dash lights
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 199
Likes: 1
dash lights
Ok, I know this has probably been discussed many times before, and I must ask forgiveness for my ignorance. Possibly a point in the right direction......
My '67 dash lights don't work; total darkness. No response to turning the hl switch - courtesy lights work, glovebox light works, gauges work, clock works. Doesn't matter if just parking lights are on or the headlights as well.
The fuse looks fine; I replaced it anyway and no change. Unfortunately that's as far as my knowledge/comfort level with electronics goes. I have a basic voltmeter and maybe need to take 'car electronics 101' to get comfortable but at this point it's confusing. I'm willing, and will soon have more time, to look into this more but, right now, where would you recommend I start? Diagrams, references much appreciated!
Thanks
Joe
My '67 dash lights don't work; total darkness. No response to turning the hl switch - courtesy lights work, glovebox light works, gauges work, clock works. Doesn't matter if just parking lights are on or the headlights as well.
The fuse looks fine; I replaced it anyway and no change. Unfortunately that's as far as my knowledge/comfort level with electronics goes. I have a basic voltmeter and maybe need to take 'car electronics 101' to get comfortable but at this point it's confusing. I'm willing, and will soon have more time, to look into this more but, right now, where would you recommend I start? Diagrams, references much appreciated!
Thanks
Joe
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,105
Likes: 96
From: Sunrise FL
If the fuse checks ok it's probably the dimmer (rheostat) that's part of the headlight switch. A short would blow the fuse, so you are looking at an "open" circuit. Bunch of bulbs controlled bt that dimmer, wiring would not be likely as cause for the problem. Good news that the switch is a generic GM part and costs like $20.
Getting to the switch (and removing the ****) takes a bit of work..search the archives
You are ROTATING the headlite ****, right??
Getting to the switch (and removing the ****) takes a bit of work..search the archives
You are ROTATING the headlite ****, right??
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 138
From: Clinton Township MI
Cruise-In III Veteran
jchez7,
Think the word KISS. If your fuses are OK, pull out the headlight switch and try spraying some electrical cleaner on that shaft and into where it goes into the dash. Now work that headlight switch, rotating it counterclockwise, then clockwise, back and forth. This will clean up a "sluggish" rehostat and just maybe bring back its functionality. 'Course, you just may simply have that rehostat turned down so no dash lights are on.
Good luck!
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
Think the word KISS. If your fuses are OK, pull out the headlight switch and try spraying some electrical cleaner on that shaft and into where it goes into the dash. Now work that headlight switch, rotating it counterclockwise, then clockwise, back and forth. This will clean up a "sluggish" rehostat and just maybe bring back its functionality. 'Course, you just may simply have that rehostat turned down so no dash lights are on.
Good luck!
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 11,482
Likes: 27
From: Plum Boro, Pa. USA Pennsylvania
jchez7,
Think the word KISS. If your fuses are OK, pull out the headlight switch and try spraying some electrical cleaner on that shaft and into where it goes into the dash. Now work that headlight switch, rotating it counterclockwise, then clockwise, back and forth. This will clean up a "sluggish" rehostat and just maybe bring back its functionality. 'Course, you just may simply have that rehostat turned down so no dash lights are on.
Good luck!
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
Think the word KISS. If your fuses are OK, pull out the headlight switch and try spraying some electrical cleaner on that shaft and into where it goes into the dash. Now work that headlight switch, rotating it counterclockwise, then clockwise, back and forth. This will clean up a "sluggish" rehostat and just maybe bring back its functionality. 'Course, you just may simply have that rehostat turned down so no dash lights are on.
Good luck!
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
Mine didn't work; I pulled the switch **** back, sprayed WD40 or LPS-1 on it, pushed it back in, twisted it back & forth. Kept doing it..."X" # of days (have NO clue). Returning from a Cruise one night, I was travelling up a 2-lane road, complete darkness except for headlights. All of a sudden, the dash lights FLASHED on - and stayed on - and I almost ran off the road
Give it a try; be PATIENT!
Cruz
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 199
Likes: 1
Thanks for the responses. I know I admitted ignorance, but I did turn the dimmer **** 
I will try the wd40 and then go to a switch if necessary. I will search for instructions in the archives (I'm assuming just doing a search on this forum)
Thanks for the help guys!
I will try the wd40 and then go to a switch if necessary. I will search for instructions in the archives (I'm assuming just doing a search on this forum)
Thanks for the help guys!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,167
Likes: 4,172
From: Kannapolis NC
Verify that your tail lights are working. If the tail light fuse blows, the voltage will not get to the dash lamp fuse. If you measure voltage on both sides of the inst lamps fuse, the light switch rheostat is good and the problem is in the dash wire or ground.
The path is: 12v to the switch on a brown wire (after coming through the tail lamp fuse), then through the rheostat out to the instr lamp fuse on a green wire, then out to the dash lamps on a gray wire, through the bulbs to ground. So if you have a voltage on the instr lamp fuse to ground, the rheostat is good. The voltage measured will vary depending on the position of the rheostat if it's working. If you have voltage on the switch at the brown wire and not on the green wire, you need to replace the switch.
PS WD40 is not a good electrical cleaner. Use electrical contact cleaner if you do that.
The path is: 12v to the switch on a brown wire (after coming through the tail lamp fuse), then through the rheostat out to the instr lamp fuse on a green wire, then out to the dash lamps on a gray wire, through the bulbs to ground. So if you have a voltage on the instr lamp fuse to ground, the rheostat is good. The voltage measured will vary depending on the position of the rheostat if it's working. If you have voltage on the switch at the brown wire and not on the green wire, you need to replace the switch.
PS WD40 is not a good electrical cleaner. Use electrical contact cleaner if you do that.
Last edited by 65GGvert; May 12, 2013 at 06:09 AM.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 199
Likes: 1
Verify that your tail lights are working. If the tail light fuse blows, the voltage will not get to the dash lamp fuse. If you measure voltage on both sides of the inst lamps fuse, the light switch rheostat is good and the problem is in the dash wire or ground.
The path is: 12v to the switch on a brown wire (after coming through the tail lamp fuse), then through the rheostat out to the instr lamp fuse on a green wire, then out to the dash lamps on a gray wire, through the bulbs to ground. So if you have a voltage on the instr lamp fuse to ground, the rheostat is good. The voltage measured will vary depending on the position of the rheostat if it's working. If you have voltage on the switch at the brown wire and not on the green wire, you need to replace the switch.
PS WD40 is not a good electrical cleaner. Use electrical contact cleaner if you do that.
The path is: 12v to the switch on a brown wire (after coming through the tail lamp fuse), then through the rheostat out to the instr lamp fuse on a green wire, then out to the dash lamps on a gray wire, through the bulbs to ground. So if you have a voltage on the instr lamp fuse to ground, the rheostat is good. The voltage measured will vary depending on the position of the rheostat if it's working. If you have voltage on the switch at the brown wire and not on the green wire, you need to replace the switch.
PS WD40 is not a good electrical cleaner. Use electrical contact cleaner if you do that.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,167
Likes: 4,172
From: Kannapolis NC
I don't know if it's true, but I was told years ago that gm did this on purpose so you could tell if your taillight fuse blew. Glad you got it going without changing the switch.