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Electrical problem- Help!!

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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:04 PM
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Default Electrical problem- Help!!

My 64 is a frame off restoration done by the previous owner. I've driven it to shows, & cruise nights for 5 years with no problems whatsoever.

Yesterday when I turned the key I heard the normal cranking sound only momentary and then everything went dead (except it looked like the second hand on the clock seemed to be wandering a few seconds forward and backward.) I was getting out to see if I had fully tightened my battery disconnect and the panel came back on. tried the radio and it was working fine so I double checked the disconnect (it was tight) and tried cranking up again.

This time no starter sound, but everything went dead again. 30 seconds later everything came back on just like before. I'm hoping it's just a bad ignition switch which looks original. BUT, the shut down-wait 30 seconds-power back on has me stumped. Is there a circuit breaker that would blow and then resets after a cool down ?

I'm hoping someone is familiar with this issue. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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Clean up the Firewall connector. Al W.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:22 PM
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Pay particular attention to the red wire in the firewall connections below the master cylinder. If that's not it, connect the cable directly to the battery, bypassing or removing the quick shutoff switch. The clock doesn't go through the ignition switch, so I think you can eliminate that.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 67vetteal
Clean up the Firewall connector. Al W.
Thanks Al but I'm not as experienced as you. Can you tell me where on the fire wall the connector is located and what does the wire connected to it look like? The frame off included a new wiring harness so it should all look as original.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Pay particular attention to the red wire in the firewall connections below the master cylinder. If that's not it, connect the cable directly to the battery, bypassing or removing the quick shutoff switch. The clock doesn't go through the ignition switch, so I think you can eliminate that.
Thanks, I'll go look at it right now.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Pay particular attention to the red wire in the firewall connections below the master cylinder. If that's not it, connect the cable directly to the battery, bypassing or removing the quick shutoff switch. The clock doesn't go through the ignition switch, so I think you can eliminate that.
OK, there is a small gauge red wire coming out of the firewall connecting to what looks like a about a 2 1/2" long ceramic resistor (which is bolted to the firewall) and then a red wire attached to the other side of the resistor which feeds into a larger branch of the wiring harness heading toward the passenger side. Both connections look like brand new BUT the posts they connect to on the resistor will both wiggle back and forth.

Do you think it's a bad ceramic resistor?
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:08 PM
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I think you are looking at the ballast resistor and that would not be what is causing your problem. Below the master cyclinder you will see two boxes ( one on right looking at firewall goes to headlights etc, the one on left is the one with the red wire. You have to carefully push the clips in on the sides of cover to remove.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jamo002
Thanks, I'll go look at it right now.
Oh, It's not a quick shut off switch. It's removed completely and reconnected with a screw down ****. I put it on just 2 years ago. However, I agree it needs to be double checked too.
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jamo002
Oh, It's not a quick shut off switch. It's removed completely and reconnected with a screw down ****. I put it on just 2 years ago. However, I agree it needs to be double checked too.
Ahhh, sounds like a "Green ****" battery cut off. Although I have never had issues with them, some here have had problems with corrosion building up in the connect points.

Try removing that device from your battery and connecting the battery cable to the battery directly, as the factory would have done it. See if that cures your problem.
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 07:58 AM
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Its the green screw down, as said above, remove it and put the cable directly on the battery and it should fix the problem. The cheaper ones are plastic and they strip out and cross thread.
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 10:17 AM
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Just hade the same issue on my 64. Remove and toss that green cut off switch,I had two go bad and drove me crazy. Wasted two hours Tuesday with the same issue.

Last edited by erb64; Aug 31, 2013 at 10:18 AM. Reason: Spelling
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