64 fuel injection problem
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Your query is about as informative as saying your sock is getting wet in your boot. What should I do?
Need a much better definition of the symptoms and the model # of your injection.
Need a much better definition of the symptoms and the model # of your injection.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
My 64 Vette has the original Fuel Injector system that came from the factory new.I was not aware there is more than one model.
The car was running very rough . The plugs were totally fouled and smoke out the exhaust.
After new plugs, wires, points and condenser it runs smooth but still smoking. Mechanic says it is running way to rich and likely a FI adjustment. However he is not familiar with the FI system.
Any help is appreciated.
The car was running very rough . The plugs were totally fouled and smoke out the exhaust.
After new plugs, wires, points and condenser it runs smooth but still smoking. Mechanic says it is running way to rich and likely a FI adjustment. However he is not familiar with the FI system.
Any help is appreciated.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,467
Likes: 8,943
From: northern california
C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
Significantly more information is needed to help you diagnose the rich condition.
Under what conditions does the engine run rich..... idle, cruise, wide open throttle, cold only, hot only, cold idle, hot idle, hot cruise, other?
How long has it been doing this? Did it just start running rich or has this been going on for years?
How was the FI unit air/fuel mixture adjusted when this was last done? Oldde fashioned manometer? Seat of the pants? Modern electronics?
What, if anything has your mechanic done to the unit in an attempt to cure the rich condition?
Who was the last person to rebuild the FI unit? Trust me.... it matters.
If you can provide detailed answers to all of these questions, I'll bet you will get back useful information which will lead to a solution.
Jim
Under what conditions does the engine run rich..... idle, cruise, wide open throttle, cold only, hot only, cold idle, hot idle, hot cruise, other?
How long has it been doing this? Did it just start running rich or has this been going on for years?
How was the FI unit air/fuel mixture adjusted when this was last done? Oldde fashioned manometer? Seat of the pants? Modern electronics?
What, if anything has your mechanic done to the unit in an attempt to cure the rich condition?
Who was the last person to rebuild the FI unit? Trust me.... it matters.
If you can provide detailed answers to all of these questions, I'll bet you will get back useful information which will lead to a solution.
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 9,556
Likes: 288
From: Granbury Texas
Bad Cranking Signal Valve! (dang I'm good) Throw it away and get an electric solenoid valve to replace it. It is to enrichen your mixture for starting, and ALL of the old rubber diaphragm valves are now bad, so getting an expensive "new" one won't fix your problem. When they go bad (leak) the engine goes full rich, as you are describing.
Note: this is my opinion, and others are free to disagree. I am NOT a FI expert, but I betcha this is the problem
Note: this is my opinion, and others are free to disagree. I am NOT a FI expert, but I betcha this is the problem
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Bad Cranking Signal Valve! (dang I'm good) Throw it away and get an electric solenoid valve to replace it. It is to enrichen your mixture for starting, and ALL of the old rubber diaphragm valves are now bad, so getting an expensive "new" one won't fix your problem. When they go bad (leak) the engine goes full rich, as you are describing.
Note: this is my opinion, and others are free to disagree. I am NOT a FI expert, but I betcha this is the problem
Note: this is my opinion, and others are free to disagree. I am NOT a FI expert, but I betcha this is the problem
Could be all he needs to know if he has a 7375R unit. If he has a 7380 unit, it doesn't apply.
That's why I and Jim said there's a lot of info lacking to even take a wild guess as to what's wrong unless you cover EVERYTHING for both units. I know very little compared to many but far too lazy to try and second guess what unit the OP has and type out fixes.
There are good replacement cranking signal valves available, by the way. I've only ever had one go bad in 50 years of intermittent use and it was only a couple years old.
Last edited by MikeM; Sep 4, 2013 at 06:51 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,747
Likes: 192
From: nj
model # as requested by above posters is important because there were two versions, if I recall correctly, in 64. the model number is on the metal tag affixed to the left side of the plenum along with a serial #.
pictures would be helpful
You came to the right place, excellent FI gurus are fielding your questions.
pictures would be helpful
You came to the right place, excellent FI gurus are fielding your questions.