Is there a thread on adjusting door alignment? I'm getting tired of slamming my door. Even then the creases are off a bit.

TIA

 

The "Body" section of the Corvette Shop Manual (or Chassis Service Manual, depending on what year you have) covers the door adjustment procedure in detail.

 

As is always the case JohnZ has given the best advice for you. I'll add that Roadster's are a lot easier than Coupe's when it comes to alignment of doors. Sounds to me like you Door Hinge Bushings need changing. Usual culprit is the upper Hinge. If your lifting up on the door to get a smooth closing the Pins and Bushings are a great startingpoint. Use the Search function on this Forum. Al W.

 

If the door seal is old and hard the door will be hard to close .

Bill

 

Sloppy door rivets caused me a lot of grief with door alignment when I first got my coupe. I drilled them all out and replaced them with flat-head bolts. Fixed my rattling problem and alignment issues.

 

I've spent the last 2 hours reading up on replacing rivets, bushings and shims/door alignment. Getting ready to open door a crack and look at the hinges while lifting up on door. I'll report back on what I see. Sounds like a PIA...Thanks for heading me in the right direction. PS. all seals are new.

John

 

If the seals are new then I assume the paint may be newer also. I would be careful slamming the door. Urethane paints are a lot less brittle than old lacquer paints but slamming can still crack paint around the door handle and do some damage.

If the door does not exhibit up and down looseness at the hinges or in/out movement at the front where the inner door reinforcement is riveted - then you need to pull the striker assembly off of the pillar and the door panel and just start adjusting. Probably the easiest way is to tape the surfaces of the sill and the lower edge of the door with two layers of masking tape - shut the door - loosen all of the hinge bolts in the door - and lift and shim it with something like popcycle or paint stir sticks at the bottom until it is aligned at the body lines and roof line. You may need to put a couple strips of masking tape across the roof and top of the door to hold it closed whicle adjusting. Make sure the gaps front and rear are even with possibly just a bit more at the front so that it doesn't hit when opening. Then tighten the bolts (crawl in and out the other side). Position the striker to where it engages properly when slowly closing the door while holding the button in. The striker is designed to very, very slightly lift the rear of the door as it engages. Put masking tape on the painted surfaces around the striker when it's close to in position and then you have a reference to make small adjustments by.

The new seals on a coupe may prevent the doors from closing easily into a flush posiiton. If so, adjust the striker out enough to where the door closes with a firm action but not slamming. Once a month - as the weatherstrip compresses and sets - move the striker in about 1/16 inch - wait another 30 days and repeat. It may take 6 months but eventually the weatherstrip will conform and the doors will shut easily.

Good luck

 

Unfortunately, both doors have a little play. Much as I read about rivets I still don't know where they are. Its not that much so I'm not going to worry about it until winter. Thanks guys!

 

Good news! My rivets are tight and looking good as in maybe replaced at one point. Its the upper bushing on the drivers side and the lower one on the passenger side that are making my beltline 1/4" off. Maybe I can add a shim to each bottom hinge until I'm ready for a repaint sometime in the not to distant future (I've been looking for a reasonable estimate). I may just need a good detailing but that is for another thread.

 

If the bushings are worn out shims will not help. They only adjust in and out of the door to the body. But, you may be able to do some adjusting of the hinge to compensate for the bushing wear that will hold you for awhile unitl you can replace the bushings. If the front of the door is lining up at the body line and top of the fender - then you loosen one hinge or the other in the door. Depending on the gaps front and rear you can pick the one best to adjust - probably take too long to explain here. If you look at it and think of the geometry of rotating the door around the one hinge you are leaving tight it will make sense. Then shift the door laterally on the hinge to raise the back of the door and re-tighten the bolts.

 

Am I taking the door panel off or the kick panel? Haven't gotten to this yet as I'm still dealing with minor mechanical issues ie. tail shaft seal, u jounts, valve cover gaskets, etc.

Thanks!
John