shake down cruise
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
From: Pewaukee WI
shake down cruise
I could not take it any more. It's late April, the weather sucks (snow showers today!) and I took the 65 327-300 roadster out for the first time since I pulled the engine 1 yr ago for rebuild. With the engine out I cleaned up the engine compartment and redid the whole front suspension. First stop was a wheel alignment $350!!??? I feel I was raped but it's done. Took him 2.8 hrs. Next stop was a 40 mile run.
The following things happened:
Engine ran great
Steered great (for an old car)
braked great
On the negative side:
The glove box kept popping open
The new quartz clock died
The glove box courtesy light quit. - same circuit as clock?
And my tach needle started bouncing around towards the end of the ride.
Also the cable seemed to squeal when shifting. I know that I am guilty of a fairly tight cable bend at the distributor.
Oh yeah-for awhile the ammeter was reading about 15 amps plus, the oil pressure was very high (I think the engine builder put in a high volume pumpand 20 w50 and the water temp was low (160F thermostat)
Any words of wisdom on any of the above?
Myron
The following things happened:
Engine ran great
Steered great (for an old car)
braked great
On the negative side:
The glove box kept popping open
The new quartz clock died
The glove box courtesy light quit. - same circuit as clock?
And my tach needle started bouncing around towards the end of the ride.
Also the cable seemed to squeal when shifting. I know that I am guilty of a fairly tight cable bend at the distributor.
Oh yeah-for awhile the ammeter was reading about 15 amps plus, the oil pressure was very high (I think the engine builder put in a high volume pumpand 20 w50 and the water temp was low (160F thermostat)
Any words of wisdom on any of the above?
Myron
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,359
Likes: 2,729
From: Close to DC
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Congrats on getting on the road, you will continue to feel better.
Adjust the striker on the glove box.
Clock and light not sure about.
Tack cable casing may need to be cleaned out and relubed.
The tach cable should not be at a sharp angle. I think your distributor is off a tooth.
What was the hi pressure reading. A hi pressure pump and tight bearing clearances couples with 20w/50 will give you hi pressure.
The water temp is good.
Drive it some more and watch the numbers carefully. Go back and check all the hose clamps, valve cover bolts (don't tighten them too much is you have stamped steel covers) and other bolts.
Dennis
Adjust the striker on the glove box.
Clock and light not sure about.
Tack cable casing may need to be cleaned out and relubed.
The tach cable should not be at a sharp angle. I think your distributor is off a tooth.
What was the hi pressure reading. A hi pressure pump and tight bearing clearances couples with 20w/50 will give you hi pressure.
The water temp is good.
Drive it some more and watch the numbers carefully. Go back and check all the hose clamps, valve cover bolts (don't tighten them too much is you have stamped steel covers) and other bolts.
Dennis
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 223
From: Temecula CA
High Oil Pressure
Myron:
My '65 300hp motor had 70# of oil pressure after the rebuild.
Always bugged me that the needle was off the scale.
Did a bunch of research and found this is common with Melling pumps because even standard M55's are often equipped with the pink high pressure relief spring. Set to open at 70#.
I found that there is a yellow 58# spring, as well as a green 49# spring. This is Melling.
Swapped mine out for the yellow and life is good. No more pegged oil pressure needle.
The 70# spring is a good choice for solid lifter motors with the 80# gauge, in my opinion.
My '65 300hp motor had 70# of oil pressure after the rebuild.
Always bugged me that the needle was off the scale.
Did a bunch of research and found this is common with Melling pumps because even standard M55's are often equipped with the pink high pressure relief spring. Set to open at 70#.
I found that there is a yellow 58# spring, as well as a green 49# spring. This is Melling.
Swapped mine out for the yellow and life is good. No more pegged oil pressure needle.
The 70# spring is a good choice for solid lifter motors with the 80# gauge, in my opinion.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 101
From: Riverhead New York
I prefer a 180 or 190 Degree Thermostat with a newer engine. The higher settings will not cause overheating as long as cooling system is operating correctly. My reasoning is, as time goes by you will be able to go back to a lower Temp Therm to tighten the engine back, by lowering operating Temp.. Al W.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
I think they make 90 degree adapters for those distributor tach cables but I'm not a C2 guy so others may know more.
Then maybe you can just leave the distributor set up correctly instead of trying to 'trick f*k' the thing ?
Then maybe you can just leave the distributor set up correctly instead of trying to 'trick f*k' the thing ?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
