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I adjusted my 30 30 cam 365 to .26 intake and exhaust as recommended cold . Re checked in between .24 and .26. My vacuum is 11 at 1000 rpm I believe it used to be 14 to 15. This will seem to affect the mechanical vacuum on my distributor. Should I reset the valves to .27 degrees. Thanks for any suggestions
I adjusted my 30 30 cam 365 to .26 intake and exhaust as recommended cold . Re checked in between .24 and .26. My vacuum is 11 at 1000 rpm I believe it used to be 14 to 15. This will seem to affect the mechanical vacuum on my distributor. Should I reset the valves to .27 degrees. Thanks for any suggestions
I would set them 30-30 cold. Where you set them will hurt your vacuum. Can't tell you how much as I never compared the two settings for vacuum. Just in how the engine performed.
The vacuum cannister used with that cam should be fully deployed at 8" vacuum. It starts to deploy somewhere around 3" vacuum.
It is called the 30-30 Duntov for a reason. These cams have very soft clearance ramps, adjusting the valves tighter than 0.030" puts the lifter on the ramp too soon. Idle vacuum does not have too much to do with the function of vacuum advance, as long as the engine idles.
From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
Low vacuum
That engine IS NOT known for making much vacuum at idle. The tighter you go on the valve adjustment the less vacuum you will have. The vacuum advance can that should be on that engine should pull in all the way at 8 inches of vacuum. If yours doesn't, then you probably have the wrong one. I think the proper one will have either 236 or B28 stamped in the arm right behind the can. If it says anything else, it's the wrong one.
Yes, that is pretty much what I intended to say, although a bit too brief, perhaps. What I meant about function is that, as we were taught in auto shop, vacuum advance is designed to enhance efficiency at cruising speeds. There is a big fat spring in the chamber that provides retard under low vacuum (engine accelerating) conditions. I have found that, in the case of high-performance smallblocks, the best vacuum curve is no vacuum curve. Lock the plate and tune the mechanical advance curve. High-performance smallblocks generally are mated to higher (numerically) rear-ends so vacuum advance becomes redundant.
Yes, that is pretty much what I intended to say, although a bit too brief, perhaps. What I meant about function is that, as we were taught in auto shop, vacuum advance is designed to enhance efficiency at cruising speeds. There is a big fat spring in the chamber that provides retard under low vacuum (engine accelerating) conditions. I have found that, in the case of high-performance smallblocks, the best vacuum curve is no vacuum curve. Lock the plate and tune the mechanical advance curve. High-performance smallblocks generally are mated to higher (numerically) rear-ends so vacuum advance becomes redundant.
vacuum advance when used is employed usually at idle and also cruise....it will increase idle speed as vacuum is at it's highest at idle and also at when you lift the throttle while backing down with the mill running and in gear (manual trans.).....to test one way is to dis connect the hose at idle, the mill should idle slower....faster when hooked up....if not using the vac. can, usually a different idle adjustment ( air) and speed (idle screw) is needed......
I adjusted my 30 30 cam 365 to .26 intake and exhaust as recommended cold . Re checked in between .24 and .26. My vacuum is 11 at 1000 rpm I believe it used to be 14 to 15. This will seem to affect the mechanical vacuum on my distributor. Should I reset the valves to .27 degrees. Thanks for any suggestions
I recall that my '65 L76 SHP engine with the 30-30 cam idled at about 8 or 9" Hg at 800 rpm. This is with valve lash at .030/.030" hot and with the vacuum can that is full in at 8" Hg. (Please don't use .27 lash - it's about 10 times too much, but is probably a typo. ) Usage of tighter lash such as .025", advocated by several on this forum, will reduce idle vacuum a bit and boost upper rpm performance a tiny bit - it's your choice, but I've followed the Chevy spec of .030-.030.
Yes, that is pretty much what I intended to say, although a bit too brief, perhaps. What I meant about function is that, as we were taught in auto shop, vacuum advance is designed to enhance efficiency at cruising speeds. There is a big fat spring in the chamber that provides retard under low vacuum (engine accelerating) conditions. I have found that, in the case of high-performance smallblocks, the best vacuum curve is no vacuum curve. Lock the plate and tune the mechanical advance curve. High-performance smallblocks generally are mated to higher (numerically) rear-ends so vacuum advance becomes redundant.
