supply person who was also a painter recommended Comet.
One time won't do it. Neither will 5 or 10. You need to do it many times, getting the hood hot to help leach out the oil.
Heat is your friend. With a hood, I'd take it off, and lay it on edge so the sun beats on it for days. Sand the edge so it is bare glass so that if it leaches that far, it will have an escape. This is what I did with a fender. DOT 5 worked its way down the fender to the lip, and eventually most left through the fender lip edge that was sanded to bare glass.
It was a very slow and painful process. It isn't a weekend project.
Even then, you may never get it all out.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,462
Likes: 1,293
From: minneola fl
Here is what I have done with good sucess. First you MUST mark EXACTLY where the blisters are occuring. I use a 1/4" round tip burr, and grind through the paint, at the blisters, and mark the fiberglass by making a divot. Now strip the paint.......sand or chemicals are fine. I then drill through the fiberglass with a small bit (1/8" or something like that), to mark the bottom side. Now strip the paint off of the bottom. If you're over a doubler/support, you'll have to cut the top out of the doubler. Now take a roloc disc, heavy grit, and grind a dish over the top of each hole, and on the bottom at each hole, so that you are paper thin AT the hole. Using acetone, keep wetting the sanded area, and dry it with FRESH paper towels several times (maybe a dozen or so). Do this on the top and bottom. I use a high grade Isophalic resin, and fiberglass matting to layer it back up. Top and bottom. Isophalic is a moldmakers resin, and has a very low shrink as compared to boat resin. You could also use an epoxy resin, like west systems. Grind it all smooth. Replace any doubler sections that you cut out. Prime with EPOXY (I like PPG D822), and paint.
Mike Coletta
Mike Coletta