Not surprisingly, your auto shop teacher didn't understand vacuum advance either - read this:
I adjusted my 30 30 cam 365 to .26 intake and exhaust as recommended cold . Re checked in between .24 and .26. My vacuum is 11 at 1000 rpm I believe it used to be 14 to 15. This will seem to affect the mechanical vacuum on my distributor. Should I reset the valves to .27 degrees. Thanks for any suggestions
The "30-30" cam typically produces 9"-10" Hg. vacuum at 900-950 rpm; I doubt if yours ever produced 14"-15" Hg. if it's a real "30-30".
It is called the 30-30 Duntov for a reason. These cams have very soft clearance ramps, adjusting the valves tighter than 0.030" puts the lifter on the ramp too soon. Idle vacuum does not have too much to do with the function of vacuum advance, as long as the engine idles.
Just a clarification - the 30-30 cam is different from the "097" duntov cam. The "duntov" was used in 63 and earlier and the 30-30 was used in 64-65 and I believe the z-28 302 as well.
Also I went on the same journey adjusting the valves in my 64 L76 mill a whole back - you can read about it here:
or you can save yourself some time and I'll tell you the 30-30 setting improved my low end torque and general driveability. The previous owner of my car had it set much tighter and it was a kitten as far as low end power and takeoff pickup.
Tim
p.s. = what John Z said - 9-10" of vac is right on the button at idle for a 30-30 cam - mine measured right at 10" - some knucklehead before me put a vac can in from a Belair that needed 16" to pull in fully and I could not get mine to idle right until I got the correct can that pulls in fully at around 8" - If memory serves me it's a B26 or B28 can
Last edited by climbabout; Jul 8, 2013 at 09:25 PM.
(Please don't use .27 lash - it's about 10 times too much, but is probably a typo. ) Usage of tighter lash such as .025", advocated by several on this forum, will reduce idle vacuum a bit and boost upper rpm performance a tiny bit - it's your choice, but I've followed the Chevy spec of .030-.030.
Originally Posted by climbabout
or you can save yourself some time and I'll tell you the 30-30 setting improved my low end torque and general driveability. The previous owner of my car had it set much tighter and it was a kitten as far as low end power and takeoff pickup.
p.s. = what John Z said - 9-10" of vac is right on the button at idle for a 30-30 cam - mine measured right at 10" - some knucklehead before me put a vac can in from a Belair that needed 16" to pull in fully and I could not get mine to idle right until I got the correct can that pulls in fully at around 8" - If memory serves me it's a B26 or B28 can
Thanks for the article link. The pictures were very nice. The numbers were very interesting. The grievous errors dealing with flame propagation made reading it worthwhile and enjoyable.
Thanks for all the input.
I am re checking the valve . ( seems a bit tight ) adjust to .027 cold
MSD Ignition 8572 - MSD Billet & Pro-Billet Distributor .
Edelbrock Performer 600 cfm carb
The problem I am having is that when I slow down the car dies.
To get it started I have to place the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over
A number of times. I have seen the mechanical vacuum drop off as the engine is running.
I have 2 Medium springs in the distributary. Maybe I should change one to a light spring ?
Re set base timing from 8 deg 600 rpm to 10 deg 800 rpm
Cam is a comp cam replica of the 30 30 .
Thanks for all the input.
I am re checking the valve . ( seems a bit tight ) adjust to .027 cold
MSD Ignition 8572 - MSD Billet & Pro-Billet Distributor .
Edelbrock Performer 600 cfm carb
The problem I am having is that when I slow down the car dies.
To get it started I have to place the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over
A number of times. I have seen the mechanical vacuum drop off as the engine is running.
I have 2 Medium springs in the distributary. Maybe I should change one to a light spring ?
Re set base timing from 8 deg 600 rpm to 10 deg 800 rpm
Cam is a comp cam replica of the 30 30 .
If its the Comp Cams nostalgia cam, it has a tighter lobe separation angle of 112 degrees. I'd set the initial at about 15 degrees (limit max to 36 degrees though) versus the stock initial timing with the L76 of 12 degrees.
If its the Comp Cams nostalgia cam, it has a tighter lobe separation angle of 112 degrees. I'd set the initial at about 15 degrees (limit max to 36 degrees though) versus the stock initial timing with the L76 of 12 degrees.
Turned the motor over until the intake starts to open and adjust the exhaust at that point as it would then be on its base circle-
adjusted cold to .028 . Engine works great vacuumed 15 deg now.
The car really pulls well in all gears. When I get a chance I will re adjust and try .027 see if it makes any difference.
The other method did not work for me by indexing the motor by 90 degrees and adjusting it. Ended up way to tight . I must be missing something.
Thanks for all the help.
Last edited by Wayne1964; Jul 18, 2013 at 06:08 AM.
Reason: update